What order into DP34 Plus switch?

aegrotatio

SatelliteGuys Pro
Original poster
Jan 23, 2006
350
2
A Public Bathroom
What order do the LNBFs get hooked to a DP34 plus switch?
I have a 322 and a 625.
I use 110, 119, and 118.75 on a converted SuperDiSH 121.
The hacks that repointed me hooked 110, 118, 119 according to "Check Switch."
I am given to understand that the order ought to be 119, 110, and 118 into the DP34.
Finally, for reliability, should the 625 or the 322 be hooked to ports 1-2? Right now I have the 322 on ports 1-2.

Any thoughts? I'm not new at this. I just want to find out the conventional wisdom on the relatively new 118.75 switch configuration.

Thanks
 
It doesn't really matter. From a purist point-of-view, 119 should be on input 1, 110 on input 2, and 129 on input 3. Reason being is that port 1 doesn't require diseqc commands and so if the receiver isn't putting out diseqc commands then 119 would come through by default and you would still have most of your programming since 119 provides much of the base channels until a repair was made.
 
What do the checkboxes "SuperDISH" and "Alternate" mean on the Check Dish screen?
I have no difference in results with either of them checked or unchecked.
 
reason we like to have 119 110 118 in that order because it is easer to trouble shoot.
it doesn't do any difference what it says SD or ALT. it's the same
 
Would the OP be able to use a Dishpro Plus Twin LNBF w/118.75?

If so he could just run 1 line to each dual tuner & then use a seperator, rather than 2 lines to each from the DP34.
 
I was not exactly sure how the repoint kit worked, I thought it used a twin & a single FSS lnb.

After looking it up, I see it is 119&118.7 then a single for 110.

I was trying to save a couple cable runs into the house, but that won't't work
 
Then go with a DPP44 switch... it'll reduce your cable runs within the house, but the cost of the switch will differ.

Now there is other ways to go about it, you can do a complete UHF Pro setup on your 625/322 and place your recievers in a basement or other central location where the 4 line runs from the switch would goto, all remotes will be UHF Pro, your limited to coaxial connection to your TV's...

Plenty of ways to approach it, though I kinda like the idea of throwing up a Dish 500 with a DPP Twin and just pluggin in the 118 into the Twin. Probably cheaper.
 
Would the OP be able to use a Dishpro Plus Twin LNBF w/118.75?

If so he could just run 1 line to each dual tuner & then use a seperator, rather than 2 lines to each from the DP34.

Yes he can. Assuming he has no problem with two dishes at his home. I've found this solution to be a workable one. Especially when dealing with homes that have finished basements and no feasible way to run more cables to each room than what is already existing.
 
What do the checkboxes "SuperDISH" and "Alternate" mean on the Check Dish screen?
I have no difference in results with either of them checked or unchecked.
Checking SuperDish will cause your receiver to run additional checks and should be checked if using the FSS birds at 105 & 121, and now I guess the one at 118.7.

However, if your system is not working correctly it will probably run those additional checks anyway. If you only have 2 or 3 DBS birds, don't check either to save time when doing a Check Switch.

(Techs who get paid by the hour should check them, especially on a couple of dual tuners.:D )
 
Good, I figured the extra checkboxes just do more tones and DiSEqC commands.

As for DP34 vs. DPP44, well, the DPP44 is at least 4 times more expensive.
I already have two coaxial cables going to each receiver.

My naive perception of the band-stacking arrangement on the DPP44 means, to me, that it's more sensitive to signal quality issues on account of the higher frequencies used for tuner #2. I wonder if it changes channels any quicker or slower than the DP34.

.