Well I made the move to Plasma this weekend. The price at Sears was to good to pass up any longer. I bought the TC-P50S2 for $765.00. This set lists for $1,100.00 when it came out. It was very easy to set-up. The one thing I noticed right away this set is very sensitive going from HD channels to SD channels, the picture is pretty poor when an SD channel or commercial is on. When on an HD channel it look pretty good but not yet perfect. I wanted to ask if anyone that has this set, and has all the setting in the custom mode all adjusted for viewing sports and movies. I don't have a calibration DVD to help get the setting just right. I have gone through the different picture modes ,that are already pre-set. The Vivid mode is very bright, the standard looks dull and cinema seems a bit dark. The Game mode is also pretty bight. I wanted to hold off it at all possible before I call and have a pro come in to Calibrate it. I hope for some good advice from the guys who have Plasmas . Just to add I replaced my Panasonic 53' CRT rear projection that has been very good to me for the past 8 years and still is going strong. I receive my programming from Dish Network on a VIP 211 receiver and a Samsung Blu-ray player.
Purchased Panasonic TC-P50S2
- Thread starter wellze
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I don't have the S2 (just the 50S1), so I can't provide specific advice. However, if you are finding the standard mode 'dull' and the cinema mode 'too dark', I'm not sure you would be happy with calibration results. A lot of the calibration is dependent on several factors including ambient light level, type of material (sports vs movies) and personal preferences.
When I set up a TV, I usually do the following: First, I go to advanced video and set the color temperature to as close to 6500 degK as possible. Depending on the set this is either THX, 6500K or Warm. *I will generally turn off any feature called 'noise reduction' and lower sharpness to 10% or so. This is because these features will cause edge noise in transitions from light and dark. Next, I will go back to the main screen and lower the color saturation significantly. Most sets severly overdrive the colors, especially red and green. Finally, I will lower contrast to a point where the picture looks natural for what I am watching. Contrast is usually set to 80-90% out of the box, and I usually go down to 40-50%, but I went a bit higher on my S1 (around 58). I may or may not change brightness depending on room conditions, but lowering contrast will generally give you more details in both the bright and shadow areas of the picture. It removes some of the 'snap' you discuss, but you quickly get used to seeing things you have never seen before. Oh, I also would set the black level to 'light' on this set.
Give those a try and see if you can come up with something you like. If you are looking for specific settings others have used, I would check out the S2 thread over on AVS Forum. Link: The Official Panasonic TC-PXXS2 Owner's Discussion Thread [NO Price talk] - AVS Forum
Unfortunately, it runs to 1500 responses right now, but several members have posted not only suggested user mode settings, but also service menu suggestions to correct the overdriven greens. Depends on how far you want to take it. If you decide to mess with the service menu though, be sure to write down EVERYTHING before you start as some of the settings will change others and it may be tough getting it back unless you are careful.
When I set up a TV, I usually do the following: First, I go to advanced video and set the color temperature to as close to 6500 degK as possible. Depending on the set this is either THX, 6500K or Warm. *I will generally turn off any feature called 'noise reduction' and lower sharpness to 10% or so. This is because these features will cause edge noise in transitions from light and dark. Next, I will go back to the main screen and lower the color saturation significantly. Most sets severly overdrive the colors, especially red and green. Finally, I will lower contrast to a point where the picture looks natural for what I am watching. Contrast is usually set to 80-90% out of the box, and I usually go down to 40-50%, but I went a bit higher on my S1 (around 58). I may or may not change brightness depending on room conditions, but lowering contrast will generally give you more details in both the bright and shadow areas of the picture. It removes some of the 'snap' you discuss, but you quickly get used to seeing things you have never seen before. Oh, I also would set the black level to 'light' on this set.
Give those a try and see if you can come up with something you like. If you are looking for specific settings others have used, I would check out the S2 thread over on AVS Forum. Link: The Official Panasonic TC-PXXS2 Owner's Discussion Thread [NO Price talk] - AVS Forum
Unfortunately, it runs to 1500 responses right now, but several members have posted not only suggested user mode settings, but also service menu suggestions to correct the overdriven greens. Depends on how far you want to take it. If you decide to mess with the service menu though, be sure to write down EVERYTHING before you start as some of the settings will change others and it may be tough getting it back unless you are careful.
