Reed switch sensor actuator

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dashaund

SatelliteGuys Pro
Original poster
Jul 13, 2006
383
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Travelers Rest, SC
Hey guys. Finally got my Unimesh 10 footer going (yayayay!). I must say I LOVE C-band. Not that I didn't enjoy my motorized Ku setup, but there's SO much more on C. Anyways, I've run into a snag. I'm using the GBOX V3000 to move my dish. It will move it but only one pulse at a time. I've got my satellites programmed with my Coolsat, and every time I move the dish it says E-2. Like I said, the dish will move, but only one pulse at a time, it won't take off on it's own. I've tried hooking the Gbox straight into the actuator (no extension) and the same thing happens, so I know it's not my cable. I've read around and some have told me to check the reed switch sensor. I don't know where to check that or what to do. Any ideas? Should I just buy a new actuator or is there anyway to fix this?
 
What I've read here, is that the E2 error means this:
I'm moving the motor, and not getting pulses from the reed switch, so I shut down for safety reasons!

So, check your reed switch wiring between the motor and the Gbox.
Check the connections on the back of the Gbox.
Check you have the correct wires at your motor!
As a last resort, you might open up your motor to see what's going on, but before that, explore the other options and post pictures!
 
Hi Dashaund, I am having a similar problem and I think what happened in my case. It may be the same for you, not sure. I will open a new post for mine but not sure if it is the same as you.

I got a 12 foot dish running with a VBox V and a Viewsat and Fortec receivers. Everything working for months. This is at my in-laws. Then by Father in-law decided he wanted to hide all wires and without asking me he disconnected the cables at the VBox. Got all cables thru a pipe and under ground. The problem is that when I installed it, there was only one color of cables for the motor-Vbox run. So I marked them and I told him not to touch them. Well he forgot and by getting the cables underground he had to add more because it was not reaching to the VBox as before. He ended up them not knowing which cables were the motor -,+ and which cables were the sensor -,+, so he started trying. Since then, the VBox can move the dish (after I helped him figure out which ones were the motor) but now the VBox will not display any numbers. So know I do not know where the satellite is at, 780, 840?? , etc. I need to count by ticks I am know how far one dish is from another but it is a pain. I can not store in memory either as the VBox does not have a clue of the ticks.
My assumption is that he connected the Motor cables into the Sensor and fried them at the motor, but I am not sure if that is possible. I read in the motor mannual that it could. Not sure if it is your case too.
 
good news; bad news:

Hooking motor power across the reed switch contacts would fry (evaporate!) them.
Similar to plugging a 3v flashlight bulb into the 110vac wall power. - poof! - :eek:

The good news is, a new reed would fix that problem.
 
I believe I have it wired correctly: large red (+) and white (-) for the motor power, and the small green (+) and black (-) for the sensor, right? It's turning just doesn't count. I'd like to try and replace the reed switch. Where do I purchase replacements and where is it located? I'm a newbie at actuator so excuse my ignorance.
 
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large red (+) and white (-) for the motor power, and the small green (+) and black (-) for the sensor, right?
That sounds right

It's turning just doesn't count.
That does not sound right. If the VBox does not "feel" the pulse from the Reed Switch, it will stop turning, and give error E-2.
Do you see any display on the VBox?

Where do I purchase replacements and where is it located?
Which motor do you have?
The Reed Switch is located at the motor, inside the cover, where the connections are made.
Skyvision.com is a good place to start.
 
Thanks for the great information. I have no idea what brand/model/type actuator it is. I guess I'll have to get behind the cover to see if it has any information. There's no markings on the outside. I know this is probably ignorant but it looks just like all the actuators I see on polar mounts on the diagrams :) I would like to see if I can find a reed switch sensor locally to replace it and troubleshoot it. Would I be able to find one at, say, an auto parts store or somewhere? Or is this one of those "special" things I'd have to order. I know a couple of your suggested mouser.com, but I'd hate to have to order and wait a week for it, but if I have to I have to. I know truckracer mentioned the mini sized alarm door sensors, would I get one at Lowe's/Home Depot?
 
The reed switches I've seen is mounted just above the largest gear that drives the acme screw rod. It may be held inplace with black goop like tar. Sometimes, two white wires go into the ends about 1" apart.

