What are symptoms of fried DP34?

[aklarvanto]

Hello,

I purchsed used DP34 from guy on ebay and I was installing it today. Here is what is going on. I have two separated antennas, planning to add third for 129w. However with these two dish antennas pointed to 119 and 110 I did following:

I run RG6 single cable from DP dual output LNBs to 301 to aim dish and test. Separately got signal from both satellites and after veryfing levels, disconnected cables from 301, run check switch to reset receiver, added DP34 into line. Connected 119 to input one and 110 to input 2.

Connected to 301 and run check switch and found DP34 but satellites only 119 and no sign of 110. Then I changed LNB connectors to other output (just in case it makes difference) and run test again. No luck. Then I connected 110 to input 3 and it worked fine (now input 2 is empty) now both satellites where found but no picture.

I added second receiver to power up switch but no difference. Same results. So here is my question: Are these symptoms of fried switch since later my second receiver got picture about couple minutes and then died also and no signal levels shown and input 2 does not work at all?

I'm back with my SW64 and legacy LNBs and looking forward for some information if I should not try again and just dump that DP34 and purchase new from store.

 

[dishstaller]

If you have dhpp simply call Dish and they'll replace it for free, if you don't have dhpp then add it then take it off after you get your new switch.

 

[Claude Greiner]

The problem is your not a technician and have access to multiple parts so you can isolate the problem. There are several signs that a switch is bad like not reconizing satellites, not running check switch Etc.

The best way to test a switch to see if its bad is to either swap the LNB's with new ones, or swap the switch to one that is brand new.

Generally speaking if the switch is nice and shiny and has been indoors they don't go bad. The ones that do go bad are usually due to water getting inside of it.

 

[Smith P.]

Use ohmmeter, all inputs/outputs should show ~2 kohm resistance for start.

 

[aklarvanto]

Thanks fore info,

Second day testing. Today I found inputs 2 and 3 worked when used to send signal to output ports 1, 3 and 4. Other are dead. I think there is moisture inside because at one point switch was making hissing sound, like electric sparking sound inside. I think it is dead...

So testing with meter is done how? Put positive to input or output and ground where... to test ohms? I have DC ma, DCV, ACV tester so maybe I can use that?

 

[Smith P.]

Positive to input, you'll need ohm meter; looks as a common falure - protecting [Zener] diode gone, its connected to each line in/out. Try to open it, after disconnecting all coaxes.

 

[Stargazer]

I have ran across DP-34 receiver output ports going bad before. The switch is powered through port 1 to power the other ports. If no powered receiver is connected to port 1 then the other ports may not work. After the issues I had in the past I kept mine inside before going with the 1000 DPP solution that allowed me to use seperators for the dual tuner receivers. By having the switches in the house it actually resulted in me needing to run fewer wires. I was able to run three wires inside the house then cascade the switches from there.

 

[jpmarto]

If you determine you've got a bad switch, I've got a DP-34 cluttering up my workbench. You can have it for the shipping cost.

I see you're in Wasilla. Can you really see Russia from your place?