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If you're in the Miami metro area I can assure you will have 5G interference. This will make installing your BUD much more difficult in terms of locating and locking a signal. Food for thought, you most likely will need 5G filters.

I'm glad that the C138 fixed your issues. Are you located in a top 50 tv market? I tried one recently also and while it did provide improvement, it did not solve the problem. In my case I believe it is because of my location being in the City and too close to all these towers..I don't know...

If that feature works the way you describe it would certainly be a nice feature. Most receivers I've seen it needs to entered manually except when doing a blind scan since I haven't seen "auto" when doing manual scan. Good info, thanks

Mine defaults to off also. I'll keep trying with the pilot off. Thanks to all.

unfortunately I have not been able to hit it trying it both on and off. I'm searching for it so I'm not exactly sure that I'm not hitting it, I could be going by it and missing it. Is it supposed to be on or off for the 4020 freq on F3. I've been trying searching trying both with no luck...

Trying to locate the Canadian feeds that were relocated to F3 @ 118.8W on 4020V and haven't been able to get a signal. My receiver has a Pilot on or pilot off setting for DVB-S2 which I never understood what it means or does. Does anyone else out there have a pilot setting on their receiver to...

the price is good but the size is small. I hope you aren't dissappointed after doing all the work of setup and tuning. I tested a 7.5 footer also and took it down because it was not getting some of the signals and wasn't as strong as the 10' er. If I had to give someone my opinion it would be...

it looks just like my dish. A 10' SAMI. good luck with the removal and transport.

I went to skyvisions website and found no such offer. Is it still in effect or has the offer been pulled?

I read all the way thru this thread to see how you made out with the scaffling? I got one that I need to take down also and that was the way I had planned to do it. Not sure where I'm gonna get the scaffolds though.

LMAO - but I think you're dead on. I prefer the location rather than name as the original poster says. Location don't change - names do. Just my 2c.

I just wanted to that all the good folks here who took the time to post replies and help out as this thread winds down. you've all been very helpful. I'm looking forward to being able to return the favors to other members.

cool. and I still have my uni manual so I can always refer to that also. great info, thanks. now all I gotta do is buy the lnbf and start testing it out.

really? would the uni send the lnbf the differet voltages to get it to switch back and forth horiz and vert. ? that would be cool. I've always started on the 2 shopping channels also and if you move it over to 133W there is a long standing religious channel on transp. 11 which also helps. thanks

yes I suppose you are correct. I'm just used to doing it the old fashioned way I guess. I also started out in the mid 90's with a Uniden super 4500 which I still use today. It's hard to imagine that receiver not being a part of the system anymore. thanks

no prob, thanks for the input. maybe im missing something here but, I mean when you change your actuator you really don't know where you are. If you had ITC picture available you could slowly move the dish around until you started seeing a picture, that is what I meant. to me it would seem...

again thanks you've been really helpful. I'm almost sold on the lnbf idea but I have 1 concern. I occasionally have to revert to some analog ITC channels ie.. when you change your jack arm and need to start all over. how would you find anything without seeing those ITC channels to somewhat...

so the analog is kept strictly as a dish mover with no polarity control - is it possible to get an inline dc block, I've only seen a dc block on a splitter.

@ fatair - you first talk about the 741 being for c/ku but at the end you talk about a dual C/ku orthmode. which one would I need to convert?

you've said a mouthful for sure - let me re read all of that and see if I can make sense of it.

so if I am now using a single pass voltage 2 way splitter and not sending any voltage to the DBS box would I need to remove that and go with a standard splitter with power passing on both sides? Do they make one of these that accepts C and Ku band lnb's? thanks fat air

@ fat air, what would I need to do to upgrade to an lnbf? does it have to be tied to the gbox? Is this the same as the bullseye feed Ive read about?

pretty cool. but do you have to change the knob when you switch polarities. seems like using an IrD would be less cumbersome

again great feedback. now that you have given me that idea, I do believe that I can spin the feed around without having to unbolt the scaler from the feed support arms which is what I did last friday. I believe that there is a small allen screw which secures the feed to the scaler. again, not...

after I read your post again, maybe I don't have the 0 default skew. would a 0 default skew system go +/ - 45 or 90? My skew settings go 0 to + 90 or 0 to - 90. Is there any way to tell. I'm rarely at 0. LIke i said before I usually have to be + (pick a number 20 - 60 ) and - (pick a...