RG-6 connectors

Me and my damn bamboo no more trees my view now from my house to my buddy who lives behind me

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I thought I must be doing something wrong. But you guys have the same experience as I do. It's easy to strip the cable but pushing on the connector to the proper location just hurts my fingers and hand especially if multiple cables need to be made.

I'm following this thread closely for any recommendations.

Al Rovner K7AR

Sent from my Pixel 6a using Tapatalk
 
I thought I must be doing something wrong. But you guys have the same experience as I do. It's easy to strip the cable but pushing on the connector to the proper location just hurts my fingers and hand especially if multiple cables need to be made.

I'm following this thread closely for any recommendations.

Al Rovner K7AR

Sent from my Pixel 6a using Tapatalk
Hi Al, I use a female to female connector to get a little "leverage" if you will. Sometimes I place the barrel connector in a socket. 7/16's if I recall correctly. This method saves your hands a bit.

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Sometimes you have to be smarter than the coax. How tight? How much bigger is the insulation? A lot? Get the right connectors. Close, but no ceegar? Heat the jacket a few inches back with a Bic. Grab it and stretch it out over the end. It will make it thinner. Strip, slip, and crimp.
 
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Sometimes you have to be smarter than the coax. How tight? How much bigger is the insulation? A lot? Get the right connectors. Close, but no ceegar? Heat the jacket a few inches back with a Bic. Grab it and stretch it out over the end. It will make it thinner. Strip, slip, and crimp.
When you got a bunch to do, it only pisses you off
 
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Its appears lately that coax for outdoor use has a very stiff outer jacket. The cable tech was recently at our home and he changed one connecter. Guess what he used a bic lighter to soften the cable end and slide the compression fitting on. Of course you don't want to overheat the coax and melt the foam inner insulation!
 
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In the image of the original post, the cable preparation is just too sloppy, and this is why your connectors will not push on. Your coax stripper tool needs to make 2 cuts, 1 cutting the outer pvc jacket and the other cutting down to the dilectric (white portion). This portion of the coax (dilectric) pushes into the connector until it is flush with the nut bottom of the connector. So if this is not neat and clean it wont push in. Check out the pics.

The center conductor should be 1/4 in long, the dilectric also should be 1/4 inch long.

To reduce cable insertion force: Evenly flare and separate the braid.

Cable dielectric should be flush with the bottom of the nut.

When done correctly (and with connectors to match the cable type) the connectors should push on and will be a little difficult to push on, but not so difficult you need to bust your fingers.

Hope this helps.

P.S. Make sure not even one strand of the braid touches the center conductor, if this happens you will have no signal whatsoever!
 

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I find that holding the stubborn compression connector with a pair of adjustable pliers and the coax in the other hand takes a lot of pressure off the fingers. Twisting and turning the combination often works for me. Still a little applied heat goes a long way.