<div class="bbWrapper"><blockquote data-attributes="" data-quote="whatchel1" data-source="post: 1965294"
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What's the diplexer right after the dish? unless you are inputting an OTA antenna you don't need one. Is that supposed to be a switch?
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<blockquote data-attributes="" data-quote="CowboyDren" data-source="post: 1965375"
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There are, and must be, two wires from the dish, each terminating at a separator near their respective receiver. There is no way to simplify that wiring further
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</blockquote>That's what I thought which is the reason I put the diplexer in my diagram (to combine the 2 into 1 cable then separate (with a separator) them before going to the desired receivers.<br />
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I was answering Whatchel1's question...</div>
722K + OTA Module
- Thread starter j_met
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<div class="bbWrapper">...and what I'm saying is that it doesn't work quite that way.<br />
<br />
Dish Output 1 -> Separator #1 -> Receiver #1 Sat1/Sat2 input<br />
Dish Output 2 -> Separator #2 -> Receiver #2 Sat1/Sat2 input<br />
<br />
There have to be two full-length RG6 cables, one from <i>each</i> LNB output to <i>each</i> separator. Also, if you plan to diplex OTA signal, you have to diplex into each of the long runs and diplex out before it gets to the separators.<br />
<br />
Dish Output 1 -> Diplexer #1 (combine) -> Long Run -> Diplexer #2 (extract) -> Separator #1<br />
Dish Output 2 -> Diplexer #3 (combine) -> Long Run -> Diplexer #4 (extract) -> Separator #2<br />
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Any way you slice it, there must be at least two RG6 cables from the dish penetrating your exterior wall, soffit, or footing.</div>
<div class="bbWrapper"><b>copper pipe</b><br />
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What cowboy said is good but has to be a copper cold water pipe to get a good ground. Yes one line to each receiver but it can't be combined like on your drawing. That is why I asked if it was a switch.</div>
<div class="bbWrapper"><blockquote data-attributes="" data-quote="whatchel1" data-source="post: 1965432"
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What cowboy said is good but has to be a copper cold water pipe to get a good ground. Yes one line to each receiver but it can't be combined like on your drawing. That is why I asked if it was a switch.
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</blockquote><br />
According to application, and NEC code, it doesn't have to be copper, but it does have to be cold water. If by some wink of fate your electrical meter is in that location, you can bond to it's box, too. The thumb rule is that if you bond to copper, use a copper clamp, and if you bond to steel or iron, use a steel clamp. What it's made of doesn't matter as much as how clean it is. Just remember the purpose of the bond: to discharge static electricity that the dish and antenna build up standing free in those Texas winds. It's not like it has to handle 120VAC at 5 amps. <img src="https://cdn.jsdelivr.net/joypixels/assets/8.0/png/unicode/64/1f642.png" class="smilie smilie--emoji" loading="lazy" width="64" height="64" alt=":)" title="Smile :)" data-smilie="1"data-shortname=":)" /><br />
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That's all really neither here nor there, since that's on the installer's shoulders. You can tell the installer where you want the penetration point and make him figure out the rest from there.</div>
<div class="bbWrapper"><blockquote data-attributes="" data-quote="CowboyDren" data-source="post: 1965441"
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The thumb rule is that if you bond to copper, use a copper clamp, and if you bond to steel or iron, use a steel clamp. What it's made of doesn't matter as much as how clean it is.
