I have signal loss on the 3rd hopper tuner. Unable to record or watch it at all. This problem could have been there since original install cause I think it was a few months before I even tried to record 3 programs. I'm on a tight budget and can't afford the 95 bucks or service plan. I'm trying to narrow the problem down without buying one component to test, then another, etc. I changed the hopper, still have problem. I only have one hopper, no Joeys. I assume it has to be the node, lnb or even the cable maybe. I told the installer to just use the cable that was there from years earlier to run from the node to the hopper. I read somewhere that the run from node to hopper needs cable rated to 3ghz because of the 3 stacked signals. I looked at the wire that's there and it says 1.8 ghz. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Signal Loss on tuner 3
- Thread starter mflowe
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you need 3 g cable that is why the 3rd tuner doesn't work. You will have to beg for a free service call
Check all barrel connectors and f connectors between the Hopper and the node. You have two Hoppers? The other one gets all three tuners? Try checking the connectors on the feeds from the dish where possible.
I'm assuming that at one point both were operating correctly? I would start with connectors then look at the cables second.
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I'm assuming that at one point both were operating correctly? I would start with connectors then look at the cables second.
Sent from my iPhone 4S using Forum Runner
Assuming two uninterrupted Saf feeds to the node, and assuming the hopper has been replaced, there are 3 likely scenarios.
1). The cable: you are correct in the 3.0ghz requirement from node to Hopper. The node takes the standard 2150 MHz signal from the dish/LNBF and creates a third band stacked on top using the highest end of the spectrum up to 3ghz. While 1.8ghz cable may work, and could possibly work for a long period of time, it was never tested at such a frequency and may short out over time.
2). The node: as mentioned above the node creates the additional frequency band which allows for a third tuner. If you were to remove the node from the system and barrel a single sat feed to the hopper line, it can still run 2 tuners without issue since there are already 2 stacked/translated bands on a single feed from a DIsh Pro Plus LNBF. So the node remains an option.
3). The LNBF: If for some reason the internal switch has stopped functioning properly then the node may not be receiving the 2 2150mhz signals correctly and subsequently can't do what it needs to do.
As a tech I would probably work backwards from the receiver. That cable will eventually need to be replaced regardless. But if its in some hard to access spot and you want to try to DiY you could run a 3ghz line from the node through the fastest route, window, doorway, etc just to see if it makes a difference. That's assuming you have access to 3ghz cable. If not this sort of trial and error method of troubleshooting may prove to be more expensive than the $95 tech visit.
1). The cable: you are correct in the 3.0ghz requirement from node to Hopper. The node takes the standard 2150 MHz signal from the dish/LNBF and creates a third band stacked on top using the highest end of the spectrum up to 3ghz. While 1.8ghz cable may work, and could possibly work for a long period of time, it was never tested at such a frequency and may short out over time.
2). The node: as mentioned above the node creates the additional frequency band which allows for a third tuner. If you were to remove the node from the system and barrel a single sat feed to the hopper line, it can still run 2 tuners without issue since there are already 2 stacked/translated bands on a single feed from a DIsh Pro Plus LNBF. So the node remains an option.
3). The LNBF: If for some reason the internal switch has stopped functioning properly then the node may not be receiving the 2 2150mhz signals correctly and subsequently can't do what it needs to do.
As a tech I would probably work backwards from the receiver. That cable will eventually need to be replaced regardless. But if its in some hard to access spot and you want to try to DiY you could run a 3ghz line from the node through the fastest route, window, doorway, etc just to see if it makes a difference. That's assuming you have access to 3ghz cable. If not this sort of trial and error method of troubleshooting may prove to be more expensive than the $95 tech visit.
Thanks to all for the replies. To answer a few questions posed, I have one hopper and no Joeys. There are two lines from dish to node. I replaced the feed from node to hopper this evening. No help. All the connections look good to me. Does anyone know the model# of the lnb? I wrote down the numbers that are on the lnb and did a google search that turned up nothing. I am in Maryland. Thanks.
Wow, I think a miracle just happened. I'm a little optimistic that it was the feed from hopper to node after all. As I stated earlier, last night I replaced it and still had no 3rd tuner. I decided to run the switch test again this morning as JSheridan suggested and I immediately noticed something different. I've run the test a million times before after I would unhook the wires, etc. for a month now. Every time the first two tuners would go through the process pretty quickly from 1 to 4, but the 3rd tuner would take forever to check. I would always end up with the green checks on 1 and 2 and red xs on 3rd. This morning they all proceeded the same and checked out. Tried recording 3 programs successfully. No signal loss. Just a question, if anybody knows the answer. Do you have to run a switch test everytime you change something just to get everything communicating with each either. Just curious cause as I stated, I still had no 3rd tuner last night. Thanks to all for the help.
D'oh!
Yep, every time you make changes, especially involving restoring service, if you don't see any results, run a check switch. Sometimes the check switch won't be successful until a power cycle then a check switch. Just trial and error.
Yep, every time you make changes, especially involving restoring service, if you don't see any results, run a check switch. Sometimes the check switch won't be successful until a power cycle then a check switch. Just trial and error.
Any time you see a tuner loss on the hopper , you should always run a check switch and it should correct it. I 've learned this the hard way and DISH techs recommend the same thing. For some reason the hopper seems to be a bit more sensitive to tuner loss.
Everytime I've seen loss of tuner 3 on a single hopper system, it's been the node. You should be able to get the connector onto the node completely tightened until it needs wrench tightened. Cross threading of those connectors can cause that tuner 3 loss. Plus, with that cable, it would need replaced, better put is that it needs replaced. If its working now, eventually it most likely will cause issues, just a matter of when.
I had it happen two or three times in the last year. It doesn't happen often, but when it does ,it really messes up your recordings. So now the first thing I do if there is any signal loss, and it isn't raining cats and dogs outside, I go ahead and run a check switch and it corrects it.
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