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Throw a couple pails of water on it, and test out that theory...
Its been raining for 4 days. As soon as it lets up, I'll check it again. Should be plenty wet now.

The ground is really rocky here so it dries out fast. I picked up an all copper 8 foot ground rod. Not sure how far I can get it in the ground.
 
What are the voltages measured at the LNBF? Also useful to know the current draw of the LNBF and the available current provided by the switch.

Does the polarity switch? Confirm with a spectrum display?
I can't do the spectrum display right now, it's out on loan. The polarity does switch. This LNBF, like all my others are Dual Output Titanium's.

Only one port is used. However, this is the second LNBF I've had on this dish, same problem.

I have a standby dish that's aimed at 113W, and this LNBF was taken off it and switched out with the one that was on the problem dish and it's working fine on 113W.

I haven't measured the current at the switch, or the current draw with the LNBF in operation.

As I mentioned earlier, I swapped ports on the switch and the problem follows it and whatever dish I swap ports with works fine on port 3.

Doing any further diagnostics is on hold right now since I've had vertigo problems for a few days. I do appreciate the help and any advice you might offer.
 
All high quality copper? Or just CCS (copper cladded steel)?
I've had a motor setup on CCS, with the motor not functioning properly. It was OK with one receiver, but not OK with another...
The CCS cable was the cause....

When a cable advertises with quad shield, that is often to hide the fact that it is a non pure Cu cable, which would be a far more important spec to advertise with, IMHO.
Maybe the cause could be your cable(s)?

(Just trying to understand your problem......)

Greetz,
A33

Edited: typo's corrected.
The cable is an all copper core made by Belden. It's the same cable Time-Warner uses for cable internet installs.

I got away from copper clad cable several years ago, but I still use it once in a while for video transport on surveillance cameras and OTA television.

This dish is 30 feet from the switch, so length isn't the problem. This is the 3rd feed line I've had on this dish.

It's incredibly odd that all this started when we had 70mph wind gusts on 4/1 that not only knocked this dish off track, but also took part of our roof off.

I checked it for warp, focal distance, offset and elevation, and the pole isn't bent. No one else I've talked to has seen this problem either. :)
 
The ground is really rocky here so it dries out fast. I picked up an all copper 8 foot ground rod. Not sure how far I can get it in the ground.
IF you pound a new ground rod into the ground by the dish, it MUST be bonded to your house ground rod by your power panel per NEC code. Otherwise it's almost guaranteed to cause problems due to two different ground potentials at each rod.
 
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IF you pound a new ground rod into the ground by the dish, it MUST be bonded to your house ground rod by your power panel per NEC code. Otherwise it's almost guaranteed to cause problems due to two different ground potentials at each rod.
A bonding wire has already been run to this dish waiting for the new rod to be driven into the ground at the dish.

It runs from a sub-panel at the back of the house that branches off of the main panel. A certified electrician has checked all this and signed off on everything.

I have to take extra precautions where we live due to this area being prone to lightning strikes. There's an high concentration of iron in the soil around here that seems to draw lightning like a magnet.

My chain link fence has been struck twice. I have lightning arrestors on everything coming into the house. Not a good idea around here to be outside doing anything in a storm. :)
 
Mystery solved: Just this morning, and after I recovered from a severe bout with Vertigo, I decided to tackle it again.

Exhausting all other possibilities, I decided to replace the 8 way switch. What I found was not expected. As I noted before, I had switched this dish between two other ports and the problem followed it, I broke the old law "Never Assume" anything.

I assumed, there's that word again, the switch was good. In the process of switching cables, I had missed two ports that was the problem child.

Basically, what I did was solve one problem, only to discover another, our ole arch nemesis, H2O. Two of the cables have developed a leak somewhere between the dish and panel housing the switch.

The vinyl jacket was acting like a straw, carrying water all the way back to the cabinet housing the switch. Two of the stingers inside the Snap and Seal connector was black as coal and ready to fail.

Undoubtedly, there's water inside the switch. After changing the switch and filling both new connectors with dielectric grease (Temporary Fix), Every satellite is up and running.

Now I'm left with the unwanted task of changing out cables, only this time, I am using all flooded cable.

Just for curiosity's sake, I pulled out a spare cable inside the conduit to see if by some chance there's water in it. No water. I'm taking no chances this time, all 20 cables is going to be replaced and a new switch added when I'm finished with that.

I just want to thank all you folks for helping me try to solve this problem. Have a great day and I appreciate all the advice. Cheers.
 
Mystery solved: Just this morning, and after I recovered from a severe bout with Vertigo, I decided to tackle it again.

Exhausting all other possibilities, I decided to replace the 8 way switch. What I found was not expected. As I noted before, I had switched this dish between two other ports and the problem followed it, I broke the old law "Never Assume" anything.

I assumed, there's that word again, the switch was good. In the process of switching cables, I had missed two ports that was the problem child.

Basically, what I did was solve one problem, only to discover another, our ole arch nemesis, H2O. Two of the cables have developed a leak somewhere between the dish and panel housing the switch.

The vinyl jacket was acting like a straw, carrying water all the way back to the cabinet housing the switch. Two of the stingers inside the Snap and Seal connector was black as coal and ready to fail.

Undoubtedly, there's water inside the switch. After changing the switch and filling both new connectors with dielectric grease (Temporary Fix), Every satellite is up and running.