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</blockquote>I have to disagree with that statement. Using a galvanized (or steel) clamp on copper piping will cause bi-metal corrosion and will inhibit it's grounding ability as time goes on and the corrosion gets worse.. Same thing applies for using a copper clamp on steel or other similar metals.</div>
<div class="bbWrapper">Ok this is how its wired now....the device on the bottom is a seperator and there wasn't a name on the top device, although that is the main line coming for the dish on the roof...EDIT: I cannot comment on any devices in the crawl space because I haven't been down there yet (when the DISH was installed anyway)<br />
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This is will the new 722k receiver will reside (is that too tight of a space for it to breathe adequately?)<br />
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And here is the DB8 Antenna I put together last night (I don't why I took a picture of it, its not like yall haven't seen one before....I guess I am just proud lol )<br />
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Edit: Sorry I forgot to resize them before I posted the first time....they were ginormous...lol</div>
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<div class="bbWrapper">In your current configuration, all you'd have to do is move the wire from that diplexer from the TV2 output to the OTA input on the 722k, and it'll be great. That wiring would then be perfectly duplicated on the bedroom TV, and you'll be in fine shape.<br />
<br />
That shelf location for the 722k will work, but you can't put the DVD player on top of under it; it'll need it's own shelf or be put at least 6" to the side. As long as there are only pictures on the sides and it has lots of breathing room on top, you should be okay.<br />
<br />
No shame in that antenna, man. <img src="https://cdn.jsdelivr.net/joypixels/assets/8.0/png/unicode/64/1f642.png" class="smilie smilie--emoji" loading="lazy" width="64" height="64" alt=":)" title="Smile :)" data-smilie="1"data-shortname=":)" /></div>
<div class="bbWrapper"><b>Plastic or wrong pipe</b><br />
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According to application, and NEC code, it doesn't have to be copper, but it does have to be cold water. If by some wink of fate your electrical meter is in that location, you can bond to it's box, too. The thumb rule is that if you bond to copper, use a copper clamp, and if you bond to steel or iron, use a steel clamp. What it's made of doesn't matter as much as how clean it is. Just remember the purpose of the bond: to discharge static electricity that the dish and antenna build up standing free in those Texas winds. It's not like it has to handle 120VAC at 5 amps. <img src="https://cdn.jsdelivr.net/joypixels/assets/8.0/png/unicode/64/1f642.png" class="smilie smilie--emoji" loading="lazy" width="64" height="64" alt=":)" title="Smile :)" data-smilie="1"data-shortname=":)" /><br />
<br />
That's all really neither here nor there, since that's on the installer's shoulders. You can tell the installer where you want the penetration point and make him figure out the rest from there.
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</blockquote><br />
I was making a point that it not be PLASTIC. Steel & Iron are OK as well. Also not to make the mistake of clamping to the BLACK gas pipe either. Copper is better than either of the latter metal pipes since they both rust. But if you house doesn't have copper then any metal OK.<br />
I wouldn't worry about the HD DVD is under it unless it is on all the time and putting out additional heat. It would be to have seperation between them though so that you can cool the 722k will run hot in comparison to the 625 you have.</div>
<div class="bbWrapper"><blockquote data-attributes="" data-quote="CowboyDren" data-source="post: 1965679"
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In your current configuration, all you'd have to do is move the wire from that diplexer from the TV2 output to the OTA input on the 722k, and it'll be great. That wiring would then be perfectly duplicated on the bedroom TV, and you'll be in fine shape.
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</blockquote>That is assuming I run the OTA antenna cables with DISH cables via a Diplexer?<br />
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All of my plumbing is PVC, so I will have to buy a grounding rod and a grounding block.</div>
<div class="bbWrapper">Yes, if you use diplexers, you only move one wire.<br />
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The installer should have grounding equipment on his van, but it doesn't hurt to be prepared.</div>
<div class="bbWrapper">Ok well I think I have talked myself out of two receivers....I think I may just got one 722k receiver and then get a HDMI splitter and buy a 25ft or 30ft HDMI cable to run to the second TV in the bedroom.<br />
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Will that work?<br />
<br />
Will it degrade the HD signal?<br />
<br />
Can I program a second remote that will work in the bedroom on the receiver in the living room?<br />
<br />
Will I be able to still view my local channels in HD on my second TV?<br />
<br />
If so, will they show up in my guide on the second TV (I will keep my subscription to local channels) ?<br />
<br />
Anything I should know about that setup? Do's? Don'ts?<br />
<br />
Sorry to be a PITA!</div>
<div class="bbWrapper"><b>HDMI splitter?</b><br />
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<blockquote data-attributes="" data-quote="j_met" data-source="post: 1967895"
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Ok well I think I have talked myself out of two receivers....I think I may just got one 722k receiver and then get a HDMI splitter and buy a 25ft or 30ft HDMI cable to run to the second TV in the bedroom.<br />
<br />
Will that work?<br />
<br />
Will it degrade the HD signal?<br />
<br />
Can I program a second remote that will work in the bedroom on the receiver in the living room?<br />
<br />
Will I be able to still view my local channels in HD on my second TV?<br />
<br />
If so, will they show up in my guide on the second TV (I will keep my subscription to local channels) ?<br />
<br />
Anything I should know about that setup? Do's? Don'ts?<br />
<br />
Sorry to be a PITA!
