I would like to switch out my rather out-dated and elaborate A/V receiver setup and multiple sreakers with a simple direct hookup of the Dish 921 receiver to the Sony Bravia TV and a decent soundbar for audio. What are the implications of doing this as to the capability of the Dish remote to sync (control on/off, volume, etc,) with the 921, Sony TV, and soundbar. I would like to avoid having 2 or 3 remotes laying around. Are there some soundbars more compatable than others?
Dish Remote and Soundbars
- Thread starter dcbrink
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The DISH programmable/learning remote should work or perhaps better a Logitech Harmony remote would turn on and off everything with one button and use the volume of the sound bar, change channels on the receiver etc...
I have an LG sound bar on my basement TV and I programmed my Hopper remote to run it. I can control everything just from my Dish remote, from switching inputs on the TV to running the sound bar.
If your TV has an HDMI ARC port, most modern soundbars support controlling their volume with the TV remote. That is how I use my Samsung TV and soundbar. My Dish remote controls TV sound, which adjusts the soundbar volume.
No need to have the TV controlling the sound bar volume unless you like having both of them on. I always have the TV volume off and my Dish remote is defaulted to run the sound bar. I don't have to switch any inputs on my remote to do it.
When the TV and soundbar negotiate the Audio Return Channel (ARC) over HDMI, the TV volume goes to zero, so only the soundbar is actually emitting any sound.
Here is a primer on ARC: http://www.cnet.com/news/what-is-audio-return-channel-arc/
Works well for me, but YMMV.
Related to this, does anyone have or know of any audio devices like a soundbar or dedicated speakers/subwoofer system that will automatically turn on when it detects an audio signal? Right now I have a Bose Cinemate GS II system and love the audio and also the smaller size of speakers. The Bose system does have an auto shutoff after 5 minutes or so of not detecting any audio signal. That's nice. The problem is it goes into a shutdown and not a standby mode (like a PC) where if there is an audio signal present then it wakes itself up automatically. Like when you move a mouse or press a key on a keyboard for a PC. Hate having to always go to the aux button to turn it back on then back to the Hopper button on the remote. Too many button presses.
Yes, I can use a programmable remote, but tried that twice and tired of having a missed signal sent and not all devices turn on/off. Plus, the family NEVER gets that they have to always keep pointing the remote at the devices to make them work because it is IR. I have one in the home theater that I pretty much use only myself so I know all the quirks and how to handle them.
Thanks.
Yes, I can use a programmable remote, but tried that twice and tired of having a missed signal sent and not all devices turn on/off. Plus, the family NEVER gets that they have to always keep pointing the remote at the devices to make them work because it is IR. I have one in the home theater that I pretty much use only myself so I know all the quirks and how to handle them.
Thanks.
To work a Sound Bar with your Dish Remote:
Go to: Menu > Settings > Remote Manager > Aux Code > Audio Accessory > choose lookup code for your brand sound bar.
Should find correct one on first try. Test out with - + volume keys. If it works for you, then
Go back to remote manager & choose volume to set control volume for aux.
Your Dish remote should now work with your Samsung (or your brand) sound bar.
I don't personally know of one, that does not mean there isn't. Both of mine do what you already know, turn off after a period of time of no signal, my attached subwoofer included.
I solved that problem via a smart power strip that cuts/provides power to certain outlets depending if the TV is on or off. When my TV is turned on, the sound bar and sub woofer turn on, and turn off after the TV is turned off.
I have one of those but does not work in this case. Meaning, the Bose system I have is not a plug in-power on device. If you apply power like this through the power strip it acts like you're plugging the Bose system in, so to speak. The system needs to have a discrete power on command sent to it. This was one of the things I first thought of. Each time the audio system looks like it will stay on, but shortly turns to it's initial "off" state waiting for the on command. Oh well.
