Help me verify my order for Hopper3

judyintexas

SatelliteGuys Family
Original poster
Feb 8, 2007
84
28
Hi folks, I saw you helped a previous poster confirm what he was planning to order and I would appreciate that help too. We are moving from a VIP622 and a 322.

We have a main TV which we just upgraded to a Samsung QN55Q7, which can do 4K. My thought is to connect the Hopper3 to it, to have at least two tuners on this TV. (The TV can actually do 4 channels in 4 windows, but I don't know if the Hopper3 can support this. I think we can live with a main channel and PIP.) Dish tells me that they will bring an appropriate HDMI cable. The 2006 TV that died was HDMI, but I know there are new standards and I had planned to get a new cable, but apparently I don't need to do that.

The second TV is in the kitchen. It is an old component set that uses the 322, so there is a coax connector for a wired Joey. I do not need 4K here, but when this TV dies I will get an HD one. I was thinking of the wired Joey here, which I assume would be the 2.0. Do you agree?

The third TV is new, a 30" HDTV that I would like to be able to move around, so wireless Joey here.

I think we would prefer the number 40 remote. It is laid out like the one we have with the 622 and we are fine with it. We have never needed backlighting. If we decide we want to talk to the Hopper, we can always upgrade.

The main TV is in a cabinet that is 2' deep and 51" wide. Given that the stand for this TV extends back 11", but only in the center of the TV, we have put the connector box that this TV uses behind the TV, to one side of the rear projection of the stand. I am thinking of putting the Hopper3 and the Wireless Access Point behind the TV too, on the other side. Does this sound o.k.? Given that the Hopper remote is RF, it seems to me that this will work, right?. I had the 622 in the cabinet that is part of the built-in entertainment center, but I understand that this was a poor choice for the 622 and is also a poor choice for the Hopper. Our only other choice is on top of the cabinet that houses the audio components and the BD player, but the Hopper3 and the Joey access point would make the top of the cabinet cluttered and would displace the speaker that sits up there.

Have I missed something I should specify, or would you recommend other choices? Thank you for your help.

BTW, we really like the Q7. We changed the out-of-the box picture preset last night because the picture kept setting itself darker as the sun went down until we could hardly make out the picture, but setting it from "Standard" to "Normal" took care of that. Most of the reviewers say to use "Movie," but our eyes are pretty bad and Movie has softer edges and is less contrasty. The sound is superb for a TV that is 2" thick, and I haven't connected the ZVOX sound bar yet. We were hurrying to watch the football games and everything we have watched has had a great picture.
 
We have a main TV which we just upgraded to a Samsung QN55Q7, which can do 4K. My thought is to connect the Hopper3 to it, to have at least two tuners on this TV. (The TV can actually do 4 channels in 4 windows, but I don't know if the Hopper3 can support this. I think we can live with a main channel and PIP.)
Both of those features are built-into the Hopper 3, so there is no need to use your TV's features.

The second TV is in the kitchen. It is an old component set that uses the 322, so there is a coax connector for a wired Joey. I do not need 4K here, but when this TV dies I will get an HD one. I was thinking of the wired Joey here, which I assume would be the 2.0. Do you agree?
You should probably get the Joey 3, which is smaller and faster than the older model.

I think we would prefer the number 40 remote. It is laid out like the one we have with the 622 and we are fine with it. We have never needed backlighting. If we decide we want to talk to the Hopper, we can always upgrade.
Hopper 3 and Joeys come with the 54.0 remote standard now. If you have line-of-sight to control your Hopper by infrared, then your old remote from the 622 would still work. You would have to go into the Hopper's menu and make sure infrared reception is turned on, and set the remote address on your old remote to number 1. You could always purchase 40.0 remotes elsewhere if you would prefer to do that instead.
 
A few things. If the Kitchen TV only has a coax connector, make sure the tech brings, or get one yourself, and RF Modulator to connect the Joey to it. Coax outputs are non existing on new receivers.

Your chances of getting 40 remotes from the tech are slim to most probably none. All the receivers you're getting come with 54 remotes - which are quite nice, actually
If the tech is a DNS tech or most RSP's, he'll have 8' Audioquest Pearl HDMI cables, which you can buy for 40 bucks. They are superb.

Also, all the Hoppers and Joeys use UHF, not IR for the remotes. As long as it's ventilated, you can "hide" your receivers. The Joey 2 will come with a mounting plate, if you get a Joey 3, they have the mounting holes and you can possibly find a way to mount your Hopper behind your TV, if it's wall mounted. It's takes some craftiness, But I've seen it plenty of times.
 
Thank you very much to both of you.

First about the remotes. We had a technician out for the 622 last week, and he was great and said to ask for him to install the Hoppers. He said he had a number of the 40 remotes and bring us two (we have two of the 622 remotes now and whichever of us is paying attention can mute the ads). The reason I want the 40 remotes is that the button layout is just like the ones we have now, and my husband is used to the buttons.

Question: Is the 40 remote RF or IR? That would make a difference, given that we want to stow the Hopper out of sight.

HipKat, the kitchen TV has the three-cable connection, component from the receiver to the TV. When I said coax I was referring to the way the Joey would connect to the wall.

I understand that both the Joey 2 and Joey 3 support both component and HDMI, so I will definitely check whether to get the Joey 3. Thank you for the recommendation!
 
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Thank you very much to both of you.

First about the remotes. We had a technician out for the 622 last week, and he was great and said to ask for him to install the Hoppers. He said he had a number of the 40 remotes and bring us two (we have two of the 622 remotes now and whichever of us is paying attention can mute the ads). The reason I want the 40 remotes is that the button layout is just like the ones we have now, and my husband is used to the buttons.

Question: Is the 40 remote RF or IR? That would make a difference, given that we want to stow the Hopper out of sight.

HipKat, the kitchen TV has the three-cable connection, component from the receiver to the TV. When I said coax I was referring to the way the Joey would connect to the wall.

I understand that both the Joey 2 and Joey 3 support both component and HDMI, so I will definitely check whether to get the Joey 3. Thank you for the recommendation!
The Joeys support 'composite" not 'component' cables. Composite cabling has red, white and yellow tips. They are used with standard definition TVs. If you have an HDTV in your kitchen with only 'component' inputs, red, blue, and green, you will need to do a bit more. If that were the case, I would opt to buy an inexpensive HD flat screen to replace the old TV.
 
Get the HDMI cable yourself if it truly is $40 from Dish - that is a ripoff. Amazon has several well-reviewed ones anywhere from $5 to $10 for most lengths you may need.
Joey 3 is much faster than Joey 2.
I like the 54 remote more than 40 now, though 40 does have more buttons for easier access to few functions.
Best to confirm Joey/remote when you place the order (or before the tech comes out), so they are sure to have it.
 
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The Joeys support 'composite" not 'component' cables. Composite cabling has red, white and yellow tips. They are used with standard definition TVs. If you have an HDTV in your kitchen with only 'component' inputs, red, blue, and green, you will need to do a bit more. If that were the case, I would opt to buy an inexpensive HD flat screen to replace the old TV.
I bought an inexpensive HD flat screen. (from Goodwill) It only has component inputs for HD. :crying
 
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