Weird kind of H-H motor failure.

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The smaller 8-pin DIP is an Atmel AT93C56A-10PU-2.7 EEPROM. It would likely contain the base function programming for the larger I.C. No sense replacing it since I would only have a blank slate to work with. (NOTE: Further research shows that this is now an obsolete part)

Now to try and read the lettering on the larger I.C.
 
The larger I.C. is a Holtek HT48R30A 24-pin 8-bit microcontroller. Again, a programmed device that would not benefit from being swapped out.

I'm going to take a break from this for a while. I have the feeling that I'm at a dead end since the two "smart parts" require programming.
 
Last note, and then I'm putting this to rest. The marking "DXM-7000" points to the true OEM in China. Apparently folks are either slapping their private labels on these, or importing them and installing them with their own firmware. That would explain the two socketed I.C.s

It's dead Jim.

I'll ditch the motor and set the dish on NHK until my finances improve.
 
I do use a simular motor (DG-120) at my lnb changer and it happens that some time it refuses to go in one direction , a short click to the other direction is the solution . I think thats a faulty contactor issiu (by me)
Some receivers have a reset option in the motor menu , did you tried that ?
 
I do use a simular motor (DG-120) at my lnb changer and it happens that some time it refuses to go in one direction , a short click to the other direction is the solution . I think thats a faulty contactor issiu (by me)
Some receivers have a reset option in the motor menu , did you tried that ?

No joy on either option. It's heading to the scrap bin in the morning, and I'll set the dish on Galaxy 16 for the time being. Many thanks the recommendations though! Al
 
Not clear if this motor has a reset switch or not, but I have a similar motor with a reset switch that I removed, it had become intermittant due to moisture contamination. The reset switch was the problem, removed it and the unit worked fine. If after that if I needed to reset the unit I would drive it to zero and turn off the LNB power and turn it back on a moment later. Seemed to work.

Maybe check the board for evedence of moisture... might be something that can be cleaned up.

Have you been able to get it to work using diseqc positioning?
 
No reset switch.
Dry as a bone.
Simply will not move in one direction regardless of command source (other than going to zero)

Dead. Kaput. Paperweight. Boat sinker. Flat tire.

I repaired a lot of undocumented equipment as a Coast Guard electronics technician, and this one is not worth it. Yes, I could reverse engineer a schematic around the obsolete parts, but why? It's worth more as scrap metal than me spending hours trying to breath life into a 10+ year old motor. I'm much better off using the time to shovel snow, work on the car, or look up at a blue sky.

However, I do appreciate your recommendations since I know that you're just trying to help :)

Not clear if this motor has a reset switch or not, but I have a similar motor with a reset switch that I removed, it had become intermittant due to moisture contamination. The reset switch was the problem, removed it and the unit worked fine. If after that if I needed to reset the unit I would drive it to zero and turn off the LNB power and turn it back on a moment later. Seemed to work.

Maybe check the board for evedence of moisture... might be something that can be cleaned up.

Have you been able to get it to work using diseqc positioning?
 
I'm pretty sure that it was an SG-2100, so I ordered a replacement as a birthday present to myself. The upside is that I have a box of usable spare parts (motor, gears, etc) if this one craps out after the warranty is up. Another nice this is that I didn't remove the mount from the pole, or the shaft from the dish, so I can just attach the dish to the new motor, and mount the motor to the old marks. In a perfect world (I WANT A PERFECT WORLD), that should be the end of it and happiness will reign supreme again.
 
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