10' CM Perf on AJAK H180

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The AJAK (WAS) made in the USA, and not so easy to find on this side of the pond ;) . They are very desirable and I'm sure there is a long list of wannabe owners. I can't imagine the cost of shipping one to Latvia. Just the mount is 30 kilos, with a dish ring it could be 60 k or more. :eek:
 
Maybe you can lower the voltage coming out of the Vbox with a rheostat to slow down the motor a bit so it doesn't overshoot... If it works with the rheostat, you can do a more elegant solution later with a voltage regulator swap inside the Vbox, or changing a bias resistor so it outputs a lower voltage...
 
I have some ideas how to ship it for free, but that could take lots of time, I am not in hurry.

would like to hear those ideas.

The AJAK (WAS) made in the USA, and not so easy to find on this side of the pond ;) . They are very desirable and I'm sure there is a long list of wannabe owners. I can't imagine the cost of shipping one to Latvia. Just the mount is 30 kilos, with a dish ring it could be 60 k or more. :eek:
is that what they weight ...... i know holding one for 4 steps up the ladder putting on a pole has me gasping for air
 
Maybe you can lower the voltage coming out of the Vbox with a rheostat to slow down the motor a bit so it doesn't overshoot... If it works with the rheostat, you can do a more elegant solution later with a voltage regulator swap inside the Vbox, or changing a bias resistor so it outputs a lower voltage...
Or I can go with my original plan and get an ASC1 positioner :)
 
Installed and testing. Programmed in @ 20 counts per revolution/degree. Looks good on the scope :) I'll watch it a while and see how it does.
:):) Ringing the magnets is the perfect solution. The 10 magnet wheel with two switches is operating flawlessly. Focusing the magnetic fields allows me to almost double the number of magnets on the wheel. I employed the technique with a 16 magnet wheel and that worked great. So now I have 3 working sensor setups. A basic 10 count like the stock sensor which is probably the highest resolution sensor that was available for your C-Band dish. A 20 count sensor which doubles the resolution. The down side to this sensor is the limited counts provided by the VBox. I can only cover 100° of dish movement. The stock sensor would give you 200° of dish travel, which is way more than needed in most cases. So I revisited the 16 count wheel. With the focused magnets the 16 count wheel is perfect. And gives you 125° degrees of travel with the VBox. So now I have a sensor for every dish I could put on the AJAK depending on the accuracy needed. :) This turned out so well I'm thinking about a VonWeis linear actuator I have, and what I might do to improve the resolution on that sensor :)
 
I’ve been toying with the VBoxes and the AJAK. It occurredto me there is a very unique feature available on a VBox with a 10 count AJAKsensor. When you reset the VBOX it goes to count “1000” which isin the middle of its 2000 count range. It displays this as “ 000. “ with theperiod indicating a count over 1000. So if you do a reset at100°0W, then your counter display will be in sync with the orbital positionnumbers. For example, 101.0°W would display as 010. On the VBox. The Canadiansat 107.3°W would display as 073., 97.0°W would be 970 , 99W = 990, 61.5W= 615 125W = 250. And so on JBecause the Earth is not a perfect sphere there will be some irregularities inthe count but close enough for a person to tell where the dish is aimed bylooking at the positioner numbers.

To reset the positioner to 100.0°W, first move to 101.0W andperform a reset, then move 10 clicks to the east and perform another reset. Youare now set at 100.0W with the display showing 000. Move ten clickswest and you are watching 101.0W and store the position….rinse and repeat J
 
I’ve been toying with the VBoxes and the AJAK. It occurredto me there is a very unique feature available on a VBox with a 10 count AJAKsensor. When you reset the VBOX it goes to count “1000” which isin the middle of its 2000 count range. It displays this as “ 000. “ with theperiod indicating a count over 1000. So if you do a reset at100°0W, then your counter display will be in sync with the orbital positionnumbers. For example, 101.0°W would display as 010. On the VBox. The Canadiansat 107.3°W would display as 073., 97.0°W would be 970 , 99W = 990, 61.5W= 615 125W = 250. And so on JBecause the Earth is not a perfect sphere there will be some irregularities inthe count but close enough for a person to tell where the dish is aimed bylooking at the positioner numbers.


To reset the positioner to 100.0°W, first move to 101.0W andperform a reset, then move 10 clicks to the east and perform another reset. Youare now set at 100.0W with the display showing 000. Move ten clickswest and you are watching 101.0W and store the position….rinse and repeat J

That's pretty cool!
 
Hi! Got Fortec Star 1,6m offset with Jaeger 1224 from e-bay. Winning price was 100 GBP (about 170 USD). Heavy stuff, and still needs to be shipped from my friend's place in UK to my home. y9yvete9.jpgana6a9um.jpgy9atumem.jpg
 
Hi! Got Fortec Star 1,6m offset with Jaeger 1224 from e-bay. Winning price was 100 GBP (about 170 USD). Heavy stuff, and still needs to be shipped from my friend's place in UK to my home.View attachment 96360View attachment 96361View attachment 96362

Nice! Just a suggestion, but you are going to want to check all the screws on that Jaeger HH drive. Perhaps do something to counterweight the dish. I hear that the Jaegers will tear apart if you have any real wind load because it's all plastic. Or perhaps you can mount the dish where it's protected from the wind, yet can still see your sats?
 
I am not sure I will ship this heavy dish at all, it is too heavy and could coast more money than dish coasts. For sure, when I get motor on hands will check everything and change crews if there i need for that. I have very light 1,4m plastic dish, perhaps they (dish and Jaeger) can make perfect match.
 
Yesterday, with great help from my friend, started works on renovation of Jaeger 1224. Some bolts were so rusted and stuck inside aluminum that only way to remove them was drilling. Everything what is inside the motor is in pretty good shape, in working condition. I hope that someday I will have Jaeger and couple of Ajak motors side by side to do some comparison tests.
BTW, there is one brand new (I mean old but not used, packed in original box) Jaeger 1224 for SALE
 

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Got Ajak motor last night from e-bay. Somebody raised price at the very lasts moments of auction. Just wondering was my competitor from this forum? So, I payed 130 $, which, I think is good price for such a beast. :)
 

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I know there's an Ajak near me. I haven't seen it in about 10 yrs. They say it's hidden 'in storage, unused', but can't talk the owner 'out of it'.
 
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