Elevation Actuator - New Actuator(s) Part II

pacificrim

SatelliteGuys Pro
Original poster
Oct 5, 2008
1,199
1,117
West Coast Canada
I took another stroll through Windynation and purchased a 6.25" 12v linear actuator with a 2" extension and momentary DPDT switch to add remote elevation adjustment.
It's AWESOME for tweaking those pesky Ku TPs that just need a little bump up or down.
I ran 100ft of direct burial CAT5 and used a 12v 2.67A power supply to power it. Taadaa! IMG_20210311_0945271.jpgIMG_20210311_0945382.jpg
 
If you have to adjust the inclination it is a sign that your dish isn't tracked properly. There is no need for this motor.
Yes, that or the last storm thrashed the LNBF in its holder and it got jostled just a tiny bit. Either way it is instantly adjusted for. Adjustment or arc correction might come at a later time. I just wanted to adjust for any of these minor things.
 
If you have to adjust the inclination it is a sign that your dish isn't tracked properly. There is no need for this motor.
Not is NOT SO... At one time that was so.. but with the VERY WEAK TP and the S2 on difference satellite sometimes you need a half of turn on your elevation or down to get them.
 
Ya, I've spent hours adjusting and aligning things but with a dual C/Ku setup the compromise between those signals is part of it. Also, I've seen declining signal changes on my meter as I'm tightening the LNBF nuts and not be able to lockdown my peak signal.There are lots of reasons things just need a bump.
The bonus is that now it looks like I can track incoming missiles
 
I've seen and noticed the additional actuator offered for some dishes and kind of grasp the need.
I put a ku lnbf on my 12 footer along side my c band. I get a 6 degree offset from ku/c band.
Honestly I almost never watch ku at all. But.....
My dish is tightly focused and summer versus winter declination does seem to change. If I raise the dish rim in the fall (I think) I can get a little better signal. In the summer it's dead nuts.
But as I understand it there are ku sats that are above/below (?) the Clarke belt and really need the actuator if you have a steerable dish. Which ones are they?
 
If you have to adjust the inclination it is a sign that your dish isn't tracked properly. There is no need for this motor.
my understanding is that a polar mount with only one axis (so, like what most of us have), can only approximately track the arc as we are tracking a ring from an elevated position that is not centered in that ring. It's good enough in most cases, especially in C-Band with medium-size dishes, but I think the error in tracking starts being noticeable in Ku-band toward the ends of the arc - but then there are many other factors that make such reception difficult (obstacles, increased atmospheric attenuation etc.

I remember installing a 24-foot Orbitron, about 25 years ago, and I'm pretty sure it came with a declination motor as standard feature. The negative side effect is that it was tempting to be a bit sloppy with the alignment since the declination motor could compensate the imperfection...
 
my understanding is that a polar mount with only one axis (so, like what most of us have), can only approximately track the arc as we are tracking a ring from an elevated position that is not centered in that ring.

100% correct is not possible, indeed.

When using the so-called modified motor angles, the pointing error is reduced to some hundredths of a degree.
In fact, here I calculated a difference of 0.04 degrees (though I didn't test overall pointing error of the modified angles, but something else, there; but I think that error will be in the same range):

(The modified angles mean a forward axis tilt of about 0.6 degrees at our latitudes, and a corresponding correction of the declination offset angle of the dish; as opposed to the 'traditional motor angles'.)

Using USALS, it might also be an idea to enter the modified latitude value in your receiver.
That would bring an advantage of maximum 0.07 degrees (so about 1 USALS angle-unit):
see USALS Notebook

(I've never tested if the USALS calculations normally truncate the resulting angle, or that they do a proper rounding; when I make a diseqc-reader, that would be one of the first things that I would want to check; out of curiousity.)

Greetz,
A33
 
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The only one I see is 139W but there are a few over the Atlantic. 37.5W NSS 10, 24.5W Intelsat 905, 20.0W NSS 7 (inc. 4.8°), 5.0W Eutelsat 5 West A
 
Also try Intelsat 21
I'm getting this one perfect. In my area it's just over the "dish flop" zone (using a chunk of garage door spring and cable to pull back the dish....shes a heavy one!).
If I push or pull the rim just a touch, signal decreases. If I'm real brave I can go out to 47.4W.
 
Question so how many TP's are you getting on Intelsat 21? you said you are pushing up and down to view the signal that works when you are peaking the dish.. Trying the TP's that you are NOT getting then trying raise and lowering the dish to see if any of them come in..
 
Question so how many TP's are you getting on Intelsat 21? you said you are pushing up and down to view the signal that works when you are peaking the dish.. Trying the TP's that you are NOT getting then trying raise and lowering the dish to see if any of them come in..
Whoutalkin'to? Lol.
If it's me, my dish is tuned as tight as it ever will be. I have no issues with tracking in the arc I can view at all.
In other words. An additional "tweaker" actuator is not needed at all. This is band.
For the content available I don't even watch ku sats.
 
Whoutalkin'to? Lol.
If it's me, my dish is tuned as tight as it ever will be. I have no issues with tracking in the arc I can view at all.
In other words. An additional "tweaker" actuator is not needed at all. This is band.
For the content available I don't even watch ku sats.
The whole point of this add-on was to improve Ku on out-of-footprint and weak transponders on an already accurate dual C/Ku setup. If you are not interested in Ku feeds, then this is not for you.