4dtv battery
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I prefer to use full AA size lithiums to replace mine. Digi-Key - 439-1010-ND (Manufacturer - TL-2100/S)
You can then wire two AA battery holders ( in parallel) into the circuit ( just hot melt glue them somewhere conventient to access) and away from the
board before you start to remove the original battery. When ready, pop in a AA in one holder ( mind polarity), and cut the original battery out of the circuit quickly.
If you then ever need to replace the AA you just pop another AA in the second holder and remove the first.
Of course this is probably overkill, as the battery will probably outlive the receiver now.
If you are in dire need of a battery quickly Radio Shack usually has the AA tadirans in stock for about $20.
You can then wire two AA battery holders ( in parallel) into the circuit ( just hot melt glue them somewhere conventient to access) and away from the
board before you start to remove the original battery. When ready, pop in a AA in one holder ( mind polarity), and cut the original battery out of the circuit quickly.
If you then ever need to replace the AA you just pop another AA in the second holder and remove the first.
Of course this is probably overkill, as the battery will probably outlive the receiver now.
If you are in dire need of a battery quickly Radio Shack usually has the AA tadirans in stock for about $20.
I just picked up my battery at Radio Shack a couple days ago but haven't put it in yet. The battery holder idea sounds like an easier & safer way of doing this, especially for a rookie like myself. For myself though, I will probably just solder one holder in place because like you said, the new battery will probably outlast the receiver anyway. Back to Radio Shack.
One thing to watch on the battery holders from RS. Before removing the old battery, check that you measure the 3.6v on the leads from the new AA
holder going out. I found that the buttons on the tadiran batteries are a little smaller than most AAs and the holders from RS may have a lip on the inside
of the holder that doesn't QUITE allow the battery to hit the positive side of the holder firmly. I ended up having to shave a bit of plastic from the inside
of the holder to allow a good connection. Its best to do this before even mounting or soldering in the holder.
holder going out. I found that the buttons on the tadiran batteries are a little smaller than most AAs and the holders from RS may have a lip on the inside
of the holder that doesn't QUITE allow the battery to hit the positive side of the holder firmly. I ended up having to shave a bit of plastic from the inside
of the holder to allow a good connection. Its best to do this before even mounting or soldering in the holder.
Battery change experimentation, This week!
I am currently working my way up to a battery change in a 920+922 as well, Noticed that the battery inside the old VCRS descrambler module attached pretty much same as one on motherboard of 920/922. So have dismantled it and have been practicing my soldering desoldering skills on this obsolete modules board. You can practice removing battery from board over and over, as well as various alternate attachment methods. (some VCRS batterys have fuse on + end of them so watch for those ones, don't want to go pop on you) One VCRS board I have is exact copy of battery attachment in 920. Good confidence builder before you tackle real thing. Have read a soldered attachment is safer than a battery holder as slip in battery attachment creates a resistance point and you can loose power. Have you ever had to spin battery in a remote that wasn't working and then it would work again, I think that is a resistance buildup, disconnects power and spinning removes that resistance. Remove VCRS battery and snap the metal end plates off old battery, solder them to wires etc for alternate connection types Have dismantled the power connection wire for a SATA hard drive, there are red,black,yellow wires ends are soldered and crimped together have copper end with 3 prongs pointing down, took 2 red ones bent 2 end prongs up to have 1 single down prong, soldered the two wire ends together to have a slightly thicker stronger wire end. This copper end heats up good with soldering iron and will slide just the right depth into motherboard holes. Looks promising. You start to get ideas of different things you can do when you have some extra parts, and something to play with.
I am currently working my way up to a battery change in a 920+922 as well, Noticed that the battery inside the old VCRS descrambler module attached pretty much same as one on motherboard of 920/922. So have dismantled it and have been practicing my soldering desoldering skills on this obsolete modules board. You can practice removing battery from board over and over, as well as various alternate attachment methods. (some VCRS batterys have fuse on + end of them so watch for those ones, don't want to go pop on you) One VCRS board I have is exact copy of battery attachment in 920. Good confidence builder before you tackle real thing. Have read a soldered attachment is safer than a battery holder as slip in battery attachment creates a resistance point and you can loose power. Have you ever had to spin battery in a remote that wasn't working and then it would work again, I think that is a resistance buildup, disconnects power and spinning removes that resistance. Remove VCRS battery and snap the metal end plates off old battery, solder them to wires etc for alternate connection types Have dismantled the power connection wire for a SATA hard drive, there are red,black,yellow wires ends are soldered and crimped together have copper end with 3 prongs pointing down, took 2 red ones bent 2 end prongs up to have 1 single down prong, soldered the two wire ends together to have a slightly thicker stronger wire end. This copper end heats up good with soldering iron and will slide just the right depth into motherboard holes. Looks promising. You start to get ideas of different things you can do when you have some extra parts, and something to play with.
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Yes the voltage is fine...
BUT...
This has to do with the age of the battery and not so much the voltage. After so long lithium cell batteries just die! :river
When they get near the 10 year mark, their reliability is not so good. I changed mine when it hit 8 years old.
The battery does not recharge when the unit is plugged in like some believe!
BUT...
This has to do with the age of the battery and not so much the voltage. After so long lithium cell batteries just die! :river
When they get near the 10 year mark, their reliability is not so good. I changed mine when it hit 8 years old.
The battery does not recharge when the unit is plugged in like some believe!
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DSR920 Done
Did this with unit plugged in, wasn't to scary. I made a ALBUM in my User Name Profile with extra photos
[ Right Click and Save File ]
http://www.satelliteguys.us/attachment.php?attachmentid=61603&d=1297053826
Did this with unit plugged in, wasn't to scary. I made a ALBUM in my User Name Profile with extra photos
[ Right Click and Save File ]
http://www.satelliteguys.us/attachment.php?attachmentid=61603&d=1297053826
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DSR922 Done
Completed battery change on 922 now as well, did this one as well with receiver plugged in all the time. A bit more stressful as battery not in as good a place as 920's to work on, but it can be done. Holes in motherboard are smaller than 920's as well so removing tabs from old battery and soldering wires to them may be a good option so you know they will fit in holes.
http://www.satelliteguys.us/attachment.php?attachmentid=61805&d=1297576976
Completed battery change on 922 now as well, did this one as well with receiver plugged in all the time. A bit more stressful as battery not in as good a place as 920's to work on, but it can be done. Holes in motherboard are smaller than 920's as well so removing tabs from old battery and soldering wires to them may be a good option so you know they will fit in holes.
http://www.satelliteguys.us/attachment.php?attachmentid=61805&d=1297576976
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