You have to know your LNB that you're using, along with any switch you're using. The receiver has nothing to do with it. When you power up, just hit enter twice to get to the LNBF menu. Most of what you'll be using is EA DPH or WA DPH. Occasionally you'll be using EA or WA DPP and there should be choices if you're testing signal on the other side of a 42 Switch. If you're on an International job, most of the time, the LNB will look like an EA on steroids. Use DPP 500+/1000+ and you'll almost always be adding a DP Single/Dual to that LNB for the 129, so after you select the LNB, the next screen gives you the option of adding the 129. This is essentially a winged in LNBF. If your International LNB looks like a big camera lens, it's a DP 500+/1000+
there's also choice for DPP Twins (Standard Def LNB's) which you should almost never see and DP Singles - used for wing dishes. Forget about legacy. You'll never see it
Once you select the LNB you're using, if there's no switch or 2nd dish winged in, just hit enter 3 times. to get to where you're ready to point. The 2nd button on the right side of the screen rotates through the satellites you're pointed at.
If you're unsure of a sat you're hitting, you can ID it (on the Left side of the screen). If it fails ID, you can then scan to see which bird you're actually hitting. It's always a good idea to hit Menu for each Sat and run a limit scan
A few tips, if you go into options and turn Frequency Deviation on, while you're pointing, you'll see at the bottom a numeric meter. If the signal shows over 2500 or -2500, you have LNB Drift and need to swap LNB's.
Another neat option is Constellation. When you run this on each Sat, it should show up as a fairly perfect circle of dots. If the image looks like scattered dots, like hitting a target with buckshot - bad LNB.
Finally, the dBM meter on the left side - anything over 50 dBM's is an issue. Either bad cabling, bad component (Hub, Node, Splitter), or excessive cabling between the Dish and the Receiver