What TP to use for Sat 97 IA5

[jsattv]

Been trying to set up for Sat 97 and had a really strong 12115 and 12122 TP frequencies yet couldn't capture any channels. Is there a specific Tp I need to look or set up for on this 97 bird?

Also when moving fortec dish to find other Satellites ie. 99, 61.5 or 148, how do you know what Tp's to calibrate to?

 

[sunelec]

I live in southeast michigan and just finished setting up a new FTA motorized system as a first timer. I found the best signal strength for IA5 on these tp's. 11836, 12090, 12115 and12177. These all had a signal strength of 80. Most of the other transponders, including the ones you mentioned, also came in for me with a signal level of about 68 to 70 which is still enough. I was able to get all the channels pretty much across the board. Make sure your dish is peaked. Also make sure that you have the correct frequency selected for your antenna setting per the lnb you are using. This was screwing me up for a while. I think All the standard linear LNB's have a freq. setting of 10750. If you go to lyngsat on their internet site you can see all the satellites and their charts of tp's. Try to pick out ones that you think are active. Once I had my dish arc established I was able to to memorize all the satellites using this method. Be careful because not all of the KU satellites are linear so you may not be able to get them all. All the echostar are circular lnb except echo 9 which is linear. An H or a V for polarity is linear and an R or L signifies circular. I have a linear lnb and I was able receive some of the echostar circular tp signals so I could locate the the satellite. These signals were only about 50% strength though and were not usable. I found that with my sg2100 motor and my receiver, that 5 clicks of the satellite positioning button was equal to about 1 degree of latitude. So that means that from IA5(97) to AM4(101) was 4 x 5 = 20 clicks. It may not be quite the same for you but should be close.

 

[jsattv]

I live in southeast michigan and just finished setting up a new FTA motorized system as a first timer. I found the best signal strength for IA5 on these tp's. 11836, 12090, 12115 and12177. These all had a signal strength of 80. Most of the other transponders, including the ones you mentioned, also came in for me with a signal level of about 68 to 70 which is still enough. I was able to get all the channels pretty much across the board. Make sure your dish is peaked. Also make sure that you have the correct frequency selected for your antenna setting per the lnb you are using. This was screwing me up for a while. I think All the standard linear LNB's have a freq. setting of 10750. If you go to lyngsat on their internet site you can see all the satellites and their charts of tp's. Try to pick out ones that you think are active. Once I had my dish arc established I was able to to memorize all the satellites using this method. Be careful because not all of the KU satellites are linear so you may not be able to get them all. All the echostar are circular lnb except echo 9 which is linear. An H or a V for polarity is linear and an R or L signifies circular. I have a linear lnb and I was able receive some of the echostar circular tp signals so I could locate the the satellite. These signals were only about 50% strength though and were not usable. I found that with my sg2100 motor and my receiver, that 5 clicks of the satellite positioning button was equal to about 1 degree of latitude. So that means that from IA5(97) to AM4(101) was 4 x 5 = 20 clicks. It may not be quite the same for you but should be close.

Thanks for the reply. I also just found out from Iceberg that the SW-21 switch I was running the Invacom L and C outputs thru right at the dish may have been my problem. In Winnipeg here IA5 97 is just 0.3 degrees from due South for me so as you mentioned it shouldn't be that hard to find. Now I'm wondering if I should still trade up my SG2100 motor tomorrow for the Stab HH120 which the dealer says is part of the problem? I did find that the 1 meter Fortec Dish did appear to struggle with the SG2100 so I'll probably get the HH120 for the extra $60.00. Its great to have help from you guys.

 

[Anole]

sg2100 bashing

Now I'm wondering if I should still trade up my SG2100 motor tomorrow for the Stab HH120 which the dealer says is part of the problem? I did find that the 1 meter Fortec Dish did appear to struggle with the SG2100 so I'll probably get the HH120 for the extra $60.00.

This may be off topic for this thread, but I just don't understand the love everyone lavishes on this 2100 motor.
If you have a 30" dish, I guess it might be just -adequate-.
Maybe people like it because it's cheap...?
I bought the HH90 motor for my 36" dish, and never considered the toy 2100 and its plastic gears, with any seriousness.
And, I found them to sell for about the same price.

If you are swinging around a 1m dish, I guess the HH90 is technically a bit too small (I'll leave it to the experts to comment).
But the HH120 is supposed to handle up to a 4 foot dish, so I'm sure it's very conservative for the job.


edit: here is the OPs previous thread, with more info and pictures of his setup.
wow, those are great pictures, and it looks like a fine install!
You might also want to mount the new switch upright, with drip-loops and possibly with a weather cover, considering the climate.

 

[jsattv]

Thanks for the great comments. I'll get the Stab HH120 motor tomorrow. We were snowed in today so don't know when I will be able to get back up on the roof. I will also get the 22khz tone switch. Could someone please let me know what a drip - loop is?

 

[updatelee]

my sg2100 drives a 1m winegard, now how well depends on the ird

vp-1020 was pathetic, the dish moved at a snails pace, it was a sad sight.
dreambox 7000 moved it fine, it was slow, but it did the job
coolsat 5000 moved it without effort left and right
fortec mercury II, I had no idea that motor could turn that fast !!!

 

[Anole]

Thanks for the great comments.
I'll get the Stab HH120 motor tomorrow.
I will also get the 22khz tone switch.
Could someone please let me know what a drip - loop is?

I believe you've made some wise decisions.
The motor should last a lifetime.
Though, there is a new HH-100 that I'm not famaliar with which might be sufficient.

If 22khz switches are readily supported, then they may be more robust and trustworthy than the cheapie diseqc models.
The QPH-031 seems to not be a Universal, and it looks like both sorts of switchs are recommended.
Of course, I'm no expert - get some confirmation on the switch question.

As for the drip loop, I suspect if you search, you'll find all you ever wanted to know in the Dish Satellite forum, where good installers put the proper curves and kinks in the cable, and the bad ones don't.
You'll likely find lots of pictures of good vs poor installs, with reference to outdoor switches, protective covers, and cable placement.