So someone is trying hard to push me into a JVC DLA-RS400U

[gadgtfreek]

Been talking with a says guy, and when you price these + screen vs a 65 OLED or 70+ LCD, it blows my mind.

The new models have doubled brightness (after calibration), which is huge for me since I am a living room HT guy and deal with ambient light.

• 1700 Lumens with High Power Lamp (PK-L2615U)—Upgraded for 2016
• Three 1920x1080(x3) 0.7-inch D-ILA devices
• e-shift4 4K Precision 3840 X 2160 Projected Image—Upgraded for 2016
• Dual Full Speed 18Gbps HDMI/HDCP 2.2 Compatible Inputs—Upgraded for 2016
• IMPROVED - Multi Pixel Control (MPC) with Auto Mode for ease of use—Upgraded for 2016
  MPC works with 4K60P (up to 4:4:4) signals
• HDR (High Dynamic Range) Compatible —NEW for 2016
• Motion Enhance (2D, 3D, 4K) with Upgraded Clear Motion Drive—Upgraded for 2016
• 3D Enabled (Active Shutter Method)
  • Accepts Frame Sequential, Side-by-Side, and Top-Bottom
  • 3D Anamorphic Capable
  • 3D Crosstalk Cancellation
  • 3D Parallax Adjustment
  • Optional Active 3D Glasses (PK-AG3G) and RF Emitter (PK-EM2G)
• Clear Black Signal Processing
• Native contrast ratio: 40,000:1
• Intelligent Lens Aperture increases dynamic contrast ratio to 400,000:1

Been talking to a guy I trust that owns one and he says it is a light canon, and the contrast ratio is outstanding.

So far the template would be:

JVC RS400
Fiber Optic or something of the sort long run HDMI cable for 4k/60hz/HDBaseT is also an option
Shelf on the wall behind us
Throw would be 11 feet
Screen would be 106" diag/16x9, for ambient light room (some gray type)

I think with the short throw and lumens of the FP it will stand up well in the living room at all times witht he right screen.

Would love to hear what screen brands you living room guys are using right now. The Elite Screens 5D cinegray looks intriguing.

 

[tigerfan33]

I have the rs500 and by far the best fp I've had. I've had Sony, Epson and Benq and other JVC's but with the light output of these new ones are on another level.
You need to know that the 400 will do HDR but no p3 color filter. For 2k you probably not going to see a big difference between the 400 or 500. You'll need a bat cave to see the difference.
If you could get your hands on Dalite HP screen you'll be more amazed. Unfortunately Dalite stop making these a few years ago. I would suggest some gain in your screen if you want some extra pop in your pic.

 

[gadgtfreek]

Great, thanks. It's a bit intimidating to think about a 100" screen in the living room, but also exciting. I also am glad to know the light output got better, will help in my situation. Most of our viewing is at night with a 40w bulb off to the side, or no light on, but we do watch some football during the day.

I was looking at this screen in 100"

http://www.elitescreens.com/products/ambient-light-rejecting-screens/1940-elite-ezframe-5d

 

[tigerfan33]

If your not in a hurry, get your shelf and projector first then screen last.
Order samples of all types screens you and Mike have discussed and see which you would like. 106" will work perfect with your throw.

 

[gadgtfreek]

Good idea. He is pretty convinced on a 106" screen, and I have sent him measurements and pics.

I am not sure what screens they sell. Most places I look they have like the Elite cinegray 3D and 5D for less than $1k, then they jump WAY up.

To be honest, no way Im dropping $4k on a FP, $250 on the fiber hdmi cable and then $3500 on a screen

 

[tigerfan33]

Even though you'll be on the short end of the throw, you'll get more brightness to boot.
I watch with a 40w probably 80% of the time.
Movies no lights to watch the JVC magical blacks.
You'll never go back to the theater that's for sure.
I'm teaming the Samsung UHD blu ray when it arrives.
Kris Dearing has said not to expect miracles when viewing HDR material on fp as he has seen a few clips.
We shall see

 

[gadgtfreek]

Do you use it for normal HDTV too? My only other concern is blowing Dish up to 100"...

 

[teachsac]

Why the projector now? I thought you were going to wait for a true 4K projector?

 

[gadgtfreek]

Part of it was light output. Everyone is raving about the ability of the new series, and I think the true 4K stuff will be out of my price range for a bit. I'm not sold, someone just got me thinking so I have going through the due diligence. Im not convinced it is the best move since it would be the main display device around 25 hours a week. Also not convinced stuff like Directv and Dish will look worth a damn at 100". Im sure it would be great for movies, but that is 2 hours on average.

 

[tigerfan33]

As I told you this is my main tv watching 3-4 hours a night. I forgot to tell you I watch around 80-85% Directv. Anytime I watch tv/sports I have the 40w lamp on.
Watching blu ray or streaming lights off.

 

[gadgtfreek]

How do you feel about the Pq blown up on Directv? Some have told me not to look at it the same way as a flat panel in terms of blowing the image up.

