Wiring diagram for Chaparral Bulleye II

[N2bnfunn]

Hello I am looking to switch from my corotor II to Chaparral Bulleye II and could someone post a few wiring diagrams, I see after reading a few posting on this, the most common problem
is to get both V and H working. Could someone explain how that works.

 

[Magic Static]

I use a powered 4x8 multi-switch. I prefer the WNC-SW48.


The problem is that most single polarity LNBs require a min 15v and when looking at Vertical transponders the digital receiver only puts out 13v. So we modify the multi-switch to feed the vertical LNBs with more voltage. A member here, Pendragon provided us with a simple way to do that mod. And this is why I like that particular switch. It has removable covers


You treat this setup like a C/Ku combo lnbf with internal 22k switch

 

[stogie5150]

^^^^^^^What he said.^^^^^^^^^

 

[N2bnfunn]

Ok Thanks for the digram

 

[Cham]

Where does one find a WNC-SW48, google comes up empty. Kind of thinking of using one of these feedhorns as well since I have a few C-band LNBs hanging around, would only need the feedhorn, switch, and one Ku LNB. Haven't yet run across a Bullseye II, mostly find the C-band only units or corotors from the dish assemblies I've managed to scavange before landing in the scrap yard.

 

[primestar31]

Where does one find a WNC-SW48, google comes up empty. Kind of thinking of using one of these feedhorns as well since I have a few C-band LNBs hanging around, would only need the feedhorn, switch, and one Ku LNB. Haven't yet run across a Bullseye II, mostly find the C-band only units or corotors from the dish assemblies I've managed to scavange before landing in the scrap yard.

They are all over Ebay now and again. If you don't see any, wait a few days and keep checking. They get runs on them now and again. They are discontinued, so you have to look around for them. I bought 3 of them. One I am using, and two for backups. I recommend you also buy at least two.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NIB-WNC-4-x...lite_Signal_Multiswitches&hash=item35c12c559d

http://www.ebay.com/itm/DIRECTV-4X8...pt=US_Splitters_Combiners&hash=item416c86ff6b

http://www.ebay.com/itm/DIRECTV-4X8...pt=US_Splitters_Combiners&hash=item589607df80



http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000MCLXWK/?tag=satell01-20

INSIST on the WNC model, as you do NOT want the Zinwell! Zinwell has an issue with certain frequencies from what I've read, and I personally know a person at another site that had to switch from a Zinwell to a WNC and it fixed his issue.

Here's the post showing the mod: http://www.satelliteguys.us/showthread.php?t=174802

Here's where I bought the feedhorn: http://gofastmotorsports.com/rickssatellitefeedhorns.htm It's the 3rd one down the page, $62 plus shipping. Cheapest I found it anywhere and he had it in stock: Dual C-Band Feed # 11-1329-1

Rick treated me right, so don't let anybody here give you any guff about him.

 

[Anole]

That's a good price for the C-band-only feed.
But didn't the OP ask for dual-band?
Those are much more $pendy.

Some time ago, in an ortho thread, Pendragon gave performance info for both.
The C-only did better on C-band.
If it's more important to get both bands on one dish, and you had a LARGE & High Performance BUD, the dual-band feed might be a wise choice.
That implies for a medeocre BUD, you may want the cheaper C-only feed.
Look up the threads and read for yourself.

 

[primestar31]

Well, if so, those dual band ones go for $350+ if you can even find one. I think it's cheaper to have two separate dishes. One for c-band, and one for KU.

 

[truckracer]

Anytime you tune a big dish for both c and ku I have found it is a compromise on both bands.
Since the nature of our hobby includes hard to receive feeds and fringe footprints, I think it is best to use seperate dishes for c and ku. Dedicated c and ku band motorized dishes will be the very best.