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</blockquote><br />
Not sure if the HDMI splitter will work for you. You will have a 2nd remote that is UHF/IR for the 2nd TV. If you say run COMPONENT to main TV and HDMI to upstairs then you can have HD in both rooms but they will have to show the same thing in both rooms at the same time.</div>
<div class="bbWrapper">It would be more elegant to run component (R/G/B/Stereo cables) to the close TV and a long HDMI to the bedroom than to use an HDMI splitter. Since they're both running from TV1 outputs on the box, they will be showing the same thing at the same time; there's no way for discrete controls.<br />
<br />
The answer to your remote question is "no." You can't have two remotes both programmed for TV1. You can only have one remote for TV1, and you'd have to carry it back and forth with you.</div>
<div class="bbWrapper"><blockquote data-attributes="" data-quote="CowboyDren" data-source="post: 1967958"
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It would be more elegant to run component (R/G/B/Stereo cables) to the close TV and a long HDMI to the bedroom than to use an HDMI splitter. Since they're both running from TV1 outputs on the box, they will be showing the same thing at the same time; there's no way for discrete controls.<br />
<br />
The answer to your remote question is "no." You can't have two remotes both programmed for TV1. You can only have one remote for TV1, and you'd have to carry it back and forth with you.
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</blockquote><br />
If you're in single mode, the TV2 remote is RF and will work the same as the TV1 remote.</div>
<div class="bbWrapper"><blockquote data-attributes="" data-quote="CowboyDren" data-source="post: 1967958"
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It would be more elegant to run component (R/G/B/Stereo cables) to the close TV and a long HDMI to the bedroom than to use an HDMI splitter. Since they're both running from TV1 outputs on the box, they will be showing the same thing at the same time; there's no way for discrete controls.<br />
<br />
The answer to your remote question is "no." You can't have two remotes both programmed for TV1. You can only have one remote for TV1, and you'd have to carry it back and forth with you.
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</blockquote> I would run it in "Single" mode all the time. Both TV's showing the same channel is not a problem.<br />
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When my brother lived right next door to me, he would be in his living room (he also had DISH) and change his channels and it would change mine as well. I remember calling DISH and they had me program the remote to a different frequency/address and it fixed the problem. I would think I could intentionally replicate that and used two remotes for the same receiver.</div>
<div class="bbWrapper"><b>How does this look?</b><br />
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<div class="bbWrapper">I mounted the antenna today on the roof and ran the 100ft cable of coax I bought...ran into a couple of questions though (and I changed the layout)....<br />
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Orginally I was going to mount the OTA antenna and DISH on sepertae ends of the house....well I eneded up mounting three foot above the DISH sat so I can use the same grounding block (the one DISH installed already)...but I think I am going to have to buy another grounding block cause it looks like you have to have a "In and a Out" and both "Ins" are taken already from the sat dish.<br />
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<br />
So taking that into consideration leads me to my next question.....I think I may have initially bought too long of a coax cable (100 ft) so how hard would it be to cut that cable in desired lengths and put new end (connectors) on myself?<br />
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Here is the rounding rod the DISH sat is grounded to:<br />
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And lastly, here is what the outside looks like (a lot of tall trees)<br />
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<div class="bbWrapper">That DB8 isn't going to perform it's best cocked at that angle. The mast needs to be vertical (which I understand isn't practical with your current mast and roof slope). If you decide to move the antenna some day, DO NOT remove the screws holding that mast foot down; just leave the foot where it is and remove the pole. You could also rig something to extend that pole another 24" so that you can straighten the mast.<br />
<br />
You can get a 4-way grounding block at Lowe's and just replace the one that's there, or you can add a single grounding block (also at Lowe's or Radio Shack). Looks like you have a good copper ground spike installed. You could also ground the antenna to your weatherhead for the power line or bond to the power meter case (but do not mount the antenna to it). Odd that your initial Dish installer didn't take that option.</div>
<div class="bbWrapper"><b>Multipath</b><br />
<br />
The vertical orientation is going to be less of a problem than the signal bounce that may cause multipath problems.</div>
