Thinking of buying a Gbox V3000

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Chas

SatelliteGuys Family
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Jan 5, 2005
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Port St Lucie, FL
I have read the Gbox V3000 manual and I don't quite understand how I'm going to locate satellites across the arc. I know it can work by standalone or thru receiver. Also programming in the sat names and so on. But if you need, let's say 103W AMC-1. How would I know when I get to 103W if I need to do a blind with my STB? Any help please, I will appreciate it!
 
When you search for a particular satellite, you define an active transponder on that satellite for your sat list. THEN, you move your dish either with the receiver, or the Gbox remote slowly across the arc, until you see the quality bar light up, and you have a lock. I typically use Lyngsat as a reference, but we also have The LIst which can help out. For 103W, I'd use 3840H 26681 ( ION network) as a reference. Hope this helps.
Initially , of course, you need to "calibrate " your system by setting it up effectively on your True South satellite, and then checking some sat out further to the East or West to fine tune dish declination.
 
Hey thanks brent!
After you find the first active transponder, is there a easy way after, or keep trying active TP's across the arc? No wander folks still keep there 4DTVs around for that reason.

When you search for a particular satellite, you define an active transponder on that satellite for your sat list. THEN, you move your dish either with the receiver, or the Gbox remote slowly across the arc, until you see the quality bar light up, and you have a lock. I typically use Lyngsat as a reference, but we also have The LIst which can help out. For 103W, I'd use 3840H 26681 ( ION network) as a reference. Hope this helps.
Initially , of course, you need to "calibrate " your system by setting it up effectively on your True South satellite, and then checking some sat out further to the East or West to fine tune dish declination.
 
There's really no easier way. Once you make a full pass of the arc, though. All your positions will be save in the Gbox, and When you switch to a channel, the Gbox will move the dish to the correct position . ( This , of course, is a little optimistic, I'm always having to "tune up" my positions, but it gets close ) .
 
Hello Chas, I agree with brentb36. I also have the Gbox V3000. I have used it boith ways. First I used it through the receiver and then through the (Standalone). Since I did not park on any one satellite, I decided to go with the (Standalone) setup. When I used the receiver setup with the Gbox, the Gbox would want to go to a satellite as soon as I choose it. It just works better for me in the (Standalone). I really like the Gbox V3000, You'll be glad you bought it. If you do what brentb36 said, you will be fine.:)
 
Hi Chas :)

I think your decision to buy a Gbox V3000 is a good one. I have owned both the Gbox and Vbox and prefer the Gbox.
If your sat receiver is NOT capable of Diseq 1.2 commands then that is the standalone mode where you have to use the Gbox remote to move your dish to each of the (99 available) sat positions. So in this configuration you have to use two remotes which is more complicated. The Gbox box remote moves the dish to whatever preset sat position you setup and your receiver remote to change channels for that satellite.

If your sat receiver is diseq 1.2 capable (most are) I would connect your receiver as per the diagram on page 4 of the manual. This means your receiver controls the Gbox and you only have to use your receiver remote for daily use. Then during your intial programming of the Gbox you move the dish to the proper actuator count position for peak signal on whatever sat the receiver channel is set to then use the receiver to program the Gbox for whatever Diseq 1.2 preset number you wish to assign to that satellite. Your sat receiver should have a Diseq 1.2 setup menu for each sat that you use to assign a Diseq 1.2 number (to say AMC-1 for preset number 30 for example). As you program the preset number in the receiver it sends a command to the Gbox via the rg6 cable to assign whatever actuator count you are on to the preset number you have chosen. Then I use the Gbox remote to assign one of the Gbox predetermined names (found in page 7 of the manual) to that Diseq 1.2 positions preset number.
Once you have gone thru the intial setup of of all the satellites in your viewing arc and assigned the names and Diseq 1.2 numbers to the actuator count values you only need to use your receiver remote. So when you change channels in your receiver it sends Diseq commands via the rg6 cable to tell the Gbox to got to preset number X. Your Gbox them remembers that preset number X is located at acuator count xxxx and goes there.

