SG2100 motor maximum weight limit

ILoveSats

SatelliteGuys Pro
Original poster
Jan 28, 2023
167
48
America

I recently inquired about the weight limit of the Moteck SG2100 and received the following:

"The maximum weight limit for the SG2100 motor is 15 kilograms (approximately 33 pounds). This weight limit ensures the motor's reliable and efficient operation. It is important not to exceed this weight limit to prevent any potential damage or performance issues."

Does this info appear accurate? Just want to fact check. That's all.


Thanks!
 
Yes...and try to keep it as far away from that as possible.
 
Yes...and try to keep it as far away from that as possible.
I have a Channel Master 1 meter dish (you'll see it in one of my recent threads) and from my research this is gonna be close.

I wonder what other alternatives I might have?
 
I have a Channel Master 1 meter dish (you'll see it in one of my recent threads) and from my research this is gonna be close.

I wonder what other alternatives I might have?
1 meter dish should work fine. What can be bad, is WIND LOAD on the dish. That adds to the weight limit, and can cause the motor to fail early. So, if at all possible, try to install it in an area where you can limit how much wind might blow on the dish. Maybe with heavy bushes surrounding it, but not blocking the satellite arc.
 
1 meter dish should work fine. What can be bad, is WIND LOAD on the dish. That adds to the weight limit, and can cause the motor to fail early. So, if at all possible, try to install it in an area where you can limit how much wind might blow on the dish. Maybe with heavy bushes surrounding it, but not blocking the satellite arc.
Then the next thing to figure out is how to mount the motor on to the dish as the mount that came with the dish sits on top of the pole.
 
I've owned and used my SG2100 for 12 years. Over that time it has turned a Fortec Star 1.2-metre and a Star Choice 1-metre dish. The 1.2-metre dish weighs 17 kg (37 lbs). The motor has worked OK but I wouldn't recommend this combination. My dishes were always well shielded from the wind and mounted low to the ground.

The motor is currently turning the 1-metre dish and this works fine. When using a feedline of 100 feet or longer, sometimes I must select only a horizontal transponder to turn the dish since then 18 volts or so is passed to the motor rather than when selecting a vertical transponder which uses more like about 13 volts. This could probably be resolved by using better quality RG-6.

DSC04715.JPG
 
Morning. It's me the geek. I wish I had a junk but working H-H motor to tinker with.
The link below from here and the schematic is very interesting. I think there's another thread that covered what sparked my interest a few years ago.
Perform a little surgery with an external power source to feed the h-bridge motor reversing relays and a few components, max. And run a 2 conductor wire to the mover, fed with 18 volts.
It would close to 100% eliminate the receiver needing to supply power over coax to run the mover electronics/motor.
If you look and can read a schematic. It would take you 2 minutes, tops.
The point being that all of the lnbf/diseqc/usals voltage and current out the coax comes from the receiver ic and is about the size of a postage stamp. And it also performs the voltage boost from the 12 volt wall wart to 18 or so volts.

 
The link below from here and the schematic is very interesting. I think there's another thread that covered what sparked my interest a few years ago.
Perform a little surgery with an external power source to feed the h-bridge motor reversing relays and a few components, max. And run a 2 conductor wire to the mover, fed with 18 volts.
It would close to 100% eliminate the receiver needing to supply power over coax to run the mover electronics/motor.
If you look and can read a schematic. It would take you 2 minutes, tops.

I guess you mean this ("positioner heart surgery"): Digipower SG2100 DMSI SUPPORT

PS. A somewhat sharper version of the schematic of the sg2100 is here: SG2100 Woes


If you can read the schematic, and don't want to exceed the regular 18 Volts, another option comes to mind, I would say.
Not inserting the external power at the plus-voltage-relais-contacts (needing 3 cuts, and two extra jumper cables), as in the link above,
but inserting the external power already at the V+ (needing just one cut, and no extra jumper cables, if I 'read' the circuit board correctly).
In that case, the collector/emitter ports of Q1 and Q2, and the relay coils (plus extinction diodes), also use the external power. No problem, though, I would think, if at least the external power supply doesn't insert RF signal as well.

Greetz,
A33
 
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I guess you mean this ("positioner heart surgery"): Digipower SG2100 DMSI SUPPORT

PS. A somewhat sharper version of the schematic of the sg2100 is here: SG2100 Woes


If you can read the schematic, and don't want to exceed the regular 18 Volts, another option comes to mind, I would say.
Not inserting the external power at the plus-voltage-relais-contacts (needing 3 cuts, and two extra jumper cables), as in the link above,
but inserting the external power already at the V+ (needing just one cut, and no extra jumper cables, if I 'read' the circuit board correctly).
In that case, the collector/emitter ports of Q1 and Q2, and the relay coils (plus extinction diodes), also use the external power. No problem, though, I would think, if at least the external power supply doesn't insert RF signal as well.

Greetz,
A33
Oh no. I was just looking at and thinking "what if". And I see the mod is done a couple of different ways.
I do a bit of business with jlpcb and pcbway. Mostly for audio equipment. Stereo receivers basically. For simple low current power switching of them when the unobtanuim power/selector switch contacts are taking a beating.
Another simple circuit for adding speaker delay and protection that currently depends on fuses.
Anyhoo. I see an add-on board with a couple of mosfets and voltage/current regulation. Kind of simple really.
Would require cutting a few traces and adding wires to the daughter board. Offloading the relay coil and motor on/off switching transistors.
Those would then turn the relays on and spin the motor from the 2 wire external power supply.
Then again, I don't have an H-H motor to piddle with.