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Thanks for the reply, I will try those settings and tweak the setting to my preferences. I knew I would have to make adjustments just didn't want to get them so far out of adjustment that I need to start over. As you stated the greens were over powering I will work on that and hope I get results. Thanks for the heads up on the other site. I will check them out.
Cinema Mode
Brightness around 60-61
Contrast 90 (once it's broken in)
Color 45-47
Tint +8 or so
Get ya a Spears and Munsil Blu-ray, and yeah, SD looks like crap on mine too, and thats with the pre/pro.
Brightness around 60-61
Contrast 90 (once it's broken in)
Color 45-47
Tint +8 or so
Get ya a Spears and Munsil Blu-ray, and yeah, SD looks like crap on mine too, and thats with the pre/pro.
Thanks Elwaylite, I played around this past weekend and got things looking pretty good. The NFL is looking real nice. So you mention the break-in , how long should that take and what happens when its broke-in. I'm new to Plasma , I've had a 53" Panasonic Rear projection for about 8yrs. its a great machine after you get the ICU's replaced and get it calibrated by a pro. What can I expect for picture quality after the break-in. Why can't the HD programmers concentrate on 1080P before they worry so much about 3D. Is there even a channel that broadcasts in 1080P?. Have a good one thanks again.
100 hours is good, and you are just conditioning the gas cells, really, just requires a little more care in ensuring they age evenly. They harden over time and become more resistant.
The PQ on a plasma will tend to improve after a few hundred hours, but of course nothing like a full calibration. My only complaint is the lack of a CMS, but I have another unit that tweaks color. Grayscale looks real good after a pro gets done with it. It'll be awhile before 1080p hits, many channels are just now getting to HD. 1080p can be more efficiently compressed than 1080i, so one might think a 1080p channel with the same bitrate as a 1080i channel, would have a sharper image.
The PQ on a plasma will tend to improve after a few hundred hours, but of course nothing like a full calibration. My only complaint is the lack of a CMS, but I have another unit that tweaks color. Grayscale looks real good after a pro gets done with it. It'll be awhile before 1080p hits, many channels are just now getting to HD. 1080p can be more efficiently compressed than 1080i, so one might think a 1080p channel with the same bitrate as a 1080i channel, would have a sharper image.
I made a couple of calls regarding having my set calibrated. I found out that a lot of HDTV repair shops in my area have stop doing it. They claim Best Buy is the only one that will do it. The guys I talked to said that the new HDTV's are loaded with pre-sets that look almost as good. The Cinema, Game and so forth. I haven't heard anything good about BB doing calibration. I will have to keep calling. I would guess I should wait until my set is fully broke in before I make any kind of move , whats your opinion.
Stay away from BBuy calibrations, their QC between tech's is not very good. Where are you located? As someone who owns a meter, I disagree that sets dont need it. THX sets like the G and V have very nice THX modes, but calibration is still an improvement.
THX Video Tech - View Single Post - THX Certified Video Calibrator
There is a list of THX guys. THX calibration is a little more new than ISF, but they are requiring more work to get certified than ISF, plus peer review of calibrations. Most of these guys are THX AND ISF, as opposed to just being ISF, so I'd spend my money wisely with a THX guy.
You may find one on this list in a close state that travels, if not, Gregg Loewen (who I use) is well known and also Chad B. Both are THX/ISF and do great jobs.
There is a list of THX guys. THX calibration is a little more new than ISF, but they are requiring more work to get certified than ISF, plus peer review of calibrations. Most of these guys are THX AND ISF, as opposed to just being ISF, so I'd spend my money wisely with a THX guy.
You may find one on this list in a close state that travels, if not, Gregg Loewen (who I use) is well known and also Chad B. Both are THX/ISF and do great jobs.
Greg or a certified tech is best. However, I live in Milwaukee (actually, Bayside: I-43 and Brown Deer Rd) and do have a basic calibrator if you wanted to take a shot.
To be honest, with this set not having gamma or CMS adjustments, and knowledgeable guy with a good meter can hook it up. Cinema mode, 90 contrast, set brightness with disc and set grayscale, BAM!