 

[teachsac]

Overall with my X3, I am still satisfied with the picture from Directv.

S~

 

[gadgtfreek]

Sounds like not a concern then.

My other concern was the lamp/calibration and that much usage. I am fine with 6 month touchups, and I read these new lamps are supposed to last longer.

 

[jayn_j]

Late to the party, as I've been travelling the last week.

Factor in the cost of bulb replacement. When you do, figure 80% of the quoted lifetime, as they use best case. Go even lower if you are going to use it in phasers set to kill mode. Don't count on adding a chinese bare bulb and re-using the housing. Experience of others seems to say you will only get a couple of hundred hours before you are at it again.

I only use factory bulbs, and I tend to get close to the quoted hours. However my theater is a cave and I do well with eco and high altitude modes until the bulb starts darkening. High altitude is a tradeoff. It runs the fan faster, but also increases noise from the fan. However it keeps the bulb cooler which is good for life. My bulbs are about $200 and both have gotten just over 4000 hours.

I agree with tigerfan on projecting against a wall for a couple of weeks before committing to a screen. Initially, it will look huge, but the apparent size quickly shrinks and you find yourself zooming the image larger. I believe you are going to be limited by the wall size of your room and the maximum zoom for the throw distance. Leave yourself a bit of zoom in reserve as well. Strange things sometimes happen right at the stop. I waited a month and the screen went from 85" to 120". Feels about right, although my son felt we should have gone 135"

When I shelf mounted, I left a gap between the shelf and the wall and made the shelf wide enough that the projector is about 4" off the wall. My projector's air inlet is in the rear, and I feel this really helps cooling. Something to consider.

 

[gadgtfreek]

Thanks. It looks like with the wall to wall distance, depth of the FP, and leaving 5" or so, I would be at an 11 foot throw. Max for the 400 at that range is 110", which is why were are just gonna go 106" from the start. Mike recommended an Elite 3D Cinegray (says throw is not enough for their 5D).

So I'm currently looking at:

RS400
80ft fiber optic HDMI
Elite Screens 3D Cinegray at 106"

Whole project would be less than $5k.

Looking at the view distance charts, 11 feet at 106" would put me right in the middle of the cone between full 1080p and 2160p. Also would help with my need of light output.

As for the bulbs, I fully understand buying factory one. My plan would be to have Chad calibrate a mode for "day", like for football, and then a "night mode" for evening Dish stuff and Blu-ray.

 

[jayn_j]

Thanks. It looks like with the wall to wall distance, depth of the FP, and leaving 5" or so, I would be at an 11 foot throw. Max for the 400 at that range is 110", which is why were are just gonna go 106" from the start. Mike recommended an Elite 3D Cinegray (says throw is not enough for their 5D).

So I'm currently looking at:

RS400
80ft fiber optic HDMI
Elite Screens 3D Cinegray at 106"

Whole project would be less than $5k.

Looking at the view distance charts, 11 feet at 106" would put me right in the middle of the cone between full 1080p and 2160p. Also would help with my need of light output.

As for the bulbs, I fully understand buying factory one. My plan would be to have Chad calibrate a mode for "day", like for football, and then a "night mode" for evening Dish stuff and Blu-ray.

The elite 3D sounds good. I am using a 120" cinewhite sableframe, which was acceptable for my Epson 8350. I have had very good luck with Elite. Others often recommend Jamestown screens. You mitght want to check them out: http://www.jamestownhometheaterscreen.com/index.php/projector-screens/

You are going to have greater noise issues with the projector being directly above your seating position. You might want to look at some baffling below the shelf to do noise control.

I really like the idea of dual calibration. Sounds perfect for your needs.

Best of luck with the project. I agree, once FP and you never go back.

 

[gadgtfreek]

Thanks. According to a couple of owners these JVCs are very quiet, Tigerfan might have an idea. I was looking at an Epson 5030ue wireless, and was told by Mike noise would be a problem. In the summer and winter the indoor part of our unit is in the living, it drowns out everything LOL.

IIRC, Mike was also suggesting the SableFrame which I think looks nice in the velvet frame. For some reason I prefer the framed look vs no edge.

 

[jayn_j]

I don't think you can get the gray in sableframe 2 though

 

[gadgtfreek]

http://www.elitescreens.com/products/ambient-light-rejecting-screens/1939-sable-frame-cinegrey3d
http://www.elitescreens.com/product...eens/1939-sable-frame-cinegrey3d#5-dimensions

It's either going to have to be a 100" or 110" it seems.

According to the JVC throw calculator, at 11 feet, I have 60" to 108" 16x9 (diag).

 

[tigerfan33]

My setup about 4-5 " over my head. Noise not a factor in low lamp. High lamp you can hear but it's not an issue.

I need to add the reason for this setup is to get most out of HP screen. Closer to eye level to projector the more brightness gain.
Regardless noise is not an issue.