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I see lots of ads on CL from Lake Elsinore, CA here in Montana. 100% of them are scams. When I see Lake Elsinore it means Flag this ad.

IF.....when I do, I'll post a link here.

Considering what the last one on eBay sold for I'm half tempted to sell a couple myself. ;)

As I suspected. Reset the VBox to clear the programming and reprogram without using P1 ~ P4. Naturally you will have to change position numbers in the receiver too if you are wanting to use DiSEqC 1.2. If you are just using the remote to move the dish than you can just disconnect the coax from...

If you have a VBox positioner on the C-Band dish, it could be your problem. Most VBoxes are compatible with DiSEqC 1.0 commands for P1 ~ P4. This function is automatically enabled when you cut power(unplug) the VBox. Until the VBox receives a DiSEqC 1.2 command it responds to DiSEqC 1.0 for 1~4...

I have 1-1/2" conduit for the cabling on one of my C-Band dishes. In that conduit are a ribbon cable with two coaxes motor cable and polarotor cable. Also a siamese twin coax and a single coax for the OTA antenna attached to the back of the dish mount. I used four coaxes for a Bullseye II ortho...

Put a "fish line" in with your cables in case you need to add anything later.

The simple way is to use ortho feeds instead of the corotor.

Some signals through the VBox and some around it. ;)

As far as the limit set issue, I'm not familiar with that receiver but the 5000 number should represent the counts received from the sensor. Since the sensor is bad the counts don't change and the dish won't move so you can't set the limits yet. About marking the magnet wheel and locating the...

For the AJAK sensor I use the LittelFuse "FLEX-14-15-20AT" Unlike most glass reeds the leads are flexible and won't break the glass when bent. You have to be close to the original to support the 10 counts with one revolution of the five magnet wheel like the original...

Yes those are the limit switches and diodes. The switches stop the current flowing to the motor when the pin on the ends of the big gear hit the levers on the switches. The diodes allow the current to flow in the opposite direction when the switches cut power to the motor in one direction.

Looking at the picture you posted, they are crawling in between the feedhorn cover and the scalar ring through a gap created by the LNB support arms.

I don't have them here. I gave the Zenith dish to EmCommSat . I don't think he set it up yet. Maybe he can give you the measurements.

I have a Pinnacle on an AJAK and I just picked up the panels for one a few days ago. But no mount. :( however I did recover a Zenith branded Pinnacle a few years ago. Same dish and brackets. They are 90 degree angle brackets with one end cut at an angle following the curve of the dish.

Some of the pics I have.

Chris, I've been giving your uncle Don's satellite stuff away for years. I posted a lot of pictures on the forum. There are some good pieces out at the horse pasture too. I should go out there and grab one of those 1.8M Channel Masters in the stock truck. There are several 1.2M CMs in a shed out...

An oldie but a goodie ;) Looks like an old LNA setup. You will need to upgrade that.

Like 907tech commented, my Channel Master has aluminum channel to secure the mesh too. True, the surface is not as perfect as a spun aluminum dish but it still works well :)

Looks like you could find some thin aluminum strap. Drills holes down the middle and secure with rivets or screws to the center of the rib. Insert the panels and take a plastic mallet and bend the edges down to crimp the mesh in place.

Yes you do have a problem. BTW those are not magnets, they are the motor brushes that pass electrical current to the spinning armature.

It is a Ku orthomode wave guide. For what purpose would you want to connect 3 or 4 together? https://www.satelliteguys.us/xen/attachments/kuortho5-jpg.150919/

The only one I see is 139W but there are a few over the Atlantic. 37.5W NSS 10, 24.5W Intelsat 905, 20.0W NSS 7 (inc. 4.8°), 5.0W Eutelsat 5 West A

If what you are wanting to get is circular C-Band and linear KU Band then those co-rotors will work. What will you use to control polarity with these units?

Probably super-glued in place. Grab it with a pair of pliers and snap it out of there ;) Like a dentist pulling a tooth. There are no circular C-Band transmissions in my line of sight, 55.5W ~ 139W and like most folks here don't use a dielectric slab and have no knowledge of using one.