Connecting new 722 at remote location.

alittle1

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Oct 14, 2005
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In taking one of my receivers up to the cabin so that I can catch a game or two while I'm up fishing or hunting, (it is very remote and we run off a 8000W generator). I understand that I need a 1000.3 dish to capture 110,119, and 129 signal. But, I tried a 18 X 24 dish (Ebay purchase) with three lnb's fed thru a DiSEqC switch using Port 1 for 119, port 2 for 110, and port 3 for 129, all I get is 119 channels at about 75 to 80 signal quality. There doesn't seem to be a way to get this switch to switch ports and allow the different signals to run the single line thru to the receiver and connect up to the switch (Triplexer) that I had at home with the three cables going to Receiver 1, Rec 2 and TV connections.

What piece of the puzzle am I missing?
 
Sounds like your receiver doesn't know how to control the DiSEqC switch. What LNBs are you using? If Dish Pro, you could fix this with a genuine Dish DP34 or DPP33. If legacy LNBs, then an SW64 should do the same thing.
 
My son is ordering me a 1000.2 Dish and sending it up to me. In his opinion, 'if the receiver worked properly connected to the proper dish at home, it should do equally as well at the cabin', and throw the other one in the bush.

I thought that this would be a good setup (3 LNB's) and they would receive signal if they were properly aimed at the appropriate satellite. What I didn't realize was that a $5 dollar switch wouldn't change the signal from one LNB to the other like the salesman said it would do.

I checked out the price on a SW64 switch and found that the 1000.2 dish was the same price, so I am no better ahead. I still think it will work, and I have some time on my hands.

Find attached picture of LNB's.
 

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Just doing some reading and I found these quotes on the subject of LNB's:

Quote 1:

Installation Tips

*

Peak signal on 119°W (signal at LNBF output PORT 1) after setting the skew angle. Do not try to balance all three satellite signal levels.
*

If the peaking meter does not produce at least 600 mA to power the DPP 1000.2 LNBF, connect PORT 2 of the LNBF to the SATELLITE IN port of a powered receiver to provide LNBF power while peaking.
*

The DPP 1000.2 LNBF’s Adapter Bracket (included) can be replaced by the Three-LNBF Bracket (sold separately) to allow use of three Dual or Single LNBFs. The Three-LNBF Bracket will not support Twin or Quad LNBFs. The W-Bracket used with the DISH 1000 is not interchangeable with the DISH 1000.2 Three-LNBF Bracket. The Three-LNBF Bracket can also be used temporarily with a Dual or Single for peaking on 119°W.

Quote 2:

In the case of DBS, the voltage supplied by the set-top box to the LNB determines the polarization setting. With multi-TV systems, a dual LNB allows both to be selected at once by a switch, which acts as a distribution amplifier. The amplifier then passes the proper signal to each box according to what voltage each has selected. The newest systems may select polarization and which LNBF to use by sending DiSEqC codes instead. The oldest satellite systems actually powered a rotating antenna on the feedhorn, at a time when there was typically only one LNB or LNA on a very large TVRO dish.


In order to set up my dish, I had to disconnect from the DiSEqC switch and connect direct to the 119 LNB where I received a signal of 72. I reconnected back up to the REC port on the DiSEqC switch and waited for signal on 119 which it responded with 74 to 80 signal.

I found that I couldn't get signal to 110 or 129. The reason for that being was the DiSEqC switch wouldn't switch 'because of NO Power to switch to the appropriate satellite' and/or the ability to change polarization to access the channel.

One of my questions is:

Is there a way to send power to this DiSEqC switch using the 722 receiver?

What can I use to supply 600m/A of power to switch this switch from Port 1 to Port 2 or 3? Would a momentary micro switch do it?

Would a circular LNB be a better choice for this dish setup that I have?
 
My son is ordering me a 1000.2 Dish and sending it up to me.
Fortunately the 1000.2 has a built in switch.
One thing worth mentioning; the 722 is very sensitive to fluctuating current, which is common with generators. Last winter while running my 722 off of a 5.5kw generator, every time the generator had a change in load, or a hiccup, the 722 would reboot. I lost a 722 the year before because of a flickering power outage from the electric company caused by the wind.
 
If 600m/A can change the switch, I can see what you mean, the generator runs pretty even and we're running a lite load when the tv's on. We just want to catch some sports in the off hours but I haven't had much response to my questions. I guess no one has dealt with this problem and been successful. Will wait until the 1000.2 arrives next week to see if we can get the signals through to the receiver, can't see why it won't.

Thanks for the comeback about the load problem of the generator, will keep that in mind. You have a good evening now.
 
If 600m/A can change the switch, I can see what you mean, the generator runs pretty even and we're running a lite load when the tv's on. We just want to catch some sports in the off hours but I haven't had much response to my questions. I guess no one has dealt with this problem and been successful. Will wait until the 1000.2 arrives next week to see if we can get the signals through to the receiver, can't see why it won't.

Thanks for the comeback about the load problem of the generator, will keep that in mind. You have a good evening now.

This is one of the reasons inverter generators are so expensive..ie..providing clean power.

But you can also just add a basic automatic voltage regulator, like a Line-R from APC. They only cost about $50 or less, and plug all your electronics (sat receivers, computers, etc..) into that, and leave the "raw" gen power for the rest of the stuff like lights, etc., things that don't mind power sags and surges.

WT
 

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