UPS ( UNINTERUPPTIBLE power supply)
- Thread starter beandaddy
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The HWS consumes less than 60 watts. Use whatever you feel comfortable with that satisfies that specification.
Understand that since the Hopper doesn't support being shut down by a UPS so an automatic shutdown feature won't benefit the Hopper (or most AV gear for that matter).
Know also that the power ratings on modern UPS units is awfully optimistic and the actual watt output is often MUCH LESS THAN the KVA rating that they're hyping now.
As an example (not an endorsement), Tripp Lite offers a model HT850UPS that has a 750KVA rating and it only delivers 450W. Their HT1000UPS delivers only 500W.
Understand that since the Hopper doesn't support being shut down by a UPS so an automatic shutdown feature won't benefit the Hopper (or most AV gear for that matter).
Know also that the power ratings on modern UPS units is awfully optimistic and the actual watt output is often MUCH LESS THAN the KVA rating that they're hyping now.
As an example (not an endorsement), Tripp Lite offers a model HT850UPS that has a 750KVA rating and it only delivers 450W. Their HT1000UPS delivers only 500W.
There are 2 reason I use a ups. The first is to prevent power surges. The other is to prevent a shut down if there is a brief power loss.
I presume you are interested in the far less expensive Stand By UPS's and not the far more expensive On-Line UPS's. Since there is no evidence that the any of Dish's STB's are Energystar 5.0 compliant (nor complaint with ANY Energystar version) just about any standby (the least expensive UPS's) UPS should do the trick for a Dish box. APC is very popular. However, be aware that for many of the latest PCs, AVR's, HDTV's, etc. that are Energystar 5.0 compliant, you should consider at least something like the lower cost PFC Sinewave Stand By Series UPS by CyberPower or even better (but more expensive) one of the Smart UPS line of APC UPS's, but I believe APC only offers it's Smart line as On-line UPS only, hence the higher retail price.
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Just buy one that has a common cheap replacement battery. I'm on my third battery for my Belkin 650 unit over the past 8 years, but the batteries are cheap ($15).
I use line conditioning UPSes on my home theaters. Yep, cost more. But sags, spikes, static and dropouts are all protected against. I learned my power sags were due to an overloaded circuit and ran another one. Still, I think the cleaner power will extend the life of my components.
I would guess that you will probably never need a UPS if you never have had problems.
I need a UPS on all my electronics as there is a glitch in the line just about every day. I hear the UPS under my computer kick in for a second or so. Not long enough to lose the clock on the microwave or oven.
If I do lose power completely due to a storm or a drunk knocking down a power pole nearby, (it happened once) I can continue on my PC or watching TV for a while.
Yes, and I just remembered those are called "in-line" UPS's, which I've also invested in. I often forget about the "in-line" option as I am so used to considering "Stand-by" and "On-line/Double Conversion" in my crusty brain. UPS's, despite my complicated posts
, are themselves complicated for the consumer who just wants to go and get a UPS not realizing they may need one type over another.
