Upgrade to a H3 without 2 year commitment?

Is it possible to upgrade to an H3 (from an HWS) without that 2 year commitment?
I’ve seen it done, but it’s very difficult, depends on the sales person that you talk to and they probably consider how long you’ve been with Dish, how well you can sell them on the idea of doing it for free, and things like that. When I was in sales, just like from the movie Boiler Room, we were taught that there is a sale made on every call. Selling them on the product or them selling us and why they would not buy the product.

It’s rare!

paying for the service call has nothing to do with it
 
I've been with Dish 24 years and I had to commit to a 2-yr contract to upgrade to the H3. They were going to upgrade me to a H2 for free and no contract, but I opted to pay the extra $100 fee plus 2-yr commitment and move up to a H3.
 
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I know a tech, not me, who whenever he has a super Joey job will call Dish front line support and tell them that there are no super Joeys in our office and they either need to update the customer to a hopper three or the work order is going to cancel, and they’re going to lose a customer and they get upgraded to a hopper three for free every time.
 
I know a tech, not me, who whenever he has a super Joey job will call Dish front line support and tell them that there are no super Joeys in our office and they either need to update the customer to a hopper three or the work order is going to cancel, and they’re going to lose a customer and they get upgraded to a hopper three for free every time.
Why though? The super Joey is amazing! (sarcasm)
 
Probably only if you buy it outright.
Buying an H3 isn't out of the question. Anyway, the primary reason for the upgrade from the HWS is one of performance. The addition of the Snap module to the HWS saw a noticeable performance improvement but since then after numerous updates, it seems performance has reverted back to what it was before the Snap.
 
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Buying an H3 isn't out of the question. Anyway, the primary reason for the upgrade from the HWS is one of performance. The addition of the Snap module to the HWS saw a noticeable performance improvement but since then after numerous updates, it seems performance has reverted back to what it was before the Snap.
The H3 conversion is not a plug and play transfer. You can't just take your H2 out and put the H3 in its place. Hopper 3 requires a hybrid configuration. That means you need a hybrid LNB or a 42 switch and a trade of a node for a hub, and possibly an extra coax from the LNB to the hub.
 
The H3 conversion is not a plug and play transfer. You can't just take your H2 out and put the H3 in its place. Hopper 3 requires a hybrid configuration. That means you need a hybrid LNB or a 42 switch and a trade of a node for a hub, and possibly an extra coax from the LNB to the hub.
I know it's not a plug and play transfer. But I have 2 coax lines from the lnb already so all I may need to do is change the node. I'm currently on the EA.
BTW, I watched the installer set up an H3 for my father in law. There was only a single coax coming in from the LNB and the setup seemed really easy. He put up the dish and used an old coax that was already there (no way was it even close to 3ghz) and everything worked fine.
 
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I know it's not a plug and play transfer. But I have 2 coax lines from the lnb already so all I may need to do is change the node. I'm currently on the EA.
BTW, I watched the installer set up an H3 for my father in law. There was only a single coax coming in from the LNB and the setup seemed really easy. He put up the dish and used an old coax that was already there (no way was it even close to 3ghz) and everything worked fine.
If you are using DPP equipment alongside a Solo Node, then you need to have your LNBF (also known as the “eyes” on the dish) changed to a hybrid model. You can check this on the Dish information page on diagnostics, Home x3 then option 3 on the left. If you already have a Hybrid LNBF listed then the switch is plug and play.
 
Also, DPP requires the two lines from your LNBF to lead to a Node and then connect you the Hopper, but Hybrid equipment runs on a single coax run only, with a Hub being necessary only if you intend to connect Joeys as well
 
Also, DPP requires the two lines from your LNBF to lead to a Node and then connect you the Hopper, but Hybrid equipment runs on a single coax run only, with a Hub being necessary only if you intend to connect Joeys as well
Unfortunately I have a DPP with two lines from the LNBF. My setup is one HWS with one wired J3 and a wireless Joey, Eastern Arc. I think this isn't a do it yourself job for me because I have no means of aiming the dish (if it became necessary) once I change to the Hybrid LNBF. I once knew a guy that did this on the side but he's long since retired and moved away. Solid Signal sells the hybrid LNBF for around $53 so I thought about attempting to do it myself.

But than I reasoned that since I really have no problem with spending money to buy an H3 and the Hybrid LNBF, why don't I just have an installer do it and agree to the 2 year commitment and not care about any possible penalty they may charge if I terminate service before 2 years? This sounds like the most reasonable way to proceed.
 
Unfortunately I have a DPP with two lines from the LNBF. My setup is one HWS with one wired J3 and a wireless Joey, Eastern Arc. I think this isn't a do it yourself job for me because I have no means of aiming the dish (if it became necessary) once I change to the Hybrid LNBF. I once knew a guy that did this on the side but he's long since retired and moved away. Solid Signal sells the hybrid LNBF for around $53 so I thought about attempting to do it myself.

But than I reasoned that since I really have no problem with spending money to buy an H3 and the Hybrid LNBF, why don't I just have an installer do it and agree to the 2 year commitment and not care about any possible penalty they may charge if I terminate service before 2 years? This sounds like the most reasonable way to proceed.
Good idea.
 
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But I'm going to really really miss that red recording light. Why they didn't include it on the H3 totally escapes me, and I'll bet no one has a reasonable explanation for this omission. It couldn't have been a cost issue.
When you have 16 tuners there is very little reason to need that red recording light.