Really Need Some Help

IchabodBC

Member
Original poster
Apr 12, 2010
11
0
Bay City, TX
Sorry to start a new topic but I see I didn't ask the question correctly in the previous topic and it seems my satellite lingo and info is on the lower end so I'll rephrase my layout, problem & question.

Layout

1 Dish 500 with 110 & 119 printed on the white plastic cover, which I think is referred to as an LNB?

2 Coaxial lines running out of the LNB(?) into a four port coaxial hub

Out of the four port coaxial hub one coaxial cable goes into room one and one goes into room 2, there are two unused coaxial cables that follow each of the other previously mentioned for a total of two coaxial cables at the wallplates in each room. (only one being used again)

1 VIP 211 with one satellite input on the back in room one, pointed to 110 with 82 signal strength

1 VIP 212 with one satellite input on the back in room two, pointed to 129 with 62 signal strength

Problem

In room one we only get standard definition, no HD channels, but we get most if not all of the programming ordered.

In room two we only get some of the HD channels with no other programming just various HD only channels.

Question

What physical setup should I have installed, need, get, order, whatever to have full HD and standard programming in both rooms?

I would really appreciate a response that maybe explained why I am only getting the channels I am and how you would setup the above scenario if it was your house, thanks a million for any responses.
 
Well now this is still pretty confusing. You can't pick up 3 satellite locations with a plain vanilla Dish 500, so how either receiver can get 110 and 129, I don't know. A lunatic installer might have pointed it at 119 and 129, but then you couldn't report any signal strengths for 110. Is this dish about 3' wide?

You also didn't tell us enough to learn whether your switch is a DP34 or a DPP44. What does your receiver say on the Device line of Menu 6-1-3? There is no such thing as a VIP 212, so I'm guessing you might have a two-tuner VIP222 instead. IF so, and it only has one cable coming out of your wall jack, then your switch must be a DPP44, which is a rather expensive switch not generally given to folks who only need 3 (or fewer) satellite locations.

Is it possible that somebody swapped out your DP34 for a DPP44 and failed to run a Check Switch on all receivers?
 
OK I'll run the check switch on both receivers and post the info, It is in a beach house which I don't access regularly, I'll run the tests and get all of the information needed to further address my problem, and yes it was a friend of mine who had some nut job install it, therefore the problems we are having now.
 
Another question, Can one 1000.2 dish be used for two individual receivers? Or would I have to have two individual dish's to get all of the programming in each separate location?
 
One dish will handle 2 receivers. You will need a seperate cable to each receiver.

So what will the topographical layout be of the coaxial cable coming out of the dish?

Just two coaxial cables coming out of the lnb's of the dish, no splitters or anything else going into the receivers?

If that is the case I'm going to order a 1000.2 for $85 and just be done with this.
 
So what will the topographical layout be of the coaxial cable coming out of the dish?

Just two coaxial cables coming out of the lnb's of the dish, no splitters or anything else going into the receivers?

If that is the case I'm going to order a 1000.2 for $85 and just be done with this.
That is correct.
 
A 1000.2 dish can feed up to 3 dual-tuner receivers with a single cable to each. If you really have a DPP44, that can feed up to 4 dual-tuner receivers with a single cable to each. If you want to go crazy with switches, you can add up to 12 dual-tuner receivers by cascading 3 DPP44 switches. Brownover is correct; just very brief!
Just two coaxial cables coming out of the lnb's of the dish, no splitters or anything else going into the receivers?
Here again some additional details might be helpful. If you have a 222, or any other dual-tuner receiver, it should have come with a thing that looks like a splitter, but isn't. It's called a "separator." Usually the separator is hooked up behind the dual-tuner receiver to separate the antenna signal into twol cable stubs going into each satellite tuner. A 1000.2 has an integrated switch, so your existing switch would be removed.

In any case, please run check switch first before spending $85!
 
Last edited:
To further explain, there are two receivers, both only have one satellite input on the back, not two. I swear one was labeled 211 and the other 212, regardless, they are not dual tuner receivers.

One input, one output.
 
OK, this is getting simpler. The switch sounds like a DP34 (since it has 4 cables going down to wall jacks). Is this thing you called a "hub" a fairly large silver box?
 
OK, this is getting simpler. The switch sounds like a DP34 (since it has 4 cables going down to wall jacks). Is this thing you called a "hub" a fairly large silver box?

No, I do networking work with Cat5 so any type of enclosed device I would have called a switch, this is like a network hub, input/output device, it has four coax out with four coax inputs, imagine four exposed couplers all lined in a row, wherever you plug your satellite input is where it goes into the house.

I think I may have solved the problem anyways (with y'alls help of course), I have learned a ton from this website about satellites and the components that make up a satellite signal.
 
it has four coax out with four coax inputs, imagine four exposed couplers all lined in a row, wherever you plug your satellite input is where it goes into the house.
A ground block? There is probably a #10 copper wire going from that ground block to your electrical service entrance. Leave that there. ;) It's meant to conduct 10K amps away from your house.
 
Last edited:

Users Who Are Viewing This Thread (Total: 0, Members: 0, Guests: 0)

Who Read This Thread (Total Members: 1)

Top