Hope this helps,

Kevin
 
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When I used the receiver setup with the Gbox, the Gbox would want to go to a satellite as soon as I choose it.

Hey thanks for your reply Keystone!
Using a 4DTV receiver, that's what I want as long as there no problem with it doing that. I don't mind manually programming sats in. Seem's like i'm doing that about all the time. What's your reason for standalone. seem like that's a 2 step move. Move the dish first and then find that Sat with the STB, correct?
 
Hi Chas :)

I think your decision to buy a Gbox V3000 is a good one. I have owned both the Gbox and Vbox and prefer the Gbox.
If your sat receiver is NOT capable of Diseq 1.2 commands then that is the standalone mode where you have to use the Gbox remote to move your dish to each of the (99 available) sat positions. So in this configuration you have to use two remotes which is more complicated. The Gbox box remote moves the dish to whatever preset sat position you setup and your receiver remote to change channels for that satellite.

If your sat receiver is diseq 1.2 capable (most are) I would connect your receiver as per the diagram on page 4 of the manual. This means your receiver controls the Gbox and you only have to use your receiver remote for daily use. Then during your intial programming of the Gbox you move the dish to the proper actuator count position for peak signal on whatever sat the receiver channel is set to then use the receiver to program the Gbox for whatever Diseq 1.2 preset number you wish to assign to that satellite. Your sat receiver should have a Diseq 1.2 setup menu for each sat that you use to assign a Diseq 1.2 number (to say AMC-1 for preset number 30 for example). As you program the preset number in the receiver it sends a command to the Gbox via the rg6 cable to assign whatever actuator count you are on to the preset number you have chosen. Then I use the Gbox remote to assign one of the Gbox predetermined names (found in page 7 of the manual) to that Diseq 1.2 positions preset number.
Once you have gone thru the intial setup of of all the satellites in your viewing arc and assigned the names and Diseq 1.2 numbers to the actuator count values you only need to use your receiver remote. So when you change channels in your receiver it sends Diseq commands via the rg6 cable to tell the Gbox to got to preset number X. Your Gbox them remembers that preset number X is located at acuator count xxxx and goes there.

Hope this helps,

Kevin

Hey Kevin, thanks!:)
That helps greatly!..good info!
 
By that, do you mean it drift on you you sometime and there's a need to re tune?

My dish is the famous $69 180 CM from Galaxy Marketing. It is cheaply made ( but still a huge bargain ) , and there are a several places where the physical linkage could be better. It drifts a little to the east, and a little to the west, kinda depends upon which way our current Lake Michigan gale wants to shift it. Never very far, but far enough that I've got to plug it back into position. :)
 
My dish is the famous $69 180 CM from Galaxy Marketing. It is cheaply made ( but still a huge bargain ) , and there are a several places where the physical linkage could be better. It drifts a little to the east, and a little to the west, kinda depends upon which way our current Lake Michigan gale wants to shift it. Never very far, but far enough that I've got to plug it back into position. :)

The big reason why I bought a 10' mesh dish. Here in Florida, we could get hurricanes winds. I originally had a 12' dish bought in 1985. Then we moved 40mi away closer to my job and we moved the 12 footer to our new home. Then the hurricane in a long time in 2004 came. It got crushed not because of the winds, but a ficus tree the winds blew it on to. I had to get another one went down to ten. Good thru all the rest of the hurricanes.
 
i have the gbox with an 8' here in nebraska. had to correct counts in the gbox frequently until i tightened all the connections on the mount and now am able to go to satellites with no problem. i have 40 satellites configured into the gbox. have a sheet with the counts for each satellite with my straight south satellite as '0000' and 55w as -600 and 137w as 635. the gbox works well with my solomend receiver but am anxiously awaiting the new geopro microhd next month. then i will be able to move the 8' to the living room for the wife with the new receiver and i will have the 6' with a manual actuator and the solomend receiver to play with in the basement. easier for me to have the manual adjustment with the actuator instead of the wife getting frustrated... she likes a pushbutton world. charlie
 
I didn't read all of the posts...I'm tired.

