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It was nice to have the old marks to work off of. I just popped the motor in, hung the dish, and called it done!

Installed the replacement motor on the marks on the original mount, and all is as it should be. Life is good.

I'm pretty sure that it was an SG-2100, so I ordered a replacement as a birthday present to myself. The upside is that I have a box of usable spare parts (motor, gears, etc) if this one craps out after the warranty is up. Another nice this is that I didn't remove the mount from the pole, or...

Yup, that's them. Do they last?

How's that motor working? Some on Ebay and wondering if the plastic is holding up. ally

No reset switch. Dry as a bone. Simply will not move in one direction regardless of command source (other than going to zero) Dead. Kaput. Paperweight. Boat sinker. Flat tire. I repaired a lot of undocumented equipment as a Coast Guard electronics technician, and this one is not worth it...

No joy on either option. It's heading to the scrap bin in the morning, and I'll set the dish on Galaxy 16 for the time being. Many thanks the recommendations though! Al

Motor runs in both directions: west by drive, and east by return-to-zero, so no fault of relays or driver. Thanks though!

Nice to see that there is still interest in EMWIN. I sold my system in 2009 when I retired from the Coast Guard, and I wasn't inclined to spend the $ to migrate to the new system. FYI, I ran it on a 1m dish from my apartment balcony in Arlington VA. I use the Internet data stream now feeding...

Last note, and then I'm putting this to rest. The marking "DXM-7000" points to the true OEM in China. Apparently folks are either slapping their private labels on these, or importing them and installing them with their own firmware. That would explain the two socketed I.C.s It's dead Jim...

The larger I.C. is a Holtek HT48R30A 24-pin 8-bit microcontroller. Again, a programmed device that would not benefit from being swapped out. I'm going to take a break from this for a while. I have the feeling that I'm at a dead end since the two "smart parts" require programming.

The smaller 8-pin DIP is an Atmel AT93C56A-10PU-2.7 EEPROM. It would likely contain the base function programming for the larger I.C. No sense replacing it since I would only have a blank slate to work with. (NOTE: Further research shows that this is now an obsolete part) Now to try and...

After sleeping on it, I deduced one "rule" regarding the return-to-zero function. The casting steps from high to low at the zero point. The switch opens or closes at that step point. The motor knows the direction to travel based on the state of the switch, and the motor stops travel precisely...

Well, that didn't work. I got down to the limit switches, opened them, burnished the contacts (I have a tool for that), and put it all back together. The switches are fragile, so I ended up using a hemostat and squinting a lot to work with them. What I know so far: 1. Both the limit switch...

Not all addresses respond to ping. It's frequently disabled intentionally since it's a vulnerability for a Denial Of Service (DOS) attack.

We had a break in the weather, and I was able to store the dish in the barn while the motor is on the bench. It appears to be an electromechanical failure of the limit switch. All of the parts move freely without binding or play, and no sign of wear on the nylon rotor gear. The worm gear...

Sent it to zero and tried the two-button-reset trick: no joy. Disconnected power, pressed both buttons, reconnected power: no joy. After much kneeling in snow and freezing my paws off, it's not getting any more of my attention for now. And now is not the season to take it off the pole and bench...

Actually, that's the LED. I could see it go red as soon as I pushed the EAST button. :( Tomorrow I'll try to do the push-both-buttons-at-the-same-time trick while applying power. I have a plan on how to do it myself :D

That raises a small problem: Where is the RESET button? I went out, sent it to zero, and went looking for the button. I used a nylon stick through the four vent holes to no avail. Pressing the EAST button made the LED go red. (I sent it west w/o a problem, and it goes east w/o difficult...

Heavy snow for now, but I did get a chance to try the two motor control buttons. They both work. I suspect that a decoder chip in the housing has failed. I've worked on more sophisticated electronics over the years, but I'm going to sit on this until spring. I'll "shotgun" the board (in the...

Fair question! Yes, I'm using USALS, and yes, the LAT and LON are in correctly. The birds west of zero all line up well.

Well, I sent the dish east to 0 (zero) from the receiver without any trouble. And I was able to scan/view birds as I moved west. But no joy driving the dish to the east from the receiver. I'll try the buttons in the morning, and put the motor, weather permitting.

I use an independent power supply when I test the motor, so the voltage is the same and constant. The weather was foul enough that I didn't hang around to try the buttons, but I will try tomorrow if the weather clears up some. Good pointer! Great idea! I'll try that too when I can get to...

My H-H motor suddenly quit moving. (So sad) I went outside with my STAB hand-held controller and tried to see what was going on. I pressed GOTO 0 and the dish traveled east to zero. I pressed the west button and the dish went west. I pressed the east button and the dish did nothing. I...

The replacement Ku LNBF arrives Wednesday; a 22 kHz switch should work fine then. That said, the Ku LNBF is the termination for the H-H motor line. It's really not practical to pull another coax to be dedicated exclusively to the H-H motor. The C-band dish is on the opposite end of the...