There are all sorts of reed switches. single pole, double pole, normally open and normally closed. You need to dig yours out and check it with an ohm meter to see what you have and that may not give you a reading.

You might be better off ordering one of Sadouns replacement motors.
 
Thanks Adam. I'll definitely give it a lookover to see if it's an easy fix. You're right, if it's too much trouble I'll go with a new actuator...they're not ridiculously expensive.
 
first thing to check is that you havent pinched the wire insulation inside the vbox connector. i had a wire shoved too far in my vbox and it wouldnt get pulses and produced an E2 error. from there id test the switch as follows. if you have a test meter, set it to continuity check and hook the test leads to the sensor wires. drive the actuator with you positioner while watching or listening to your meter (depends on type some are audible). if no pulses then check the same at actuator (this would eliminate the cable. i use an 18v cordless drill batt to power the actuator at the dish). if you still have no pulses then your reed switch is no good. id probly replace the reed switch as they are way cheaper than a new actuator (like buying a new car for a flat tire).

crackt out,.
 
Sometimes............and it is just sometimes............if you have a reed switch that is stuck closed (seems fairly common) you can give it a smack with the handle of a screwdriver or something similar and it will release and you might get a little more life out of it.

What I do to test is to take my multimeter with me out to the dish. Pull the cover off the actuator and find the reed switch. Follow the wires from the switch back to the terminal block or wherever they happen to connect to the wires from the receiver. Check for continuity between the two wires. Rotate the magnet if you can, it should slip on the shaft if you give it a turn by hand..........what should happen is when a magnet is directly above the switch, you will get continuity between the two wires and when the switch is beneath a space between two magnets the contacts should open, thus no continuity. Sometimes I have found the magnet being too close to the switch will cause problems. If the switch is stuck shut no matter what the position of the magnet wheel then take the wheel off and give the switch a smack. Re-check continuity to confirm that it opened up and repeat as necessary. Once it opens up, put the magnet wheel back on and check continuity while turning the magnet wheel..........it should open and close with the magnets passing the switch.

If all is ok at the dish and you still have problems, check wiring etc. and perform a continuity test of the sensor wires at the receiver. If open all the time even when running actuator then you have a broken or misplaced wire. If closed all the time you have a short somewhere.
If you see pulsing open, closed contact at the wires on the control box when moving the dish and it still doesn't work then you might have a bad GBox.
 
Okay, all good advice here. I love this forum :) From the information I was give, this actuator hasn't been moved in over 10 years, just sitting outside day after day. I'm guessing there's a pretty good chance that static from lightning may have killed the sensor. I wanna doubt it's the GBox since I had the same results with my UST-4400, but I'm a newbie at all this so I could be wrong. I'm off on Tuesday so I'll take a look at it then.
 
My actuator is hadn't been moved in over 5+ years and the sensor still works although I had to make a little "adjustment" to it with the back of a screwdriver.
 
these actuator arms are pretty easy to take apart and clean up , making sure the screw drive is clean, free and clear of rust & whatever. also ensuring the bushing ( most being nylon) are clean lubed and turn freely. the sensor like mentioned above are anywhere from a couple of dollars to 10-12 already premade up to the price of a new actuator arm.

good luck
 
Thanks gabshere. Yeah I don't want to toss something that could be easily repaired. I don't find putting a little effort into it if it's not a major repair and would cost more to fix than a new piece. We'll see how it goes.
 
Thanks for the great information. I have no idea what brand/model/type actuator it is. I guess I'll have to get behind the cover to see if it has any information. There's no markings on the outside. I know this is probably ignorant but it looks just like all the actuators I see on polar mounts on the diagrams :) I would like to see if I can find a reed switch sensor locally to replace it and troubleshoot it. Would I be able to find one at, say, an auto parts store or somewhere? Or is this one of those "special" things I'd have to order. I know a couple of your suggested mouser.com, but I'd hate to have to order and wait a week for it, but if I have to I have to. I know truckracer mentioned the mini sized alarm door sensors, would I get one at Lowe's/Home Depot?

I got mine at Radio Shack. It's lasted over a year. Birdview solid here. But principle is the same. cheap
 
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