But, when I set up my Gbox I counted. If the sats are two degrees apart then set up two sats with channels. See what the Vbox count is from one sat to the next, lets say 24 from peak on sat 1 to peak on sat 2.

Ok, move 24 counts...you should be on the next sat 2 degrees over. A scan will tell you if you get the channels you are looking for on that sat. It worked very good for me but I did back up to far and get channels off of two sats on one sat and had to redo those.

Counting works really good...to move 2 sats....count 48 and you should be right in the ball park. If you want to move 20 (10 sat positions) degrees then 10x24=240....count 240 on the Gbox and you should be very close.
 
I didn't read all of the posts...I'm tired.

But, when I set up my Gbox I counted. If the sats are two degrees apart then set up two sats with channels. See what the Vbox count is from one sat to the next, lets say 24 from peak on sat 1 to peak on sat 2.

Ok, move 24 counts...you should be on the next sat 2 degrees over. A scan will tell you if you get the channels you are looking for on that sat. It worked very good for me but I did back up to far and get channels off of two sats on one sat and had to redo those.

Counting works really good...to move 2 sats....count 48 and you should be right in the ball park. If you want to move 20 (10 sat positions) degrees then 10x24=240....count 240 on the Gbox and you should be very close.

I use this technique when I'm in the center of the arc. It's not accurate out at the extremes because the angular spacing changes. 137W is very close to 139 W, for example, rather than 20 clicks. There is a nice regularity to the system, though, and once you find all your birds and write down the "click" positions on a chart against the satellite position, you'll have a good reference for the future.
 
yankee495 said:
I didn't read all of the posts...I'm tired.

But, when I set up my Gbox I counted. If the sats are two degrees apart then set up two sats with channels. See what the Vbox count is from one sat to the next, lets say 24 from peak on sat 1 to peak on sat 2.

Ok, move 24 counts...you should be on the next sat 2 degrees over. A scan will tell you if you get the channels you are looking for on that sat. It worked very good for me but I did back up to far and get channels off of two sats on one sat and had to redo those.

Counting works really good...to move 2 sats....count 48 and you should be right in the ball park. If you want to move 20 (10 sat positions) degrees then 10x24=240....count 240 on the Gbox and you should be very close.

When you find each Sat, how do you get the polarity right? With the Gbox, how can you tell whether you're on vertical or horizontal?
 
The Gbox only controls the east / west dish placement. Your receiver normally controls the polarity.

Do you have a LNBF or LNB(s) mounted to a feedhorn? What brand and model receiver?
 
SatelliteAV said:
The Gbox only controls the east / west dish placement. Your receiver normally controls the polarity.

Do you have a LNBF or LNB(s) mounted to a feedhorn? What brand and model receiver?

I have for Receiver Azbox Premium Plus, LNB Corotor II w/C-band Norsat 8115 & KU 4206 & servo motor
 
You will need a controller for the polarity servo. Unfortunately, your receiver does not have connections to control the servo. There are some schematics on this website for a manual polarity controller if you wish to continue to use your feedhorn assembly or you could use an older analog or 4DTV receiver.

Another option is to convert the feedhorn assembly to a voltage controlled LNBF like the GEOSATpro C2, which your receiver could control the polarity automatically.
 
SatelliteAV said:
You will need a controller for the polarity servo. Unfortunately, your receiver does not have connections to control the servo. There are some schematics on this website for a manual polarity controller if you wish to continue to use your feedhorn assembly or you could use an older analog or 4DTV receiver.

Another option is to convert the feedhorn assembly to a voltage controlled LNBF like the GEOSATpro C2, which your receiver could control the polarity automatically.

Can I use a analog Receiver just for the polarity and not for moving the dish?
 
If you need to control the servo with an old analog receiver it probably would be easier if it also controlled the actuator motor. Wouldn't be very user friendly to use 3 components to watch satellite TV..... the Gbox for actuator, analog receiver for polarity servo and the AZbox for channel tuning.
 
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