722 burned up maybe

S

stevesxm

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carribean
one of my friends has a 722 which ( long story) got plugged into a 220v outlet. it doesn't lite up any more. this is not the first time he has done this but always with his 311's. on those it would do one of two things... burn up such that smoke would pour out and he throws it away or it would just pop the fuse and he put a new fuse in and it would be fine. on this 722 tho, there was no smoke, it doesn't smell burned but i don't see any fuse on the board. does anyone know if there is a fuse or a fusible link on a 722 ?
 
navychop

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You might as well open it up and look.
 
vash1090

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If you don't own the 722 I would not condone opening it up, but my best suggestion would be to cover that 220v outlet.

And yes, pretty sure he killed the receiver
 
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stevesxm

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carribean
If you don't own the 722 I would not condone opening it up, but my best suggestion would be to cover that 220v outlet.

And yes, pretty sure he killed the receiver

i wasn't looking for a suggestion... and thank you for your keen insight... but i was looking for an informed technical answer. now.... lets try this again... does anyone KNOW as a matter of FACT if there is a fuse or fusible link ?
 
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m3repair

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i wasn't looking for a suggestion... and thank you for your keen insight... but i was looking for an informed technical answer. now.... lets try this again... does anyone KNOW as a matter of FACT if there is a fuse or fusible link ?

All be critical about this "IF YOU DON'T KNOW WHAT YOU ARE DOING OR HAVE NO KNOWLEDGE OF ELECTRONICS AND THERE INTERNALS AND INTERNAL VOLTAGE, I HIGHLY DO NOT RECOMMEND OR CONDONE OPENING OR MODIFYING ANYTHING INSIDE"

Now that this is out of the way, yes there is an internal fuse inside, its close to the back and is in a white casing it isnt a normal fuse, it will be one you will have to desolder, can't seem to find a picture handy though of it, but even if you do replace it im worried that more may be damaged then just the fuse, but i suppose its worth a shot if you know what you are doing internaly and can solder it off easily and just easily replace it (can't judge skill set online)
 
upsss

upsss

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From this picure Dish722 3 it is hard to tell. The power entry is at the bottom right corner. That big black "blob" is a common mode line filter which was added at the last minute to meet emissions standards, underneath it there may be a fuse.

BTW, the small white ceramic cylinder in the corner is NOT a fuse, it is a "spark gap" (a real high voltage surge suppressor), replacing it will not solve your problem. You have nothing to lose if you know what you doing, it takes 2 minutes to remove the receiver cover. I would not even cross my fingers, the receiver is probably dead.
 
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stevesxm

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carribean
i am well skilled ... i just couldn't find it. thanks and ill have a look is it on the main board or that top board where the power cord comes in , please.
 
upsss

upsss

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All be critical about this "IF YOU DON'T KNOW WHAT YOU ARE DOING OR HAVE NO KNOWLEDGE OF ELECTRONICS AND THERE INTERNALS AND INTERNAL VOLTAGE, I HIGHLY DO NOT RECOMMEND OR CONDONE OPENING OR MODIFYING ANYTHING INSIDE"

Now that this is out of the way, yes there is an internal fuse inside, its close to the back and is in a white casing it isnt a normal fuse, it will be one you will have to desolder, can't seem to find a picture handy though of it, but even if you do replace it im worried that more may be damaged then just the fuse, but i suppose its worth a shot if you know what you are doing internaly and can solder it off easily and just easily replace it (can't judge skill set online)

First statement, 100% correct. Second statement is wrong, this is http://www.littelfuse.com/data/en/Data_Sheets/Littelfuse-SRC_GDT_CG3.pdf what the white ceramic cylinder is. It is not a fuse, replacing it will not solve any of his problems!
 
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stevesxm

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carribean
well... i see that device but it seems the actual fuse is a small black cylinder ( hidden under the corner of the filter in his pic with the ID on it " T3 1.5 A , 250 V and it has no continuity . the board location is " F1 " its the same id on a 625 board that i have here with a glass fuse... so i figure thats it. that surge protector you id may be blown as well but i do the fuse first and then see. thanks.
 
upsss

upsss

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Like I said it was hard to tell from the picture, I would replace this "T3 1.5 A , 250". Let us know if that fixed your problem.

As far as the surge protector don't bother replacing it, they don't fire at less than 1000V and even then, most of the time it is not a permanent damage.
 
M

m3repair

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First statement, 100% correct. Second statement is wrong, this is http://www.littelfuse.com/data/en/Data_Sheets/Littelfuse-SRC_GDT_CG3.pdf what the white ceramic cylinder is. It is not a fuse, replacing it will not solve any of his problems!

EDIT: I stand corrected, it isn't a fuse it is a surge suppressor, and not a fuse, never replaced one or touched one personally so I wasn't entirely sure, To me it seemed like a newer style fuse more compact but again I stand corrected, Thanks!
 
upsss

upsss

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EDIT: I stand corrected, it isn't a fuse it is a surge suppressor, and not a fuse, never replaced one or touched one personally so I wasn't entirely sure, To me it seemed like a newer style fuse more compact but again I stand corrected, Thanks!
No problem. BTW, I just looked at an old Dish receiver and it has a similar Surge Suppressor #CG3-2.5L which is rated @ 2.5KV. Unless you are hit by a lightning it will never fire.
 
KKlare

KKlare

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Are you sure it is not Vmax=2.5kV at arc over and the onset may be 330V or so like a surge protector has.
-Ken
 
upsss

upsss

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This device is a spark gap (not a regular surge suppressor), the 2.5KV is the breakdown voltage, before breakdown it is as if it is out of the circuit. In addition, as you can see in picture there are at least 4 (blue) MOV (Metal Oxide Varistors) which are typical surge suppressors.
 
Last edited:
RT-Cat

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......And get an electrician to install the correct outlet so he can't plug a 120V device into a 220V line.
 

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