if he purchased the UPS several years then it is time to at least replace the batteries, they only last 3-4 years in good units. Also if you are having brown outs or power losses then I would put the power inserter on a UPS as well. Would not be a bad idea to put all the clients on one, just to save on the reboots.
Hr44 Freezes Daily, What Is Proper 4 Room Diagram?
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Thanks, and yeah the battery is the original and only has about 10-15 minutes of backup time, without the TV on it, much less with the TV. I think you hit the age on the dot though. I have been trying to save up parts to build my own UPS for my room, but have not gotten around to it yet. There are small UPS's in many of the other rooms but were all intended for the families computers, and the modem/router. My room is the only one that does not have one yet as I want to build my own, and it just happens to be the room with the power injector, lol. When I have time I am going to look at the injector to see if its something easily moved or not. I have not looked at it much since it is sandwiched behind my TV. I agree it needs to be on the UPS with the main HR44 unit.
While readings as high as 155F have been observed in a working unit, I can't help but think that this isn't good for long-term survivability. I can't say I've seen any VLSI devices that were rated for 70C.
What do you mean by "power passing port" on the splitter? So if I remove it from my room and put it near the HR44 I will also need to re-organize the connections on the splitter accordingly? Also, when you said "IF its between the splitter and a receiver"? Isn't that the only place it could be installed, or should it go between the dish and the splitter? This last option is much harder to perform, lol...
It can go about anywhere, as long as it's on the power passing port of the splitter. Look at the splitter and you will see a line, probably red, that goes from the input to one of the outputs. If you move the power inserter make sure it's connected to the cable that connects to that port where the line is.
Yep, there is a red circle indicating the power port. So, the bottom-right port is going to my room with the injector, and the top-right clean connector is the new cable going to the recently added room. One of the two center-right cables are going to the HR44.
So, all I would need to do is find the one that goes to the HR44 and put it on the bottom-right power port, and then move my bedroom cable into the now vacant spot on the splitter. Then install the injector between the HR44 and the incoming cable from the splitter. Sounds simple enough. I think I am going to inspect each connector to make sure they were built correctly.
So, all I would need to do is find the one that goes to the HR44 and put it on the bottom-right power port, and then move my bedroom cable into the now vacant spot on the splitter. Then install the injector between the HR44 and the incoming cable from the splitter. Sounds simple enough. I think I am going to inspect each connector to make sure they were built correctly.
Just move the HR44 cable to the power passing port and move the cable that was there to the now open port.
Thanks Chip for your replies. Once I can get everyone off the system at once I will get this done. The tech finally replied to my texts and said the next time it freezes to do a reset, but it hasn't froze up since I did a manual restart. Today I was looking at the system and it dawned on me that the Power Injector is on the same circuit as a window AC unit, so every time the compressor starts it draws a huge amount of power, and the lights dim for a second in response. That could be why it froze as it might have lost too much power during one of those excessive power draws?
Anyway, I will make sure everything is as it should be and if it freezes again I will be back for more ideas. lol, thanks man
Anyway, I will make sure everything is as it should be and if it freezes again I will be back for more ideas. lol, thanks man
The power inserter on the same circuit could be the issue. An air conditioner should always be on a dedicated circuit, BTW.
No, it shouldn't freeze. There are several possible causes and most of them lie with the Genie or its power brick so you should probably concentrate on the Genie side of things.
As long as it is powered 24/7/365, you can place it anywhere indoors you want.
SWiM is SWiM. If the SWiM switch were the problem, you would likely be seeing a different kind of error condition.
Not likely. You would more likely get a communications error message if that were the issue.
Again, there should be an associated error in this case, not a lockup.
Most of the problems that come from defective components (other than the Genie or its power brick) should cause error messages, not lockups.
Did you ever figure out what the temperature is (although even an over-temperature situation should come with an error message)? Home entertainment ovens are the bane of modern electronic equipment. Remember that most of the power the power brick puts into the Genie ends up coming out in the form of heat inside the Genie. Unlike the receivers of old, the Genie does NOT put any power onto the coaxial cable.
Good advice Harshness, except the last line about the heat. Since the HR44 has an external power supply, the heat inside a Genie should be minimal and has nothing to do with the external power supply.
While the brick isn't imparting heat to the Genie proper (unless it is also housed inside the home entertainment oven), almost all of the electrical energy the power supply puts out is being converted to heat in the Genie. That is probably upwards of 25W of heat coming out of the Genie. Not as hot as an Easy-Bake oven, but it is a much smaller enclosure.
Having the external brick makes the inefficiencies of the power supply less important; it doesn't change how much heat is generated by the normal operation of the DVR.
Of course not, I didn't say it did. Taking the power supply out of the dvr reduces the amount of heat in the dvr.
I didn't say anything about the power supply contributing heat (unless it is also housed in the home entertainment oven). I said that the power supply's output power (>80% of the power it consumes) was almost entirely converted to heat inside the Genie enclosure. What I said was, is and will likely always be true regardless of where the power supply is located.
I agree, if the unit said 155, then it was real close to going out.
There is temperature safety built into the units, typically they go out right around there and don't come back on till they reach about 125* again.
That said, I don't think the subs issue is the temp of his HR44 although he's mentioned it several times now.
Your forgetting that the Genie has a separate External Power brick now, no power supply in the unit itself, it should not run hot.
I would think maybe 125* at the most, probably not that much either.
Just checked mine, it also sits in my Entertainment center with glass doors and it is running 113*
The Genie proper is generating around four times as much heat as the power supply.
All the watts that go into the Genie end up as heat. Physicists call this the Law of Conservation of Energy.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Conservation_of_energy
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