Installing my first motorized C Band Satellite Dish (w/pictures)

[primestar31]

Gin Pole is the way to go. If you don't have one, you can cobble one with a spare aluminum ladder, a come-along, and some clamps made with muffler u-bolts.

Or you can spend some money to make a proper one, if you are going to mount more large dishes.

 

[Magic Static]

If you don't have one, you can cobble one with a spare aluminum ladder, a come-along, and some clamps made with muffler u-bolts.

I would love to see a picture of that Got one?

 

[RamboHack]

Hey guys i need your help.


i open up my new actuator to install the wires before i go to the roof.

But when i open the actuator there is this 4 white things, i think they are for the limit switches i guess.

But there is this bolt, that is loose:

I tried to puti it in the correct place, but it seems very loose:

Is my actuator broken?



Ohh and bye the way, how should i wire the actuator?

I guess the red and white are the motor wires right? and the two other small wires are for the sensors? am i right?

What should i do with the loose bolt? should i return the actuator?

 

[Magic Static]

That "loose bolt" is the limit switch screw and should not have come apart. You have it backwards in the picture. If it will go in place and remain secure, all is good but if not return it.

 

[primestar31]

I would love to see a picture of that Got one?

Nope, didn't take a pic, but I used this method a few years ago to install a Prodelin 6ft offset dish up on top of a 7ft pole. Pretty exciting, but it did the job! 20 years ago I used the same method with a chain-drive come-along, to install an 11ft fiberglass dish on top of a 15ft pole all alone. That sucked, but I got it done.

 

[RamboHack]

That "loose bolt" is the limit switch screw and should not have come apart. You have it backwards in the picture. If it will go in place and remain secure, all is good but if not return it.
View attachment 129122

Ohh! Thank you! very much Magic Static

I was afraid my actuator was broken, but i followed your instructions and the "loose bolt" now is stong and firm in the right place

 

[RamboHack]

Before i put the wires in the actuator, i wanna ask you guys:

Is this the right way for the wires? i didnt bolt screw the wires yet:
red-red
white-white
GREEN-BROWN
black-black

In my Titanium ASC1 i should connect red and white for the motor right?
And Green Black for the sensors?

Is it good? or somethings wrong

Thank you guys, i really appreciate all your help, without you im lost.

RamboHack
Monterrey, Mexico

 

[Magic Static]

Yes, red and white for the motor. Reverse them if the dish moves west when you wanted east. The other two for the sensor. It doesn't matter which way the sensor wires are hooked up.

 

[RamboHack]

Yes, red and white for the motor. Reverse them if the dish moves west when you wanted east. The other two for the sensor. It doesn't matter which way the sensor wires are hooked up.

Got it, thank you Magic Static!

 

[Titanium]

Be sure to connect the sensor distribution wiring shield (bare drain wire) only on the controller's GND terminal. Leave the other end floating and not connected at the actuator.

 

[waylew]

But when i open the actuator there is this 4 white things

Those appear to be different seals for the cable connector where the wires come into the box.

 

[RamboHack]

Be sure to connect the sensor distribution wiring shield (bare drain wire) only on the controller's GND terminal. Leave the other end floating and not connected at the actuator.

I connect the actuator wires to the Titanium ASC1 this way:

Is this connection ok Titanium? Wires are 4x14 awg.

 

[RamboHack]

Those appear to be different seals for the cable connector where the wires come into the box.

Yes, i used one of them to "seal" the 4x14awg cable, and the other 4, i know its wrong, but i used them to separate the cables inside the actuator

RamboHack
Monterrey, Mexico

 

[N6BY]

You should probably use shielded wires for the sensor (it avoids bogus 'pulses' from local RF interference).

 

[RamboHack]

I have a problem

I really appreciate if anyone can help me

I was reading about how to set the physical limits on my actuator, so i decided to remove the cap from the bottom of the actuator, and found this:

One of the bolts of the switch limit, went up, i guess, and its touching in a badly manner the red wire, its like pushing it rude.

I guess this is NOT OK right?

How should i fix this?

Any help, any advice, im a total newbie in C Band installation

RamboHack
Monterrey, Mexico

 

[KE4EST]

Just move the wire so that it does not touch the rod. Loosen that set screw and pull/push the rod where you need it to set the limit, and tighten it back down.

 

[Titanium]

The distribution wire bundle shown in your photo is not right for the job and is likely to cause problems. Do not run the motor power and the sensor circuit in the same bundle. The motor noise will be picked up by the sensor circuit and result in incorrect counts.

The motor wires should be at least 14g or heavier to make sure your motor receives as much power as possible. The sensor wires could be 18g, but the sensor bundle needs a shield jacket around the s1/s2 wires to shield from the motor wires.

You could keep the current wiring for only motor power and buy some shielded home security wire and run alongside.

 

[RamboHack]

The distribution wire bundle shown in your photo is not right for the job and is likely to cause problems. Do not run the motor power and the sensor circuit in the same bundle. The motor noise will be picked up by the sensor circuit and result in incorrect counts.

The motor wires should be at least 14g or heavier to make sure your motor receives as much power as possible. The sensor wires could be 18g, but the sensor bundle needs a shield jacket around the s1/s2 wires to shield from the motor wires.

You could keep the current wiring for only motor power and buy some shielded home security wire and run alongside.

I know my 4x14AWG is not the right one

but im in the process of buying the correct one: DX Engineering CW1812OR Heavy-Duty Spec Rotator Cable DXE-CW1812OR maybe in a week or 2 i'll get this wire.

Until then i have to use what i have now to install my dish.

 

[Titanium]

You could test and see if it works, but heads-up if you are receiving miscounts.

All old school installs used ribbon cable with separate shielded cable bundles for sensor and polarity servo connection along with two coax cables. Unfortunately, this ribbon cable was discontinued and we have to find a replacement solution. Shielded wire bundles are a best practice and will prevent headaches down the road.

Great product! The DX Engineering wire that is made for actuator control!

Much less expensive option to buy the home security wire at any local home improvement store. Both will work fine.

 

[RamboHack]

You could test and see if it works, but heads-up if you are receiving miscounts.

All old school installs used ribbon cable with separate shielded cable bundles for sensor and polarity servo connection along with two coax cables. Unfortunately, this ribbon cable was discontinued and we have to find a replacement solution. Shielded wire bundles are a best practice and will prevent headaches down the road.

Great product! The DX Engineering wire that is made for actuator control!

Much less expensive option to buy the home security wire at any local home improvement store. Both will work fine.

Ohh! i didnt know i could get miscounts on the actuator

Ok, i had to speed my purchase, and as of right now, i already purchased 50ft (thats the distance from my dish to my tv) fo this cable: DX Engineering CW1812OR Heavy-Duty Spec Rotator Cable DXE-CW1812OR

its gonna take 2 to 6 days to arrive here in Mexico. Until then im gonna use (but not install) the actual 4x14 awg i already have. First i have to install the actuator today, then find my azimuth satellite, then fine tune all the satellites etc etc etc... a lot of work still to do.

One question:

If i used the 4x14awg cable i already have to program the satellites in my ASC1, am i gonna have a problem with satellite positions when i switch to the DX Engineering cable? i mean, satellites not in the correct orbital actuator position? or should i wait till i get my new cable to programm satellites in ASC1?

RamboHack
Monterrey, Mexico