 

[Magic Static]

This hobby is all about compromising. I think the "very best" is a dedicated dish for each satellite, Ku and Cband. If I had the space like some folks do, I would have thirty plus dishes up. But I live on a small lot in town and have considerations for keeping the place from looking crazy. I do have a motorized 1 meter KU dish with an Invacom LNBF. It's been fun seeing which dish can be tuned the best. So far I get better signal on my KU football feeds with the Bullseye on the 10' dish. It's been my belief that the Ku dish should be better at it, but I'm unable to prove it to myself yet. Of course if everything went together perfectly ther wouldn't be a lot of fun in this hobby for me. I like to tinker with stuff and I found with this hobby, you can tinker with stuff forever Good thing AndersenINC is a couple hundred miles from here. I keep thinking about a 3.8m they manufacture I suppose no matter how good it works there is something always a little better. (yea a 30 footer )

 

[Cham]

Thanks for the info on the multi-switch Primestar!
I am starting to think it would be wiser to keep my Ku on a seperate dish as it is now. Maybe I'll consider upgrading from the LNBF though to the C-band ortho on the 10' dish since I have LNBs available... Might set up a dual LNBF on the Ku though to it is also available on both receivers... now which receiver to run the diseqc motor... The Bullesys II is rather pricy and if the c-band reception isn't going to improve much maybe (to me) it isn't worth it.

Guess it's a common disease we have... never being satisfied with our systems as they are... must improve...

 

[N2bnfunn]

I have a question I am going to install my Bulleye II this coming weekend my dish has a .36 F/d, in the bull eye manual it says; For dishes of f/D
less than .36, push the scalar rings all the way back to the stop on the hub. lf your dish has an f/D of more than .36, set the scalar rings flush
with the C-band horn, since mine is 36 I just went mounting the feed horn to the ring I just have the bull eye feed horn even with the scalar ring? and don't worry about the f/d setting
on the scalar is that what they mean?

 

[Magic Static]

The scalar position isn't as important as the focal length. Set the focal length and see where the scalar ends up. You may end up repositioning the arms a bit or spacing out the scalar ring to get optimal position/performance. I noticed old style feed horns have fixed scalars on them and are found on any F/D ratio dish. This demonstrates to me that scalar position isn't that crucial.

 

[N2bnfunn]

Ok I understand what you are saying, so my next question would be so why did they say in the manual, just a little confused.

 

[Magic Static]

I think the scalar's main focus is reducing background noise. Chaparral has a scale for setting the scalar for different F/D ratios.
read this page http://www.chaparral.net/troubleshooting/feedhorn-troubleshooting-guide/ and this may help you understand more on this subject.

 

[Magic Static]

I have two Bullseye II feeds in use. One is on a Winegard Pinnacle that has a F/D of .28 . Using the scale found at Chaparral, the feed should stick past the scalar 1.52". The Bullseye won't do that, so I carved mine up so it will. If you want to get crazy.....

 

[N2bnfunn]

Well I finally got around to putting up my Bulleye II the first thing I did was to take the button hook off of my Orbitron SX-10 and put a quad legs on it, next I installed the bulleye II. The first thing I notice is the instruction that come with the Bulleye II is WRONG, for the Ku they H and V backwards, next thing I found out if you use a high end LNB like Norsat 3220 or a Norsat 1106HAF for the KU side, there is NO difference in the signal if you just run 13v to the V side and 18 to the H side, I did it both ways to see if the signal was any different, when I was not using the high end LNB's, when I tired using it with a cheaper LNB there was a difference in the signal when using 13v to the V side compare to using 18v to the v side.

The bulleye II works GREAT I have no power inserted just straight from the AZBOX HD box and it switch from KU to C to H to V with no problem and I am able to get a much stronger signal then I had before.

 

[Magic Static]

View attachment 83251Well I finally got around to putting up my Bulleye II the first thing I did was to take the button hook off of my Orbitron SX-10 and put a quad legs on it, next I installed the bulleye II. The first thing I notice is the instruction that come with the Bulleye II is WRONG, for the Ku they H and V backwards, next thing I found out if you use a high end LNB like Norsat 3220 or a Norsat 1106HAF for the KU side, there is NO difference in the signal if you just run 13v to the V side and 18 to the H side, I did it both ways to see if the signal was any different, when I was not using the high end LNB's, when I tired using it with a cheaper LNB there was a difference in the signal when using 13v to the V side compare to using 18v to the v side.

The bulleye II works GREAT I have no power inserted just straight from the AZBOX HD box and it switch from KU to C to H to V with no problem and I am able to get a much stronger signal then I had before.

Nice! Glad you got it going. I did notice the mistake in the manual. I commented on that when I uploaded the manual to SatGuys.

 

[N2bnfunn]

Thanks I can now get sky Mexico...