No one waits that long. Once it's firm enough, they'd set the dish on it. The foam is ready in 10 minutesYes, it sets that quickly but takes about 4 hours to cure enough to put weight on the post. That could be a lot of dead time for the installer.
No one waits that long. Once it's firm enough, they'd set the dish on it. The foam is ready in 10 minutesYes, it sets that quickly but takes about 4 hours to cure enough to put weight on the post. That could be a lot of dead time for the installer.
Well, there's the difference I guess. My power post hole digger has a 6" bit. Between that and going down the extra foot, there isn't much left over.The problem is with a 3' hole, even a 4' hole, using even a quarter of the bag it does much more than a small amount. It's crazy how much it expands - and then the other 3/4's of the bag gets thrown away
Yeah, that's not what we use, sadly. They gave the guy augers that are about 3" wide, but I still use a regular post hole digger and even so, a half bag will blow foam way out of the hole, if you use the Post Hole foam.Well, there's the difference I guess. My power post hole digger has a 6" bit. Between that and going down the extra foot, there isn't much left over.
The gentleman that did my post in the yard install over 15 years ago used a post hole digger, then he flattened the end of the mast going into the ground with an engineers hammer and then poured cement into the hole. He filled it back in with dirt. That thing has never moved, despite me hitting it with the riding mower more than once, high winds including the 2012 derecho, etc.
You understand the foam expands, right?? hence the name, expanding foam?? It expands into every nook and cranny of the hole, locking the pole in placeBut then what's actually holding the post? Just this expanded foam? At least with my method, there is direct contact with tight soil. Granted my method wouldn't work where there's a lot of sand or rock. But I grew up driving fence posts with a post driver- if that's good enough to hold cattle, well....
Fence post don't have a wind catcher on them that creates rotational force.But then what's actually holding the post? Just this expanded foam? At least with my method, there is direct contact with tight soil. Granted my method wouldn't work where there's a lot of sand or rock. But I grew up driving fence posts with a post driver- if that's good enough to hold cattle, well....
By flattening out the base of the round post it becomes anti-rotational in cured cement. Also it's anti-rotational when directly driven into soil. Commercial direct-drive steel fence posts are the most anti-rotational of all, usually being of both 3-D cross-section and having a large flat tab attached near the base. If you could drive this and properly attach a regular dish mount to it, it should hold quite well.Fence post don't have a wind catcher on them that creates rotational force.
Direct drive posts work quite well for wire fencing, since the multiple posts provide lateral stability. But as stand-alone posts, they're very soil dependent on how well they hold. I've taken down a few fences that used this style post in my life, and in most cases, simply rocking the posts side to side loosened them enough to pull them out by hand once the wire was removed. I wouldn't recommend them for dish installations.Commercial direct-drive steel fence posts are the most anti-rotational of all, usually being of both 3-D cross-section and having a large flat tab attached near the base. If you could drive this and properly attach a regular dish mount to it, it should hold quite well.
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First, no, there are no instances of the foam collapsing. This isn't Styrofoam. Second of all you're showing a picture of a fence post not the poes we use for satellite dishes. There's a difference.But does the foam collapse when pressured...? I don't know of any approaching a lateral-force strength of concrete, despite claims. If it could give way whatsoever, once there would become any freeplay it would soon be all over. Have been any cases of failed foam posts?
By flattening out the base of the round post it becomes anti-rotational in cured cement. Also it's anti-rotational when directly driven into soil. Commercial direct-drive steel fence posts are the most anti-rotational of all, usually being of both 3-D cross-section and having a large flat tab attached near the base. If you could drive this and properly attach a regular dish mount to it, it should hold quite well.
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Yup, that's the frost line. Anything above that will heave from summer to winter. Even if you are south, it's easier to make one rule. Also helps with rogue lawn mowers or kids playing half-backAs soon as he found the sweet spot and struck ground with his post hole digger (says Dish requires they go down 36"), I said, ""I'll be right back."