DPP44 Switch = no diplexors?

[bhelms]

http://www.satelliteguys.us/photopost/showphoto.php/photo/227/cat/500/ppuser/33084
.... Please tell me where I should place the power inserter.

The DPP44 power inserter MUST go in line to Port 1 - no option on that. But in your diagram it looks like it could go between the diplexor closest to the switch and port 1 with no problem. You'll just need 120vac close to the switch to power the insertor's adapter, but as far as I know there's no reason why you can have the insertor right at port 1.

 

[rgerst]

The DPP44 power inserter MUST go in line to Port 1 - no option on that. But in your diagram it looks like it could go between the diplexor closest to the switch and port 1 with no problem. You'll just need 120vac close to the switch to power the insertor's adapter, but as far as I know there's no reason why you can have the insertor right at port 1.

Thanks bhelms. Unfortunately my current switch (DP34) is attached to the outside of the house and there is no power outlet anywhere near it.

 

[charlesrshell]

Are 2, 3, and 4 out ports on the DP44 switch in use? If not, use one of those positions for your 622 and diplex it. Power Inserter can use port 1.

 

[rgerst]

Are 2, 3, and 4 out ports on the DP44 switch in use? If not, use one of those positions for your 622 and diplex it. Power Inserter can use port 1.

I currently have a DP34 that feeds a 510 and a 301. I am replacing them both with a 622. I currently have a cable running from the 501 and the 301 back to the DP34. I hope to back feed the tv2 signal to the bedroom where the 301 currently lives. That should only use a single port. However, it would require the use of both cables that I currently have in place. I guess I will need to run another line just to place the power inserter. I did not want to run another line because it will require fishing a line down a wall.

 

[RandallA]

"You'll just need 120vac close to the switch to power the insertor's adapter, but as far as I know there's no reason why you can have the insertor right at port 1."

The problem with having the diplexer in port 1 with the power inserter is the high voltage passing through the diplexer. Like Simon said a high current passing diplexer will work but to be honest I wouldn't take the chance unless absolutely necessary. Some cheap diplexers won't handle the current and could cause damage to the switch or not provide enough juice to power the switch.

It's clearly stated in that document that I linked, not to use a diplexer between the switch and the power inserter. I'm pretty sure that Dish Network has tested it and thus the warning.

Bk63ross a member of this forum, had a problem with his DPP44 where all the receivers lost the signal and resetting and unplugging everything from the switch didn't bring it back. He replaced the switch with a new one and the same thing, no signal. We found out that diplexers were on port 1 where the inserter was so we moved the diplexers to port 3 and left the power inserter on port 1, all the receivers got the signal back after that.

I'm not an engineer nor an installer but I saw the switch failed with diplexers used in port 1 between the power inserter and the switch. Most likely it all depends on the diplexers used but why take a chance if you can avoid it.

 

[rgerst]

http://www.satelliteguys.us/photopost/showphoto.php/photo/228/cat/500

I think the attached photo shows how I need to set up my system. Is there not another way to add the power inserter without running a line dedicated for it?

 

[RandallA]

That should work. I don't know how you can avoid running another dedicated cable run to port 1, sorry. Maybe someone else has other ideas.

 

[RandallA]

bhelms,

I see your point. So it would go like this:

Switch DPP44 ==> Power Inserter (to outlet) ==> Diplexer 1 (feed from power inserter and cable run to splitter) ==> Diplexer 2 (feed from RF output and satellite feed) ==> Separator ==> 622 receiver.

That should work too because there is no diplexer in between the switch and the power inserter and you only have that single run that "rgerts" wants.

Edit:

I found an example where diplexers are used in port 1. Notice note 2 where it says that diplexers must be Dish Pro compliant and capable of handling up to 2A of current. Now my question is how do we know which diplexers can handle up to 2A?

http://www.satelliteone.com/dish/support/Distribution_Example_12.pdf

I have the specs for the Holland Diplexers and MCR diplexers and neither one states that it can handle 2A of current.

 

[RandallA]

Found the diplexers that should work with the DPP44. The info comes from the Tech Portal and it's a Holland diplexer model DPD2 (blue):

http://rweb.echostar.com/departmental_content/TechPortal/images/pdf/tech/DISHPro_Accessories1.pdf

Here's a picture of it:

http://www.swidendist.com/detail.aspx?ID=1118

 

[webbydude]

I think the "blue" Hollands are the only diplexers I've found to be rated for the 2A load. Other diplexes should *knock on wood* work fine...but I wouldn't recommend them for port 1 on the DPP 44.

 

[RandallA]

"Other diplexes should *knock on wood* work fine...but I wouldn't recommend them for port 1 on the DPP 44."

Personally, I woulnd't even try it. The DPP44 is a very expensive switch and wouldn't want to fry it.

 

[John Kotches]

I already have 6 of the Holland DPD2s on order, I've had them on order since I got the yes answer

As an FYI Swiden Distributing sells them for about $3.50 each.

Cheers,

 

[rgerst]

Thanks for the info RandallA. So these DPD2 diplexers can be placed in between the power inserter and the switch? When my installer arrives on Saturday, we will have a long conversation about the power inserter and the diplexers that he uses. Hopefully he will be using the DPD2 diplexers.

 

[webbydude]

The biggest reason why the DPD2 diplexers are prefered is the 2A capacity. Which is perfect for the "between the power inserter and switch" situation you have going on.

 

[Bountykiller]

On my DPP 44 i just put them into each satellite input via a high end commercial grade cable splitter using 4 di-plexors for each of the 4 satellite inputs, thay way it works off all feeds daisy chained etc... ;0 Worked fine for me !

-Bounty

 

[stevo/65]

Do you even need a power inserter for the DPP 44 , if you are only using the DP twin Lnb for the 110/119 and dual Dp Lnb for the 129 and one for the 148 all recievers are DP as well.
Because i never have and the system works great.
I was told only if you are using a Legacy reciever in the mix "that is where you link the power inserter" or if you are using
the DPP twin Lnb for the 110/119

 

[RandallA]

I know there are at least a couple of threads where we've discussed that same issue a while ago.

In my opinion you don't need the power inserter if you have at least a couple of DP receivers hooked up to the DPP44 switch. As you have already discovered, it's been working great without the PI. The main issue is that the DPP44 requires more power and it will force the receivers to provide more power that they are supposed to and might burn them.

 

[StevenD]

So, since we are talking about DPP44s and diplexers...which diplexers do folks recommend?

Are the Holland DPD2s the best choice?

 

[RandallA]

What webbydude said:

"The biggest reason why the DPD2 diplexers are prefered is the 2A capacity. Which is perfect for the "between the power inserter and switch" situation you have going on."

You can use any diplexor rated to at least 2150 Mhz on ports 2, 3 or 4. But for port 1, you can only use the DPD2 because is the only diplexer (that I know of) that can handle the higher current.

 

[StevenD]

One more question...

Can I put a diplexer on the line from my LNB to the DPP44?

Until I can get an electrician out to my new house, I only have two RG6s running from the outside to my wiring closet. Im willing to live with 110 and 119 (no 61.5) for a while, but I really need my OTA as well. So, Im wondering if I can diplex either the line from the 110 or 119 to the DPP44.