Now I'm left with the unwanted task of changing out cables, only this time, I am using all flooded cable.

Just for curiosity's sake, I pulled out a spare cable inside the conduit to see if by some chance there's water in it. No water. I'm taking no chances this time, all 20 cables is going to be replaced and a new switch added when I'm finished with that.

I just want to thank all you folks for helping me try to solve this problem. Have a great day and I appreciate all the advice. Cheers.

Good to hear you tracked it down!
 
Good to hear you tracked it down!
I'm glad too, but now comes the real work, replacing 20 cables to 10 different dishes. I had ran into this problem many years ago with a customer.

He actually had water dripping out the RF connector on the back of the receiver. I was shocked that it had just recently stopped working, and someone hadn't been electrocuted.

I don't know who the original installer was, but I would have looked that character up and had a talk with him. He had buried the cable under a gravel driveway without conduit.

Thanks again for replying.
 
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I'm glad too, but now comes the real work, replacing 20 cables to 10 different dishes. I had ran into this problem many years ago with a customer.

He actually had water dripping out the RF connector on the back of the receiver. I was shocked that it had just recently stopped working, and someone hadn't been electrocuted.

I don't know who the original installer was, but I would have looked that character up and had a talk with him. He had buried the cable under a gravel driveway without conduit.

Thanks again for replying.

Yes, that is going to quite a job. At least by doing it yourself you know it will be done right! ;)
 
I'm not sure if it really helps, but I always see to it that a cable at an LNB starts to go UP, to above the F-connector, before going DOWN again. To prevent water ingress (that starts at the F-connector) going further than that highest point.

Of course, this does not help against water ingress at a damaged cable...

Greetz,
A33
 
I'm not sure if it really helps, but I always see to it that a cable at an LNB starts to go UP, to above the F-connector, before going DOWN again. To prevent water ingress (that starts at the F-connector) going further than that highest point.

Of course, this does not help against water ingress at a damaged cable...

Greetz,
A33
I always leave a loop above the LNBF just for that reason, even if it has a hood on it. Old habit and I seal the connection as well with a non-corrosive compound.

The acid in silicone will corrode the connection when it's curing. Learned that early in the game. I dug out two spools of flooded cable earlier today. Not going through this again.
 
I'll bet I find critter marks along these cables somewhere. I saw a few signs earlier this evening. :)

I wouldn't doubt it. A couple years back I had an issue and I noticed what looked like something had gnawed on the outer sheath of one of mine. Replaced it and so far so good. Too bad they don't make scented cable to keep them away! ;)
 
I wouldn't doubt it. A couple years back I had an issue and I noticed what looked like something had gnawed on the outer sheath of one of mine. Replaced it and so far so good. Too bad they don't make scented cable to keep them away! ;)
Luckily, I am cable poor. I had 10,000 feet left over after closed the business and I bought 15,000 from my brother when he closed his install business.

He did installs for various cable companies and I ended up with a boatload of snap and seal connectors of various kinds, strippers, wire ties, and various other implements.

He had a nice trencher, but I turned it down since I was not installing dishes any longer. At 70 years old, I can't imagine needing all that.

At least I don't have to put out money to finish this job. I haven't even had time to sort through all the stuff he had. Just guessing, I'd estimate there are several thousand F Connectors in the building. :)
 
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Luckily, I am cable poor. I had 10,000 feet left over after closed the business and I bought 15,000 from my brother when he closed his install business.

He did installs for various cable companies and I ended up with a boatload of snap and seal connectors of various kinds, strippers, wire ties, and various other implements.

He had a nice trencher, but I turned it down since I was not installing dishes any longer. At 70 years old, I can't imagine needing all that.

At least I don't have to put out money to finish this job. I haven't even had time to sort through all the stuff he had. Just guessing, I'd estimate there are several thousand F Connectors in the building. :)

Sounds like you are set! Always good to have spares! :)
 
More good news, today I finished up running new cable to to all the dishes, All the satellites have a great signal and switching between them quicker than ever.

My wife wanted to have me ask you guys a question. On 127W, she always watched Reelz which, which is ITC and had Bloomberg on 4020/H/30000.

For some reason, this transponder is showing no signal. A blind scan produces no channels, and I ever done a transponder search and entered the VPID and other information and still found nothing.

TVRO Sat and Lyngesat says it's still there. Are any of you receiving it? She's a crime investigation not and that was her favorite channel. Just curious if you folks are still getting it? Thanks.
 
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Yes 4020 H 30000 127w is coming in here.
Thanks, I thought it was. I did a factory reset on the receiver yesterday and everything else was coming in but not the Reelz MUX.

I have a cell booster and thought it may be interfering, but wasn't that. Still didn't have it with the booster unhooked. I hadn't checked for possible WiFi problems, but last night I did a discovery and found 9 different WiFi connections.

It has to be infrequency interference from somewhere because none of the channels on that transponder works and there's no signal at all.

I have a 5G cell phone and it doesn't detect a 5G service, so I'm pretty sure it's not that, at least from a cell tower. Must be another source If that's the problem.

We live 10 miles from town as the crow flies and deep down in a valley between 4 mountains, and there's no 5G on the tower we get cell service from.

Anyway, thanks for the reply. :)