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The following is for those of us who didn't have to learn the Metric system in school. :) "I spent a LOT of time tweaking the focal point and the taper. At the moment my best overall setting has the front of the scalar rings" 40.5511 inches "from the dish center and the dual ortho feed mouth...

Reflectivity is the same whether light or microwaves. The point is to find the focal point of that reflectivity, and yes, you would have to re-aim the dish at the arc again, but you would have the precise focal point to set the scalar. If you want to do the research, I did prove the focal...

I saved the poles from ground level up on the ones I retrieved. But then, I was going to attach them to NPRMs for my roof. But you are correct, the upper part with the plate in the pole for bolting the cap on is essential. :)

I had no problems getting Hispasat at 30W with my Birdviews using the H-H mount that came with it, and there was still room to travel. I am at 90.7W with 91W being my TSS. The dish wouldn't flop, but you do have to be careful as Phlatwound said above, the rack gear will dig into the back of the...

Great pictures, and yes, it was a little muggy that day. Some days are like that around here. I was just thankful that most of the morning it was raining and half way decent. :eek: Glad you made it home safely! :cool:

I'm sure there are those trying to figure out a way to get here and snag one off the roof. Back to the subject at hand. When setting up a satellite in the receiver for the orthomode setup like I sold you, I usually have the C-band lnbs set on the 22Khz off side, and the Ku lnbs set on the...

On one side of the 4x4 switch there will be 2 inputs from the LNB, one for 13V which will be for Vertical, and the other for 18V which will be for Horizontal and it will have no markings for 22Khz. On the other side of the switch, there will be 2 inputs from the LNB, one for 13V which will be...

If you want to fly me out there and back, pay for lodging, and food expenses, I'll bring some switches, hook everything up, and teach you everything I know. :)

I told you it was worth your while. :)

Total elevation measured on the back of the dish is 47.64° -5.81 declination angle. Which means the elevation bar should be at 41.83 degrees. To be set at 91W which is your True South Satellite. The LNBF skew angle should be twisted from facing the dish to the left at 1.59° which isn't much...

I didn't know whether the flashlight trick would work or not, but I figured it was worth a try. Now you can rest easy, and as long as it ain't warped, you have a heck of a dish. :cool:

Thanks! Even though I am "downsizing", and moving, I doubt very seriously that I'll be leaving the hobby altogether. :) I'm sure there will be lots of stories coming from me about fights with HOA's and municipalities, and yes perhaps even some landlords. :eek: Here is a thread that explains...

I have some things that might interest you. First, I have some polarotor/co-rotor stand-alone control boxes that will control the polarity and skew from inside the house. It uses the same wires as the old analog receivers uses minus the receiver. :) Secondly, if you just want that...

I've got just what you need to fix your dish right up. :) I got this mount from a newer model Channel Master SMC a few years ago that was on the roof of a high school in St. Louis county. A construction crew was adding on to the school, and re-doing the roof. They set the dish, NPRM and...

I thought I would post some pictures of what my "medium" AJAK H-H 180 looks like. BTW, this AJAK, the 10 foot Unimesh dish that sets on it, and the NPRM it is mounted on are all for sale in the Classified Section. :)

The difference is in the design for mounting it to the pole. The main gear, chain, and motor are the same, just the actuator place between the AJAK and the pole apparatus are different. It looks strange because ring is swung all the way over to the side. It would be more clear if you can...

It is the big AJAK H-H 180. The medium size has 3 chains, instead of just the one chain and gear. It is a very nice dish mover. If it is setup correctly on the arc, there is no need for an actuator adjustment for the elevation, unless you are trying to receive satellites not in the Clarke...

We had a couple of threads a few years ago on the subject of counts or pulses across the arc. I just looked up one of my threads on the subject, and that thread is a great place to start. You can find it here.

I had a 6 foot home-made steel dish setting on 107W for over a year. It was painted white, but I never had a problem with signals.

Paint the dish with a flat black or flat charcoal gray paint, and see if it's not reflecting sun blockage into the feed-horn. :yikes:

I think your qualifications might just put you in the running for Prez, but don't forget about Phlatwound either. :)

Quote by Stogie5150 As soon as I sell my 2 Birdview dishes, I will have to step down as President as Stogie says. I think that a nice way to pick a new President would be to meet some criteria. 1. List all the Birdview dishes you have and what you had to do to get them. IE. drive to...

That's really quite a good idea, but the whole theory of USALS won't work on a normal linear actuator system, simply because the amount of pulses between satellites is not uniform across the arc. The USALS idea will only work on AJAK, Birdview, or similar true H-H mounts/motors that have a...

I think the answer is really pretty simple. :) The receivers all have the logic built into them. The motors all know how to respond to the logic. The answer is figuring out a gear reduction system perhaps involving a sprocket/gear on the shaft of a SG2100 or similar motor, with a sprocket/gear...

I think this might be your problem. RHCP shoud be equal to Vertical reception, and LHCP should be equal to Horizontal reception. Try turning the feed-horn 90 degrees and see if that helps.