Installation possibilities at site with some cabling installation challenges

manntoff

Member
Original poster
Aug 19, 2013
7
0
Harrington Maine
I would greatly appreciate some help on the following: We live in the 04643 zip code. We are trying to install satellite at wooded site with limited line-of-sight access. The house is already wired with RG-6 cabling to a splitter in the main TV room, one drop for the main TV and two cables going off to two satellite TVs. We wired the house for Direct TV Genie, which we had in our old house, so there is one main wire and one additional wire "just in case" coming in from outside the house (lots of excess wire rolled up outside the house to run to where ever it is needed). The main wire is split to go to the three different locations. Direct TV only needed one wire in. This is a timberframe/insulated panel house so the wiring went in during construction and not much can be changed now.

The Direct TV guy was not able to get a line of sight to the SW at 28 degrees to install a satellite and kindly recommended we call Dish who had more flexibility on satellite angle, he said up to 43 degrees.

We signed up for Hopper with Dish (Main receiver and 2 satellite locations). The Dish installer was just here and told us he needs a wire with a straight run to each location in the house (ie three wires coming in) and they can't be split AND the cable we had coming into the house was not sufficient to even install just the primary Genie receiver since this needs 75 ohm/3 GHz cable and the cable we have (seems to be labeled RG-6/U Type 15 MW@ CL2/CATV <UL> ET% 0005) would "burn up".

The Dish installer suggested installing a standard HD DVR receiver (HD because we need the high angle of that satellite for line of sight). He said the cable we have was ok for that but that we still could not split it to go to satellite receivers in other rooms.

In order to get a line of site we need to make some roof modifications, so installation of anything is on hold for now. Before we have anyone back, I wanted to make sure I understood the cable limitations correctly. Is Genie really out of the running because of cable type? If we get a standard DISH HD DVR, how many cables need to come in from the satellite to the main receiver and can they be split for additional receiver(s)? What HD receiver would you recommend? We still want to use the cabling to the main TV room, but in addition to this might be able to run new cable from the dish to a bedroom. What would that allow us to put in?

I very much appreciate any help or suggestions.
 
Are you confusing DISH HOPPER and Directv Genie receivers in your description? You also need to understand better what you were told or you need to consult some different installers.
 
The Hopper needs 3GHz cable, period. No way around it. Now most RG6 is rated to 3GHz but if it is not specifically labeled as such, internally we are suppose to run new cable.

From the satellite, DISH has to run two cables down to your solo node which also acts as our ground block. From there, if it is just a one Hopper receiver install, we only need that ONE 3GHz cable to the feed the hopper. We can use taps and splitters off that one line to run the joeys and a hic.

If you decided against the Hopper and look into our HD DVRs then you could either get the 612 (One tv hd dvr), a 722 ( two tv one hd one sd dvr), or a 922 (two tv one hd on sd dvr, more features then a 722 but not very reliable). These receivers can use any RG6 cable and in a pinch RG59 will work. With the 722 you can split/mirror the tv2 sd image if you need too.

Sent From My Samsung Hercules
 
My questions relate to Dish Hopper and other Dish receivers. I only mention directv Genie because that is what we had before we moved and what we wired the new house for before we found Directv had no line of sight. I wrote in the initial post exactly what I was told. Is it correct? Are there other options that could be considered?
 
Thank you! Do you think I can convince the installer to try the hopper with existing cable? Is he right that the hopper could burn up the cable if it is not rated for 75 ohms? He said "it may work for a while but will eventually burn up." Seemed odd.
 
No, it will not burn up! That's ridiculous. If it's marginal RG6, you may not be able to use all 3 tuners on the Hopper.
 
Nope, when it comes to the hopper you absolutely must have two 3GHz lines coming into the Solo (or Duo in the case of multiple hoppers) node. From there one line will go to the hopper and the other is a MoCA output for the Joeys. The MoCA output can be split just fine but there can not be any splits before the node.
 
Nope, when it comes to the hopper you absolutely must have two 3GHz lines coming into the Solo (or Duo in the case of multiple hoppers) node. From there one line will go to the hopper and the other is a MoCA output for the Joeys. The MoCA output can be split just fine but there can not be any splits before the node.

the duo node needs 3 lines btw not 2


and there can only be one splitter in line from node client port or the client port on the tap
 
Ok, thank you. So we might be able to install new 3 ghz cable between satellite and node and then use the existing lower rated cable after the node?

If you're only installing a Hopper and no Joeys at all then yes you can do this. If not then you will need one more line (doesn't have to be the RG-6 3GHZ ) to run to the Joey or from the node to a splitter then to the Joeys.
 
That can't be right. The 3GHz cable has to go, not from the dish to the node, but rather between the node and the Hopper, because that's where the triply bandstacked signal is.
 
hmm lets chim in here as an installer. You can run 2250mhz from dish to node and it work fine the main requirement is 3Ghz and certain branded cable only per specs from the Node to the Hopper. It is best to have 3Ghz from dish to node too but it will work fine with 2250mhz to the node.

The issue sounds rather complicated to the installer to the point it may look like a trouble call nightmare... however thinking of how this is run without seeing it or a wiring diagram I would run dual lines from dish to node to start with (even if this is just a few feet away from dish mount - doesn't matter as I've put them right behind the dish before) which the node can go to that single line coming in as long as that is 3Ghz it can be used. If that cable has "Perfect Vision" written on it then that is a big no no - you will have to back the tech up on using it and the tech will have to get approval from a manager but if its 3Ghz it should work fine. Once you get to the hopper location where you say there is a splitter to the other two locations I would add a "Tap" right here behind the hopper and a cable splitter for the two Joey locations you say are coming from this room and that is that should work just fine.

The key here is all about the cables from the node to the hopper...view what I said earlier on that.
 
as a installer myself i would not trust a line that isnt 3ghz for the hopper system at all except for the joeys been on way too many trouble calls from people using 2250 mhz lines from dish to node and node to hopper dont do, the saving from cheap wire or using old wire isnt worth the problems it will cause maybe not right away but they will arrise....
 
as a installer myself i would not trust a line that isnt 3ghz for the hopper system at all except for the joeys been on way too many trouble calls from people using 2250 mhz lines from dish to node and node to hopper dont do, the saving from cheap wire or using old wire isnt worth the problems it will cause maybe not right away but they will arrise....

The cable is. Already installed that they want to use.
 
In you initial post you state that a cable can be ran from dish to a bedroom. Is there a cable that goes from that bedroom to the main TV room?

If so you can have the hopper in that bedroom and joeys in your other rooms by feeding the client line from bedroom to main room and then split from there.
 
I think the look angle is more critical than the cabling. Directv is 240 az. and 29 deg elevation which has already been ruled out. DISH Eastern arc 1000.4 dish needs 204az and 38 deg. elevation is that 9 degrees and a different azimuth even capable? Also in the back of my mind I seem to remember a problem with getting Eastern Arc in Maine. Western Arc is something like a 16 degree elevation which should be treed out.