I wll probably be getting a 1000+ dish that needs to be near the bottom of the roof for line of sight. I have brick walls. Would a mount into the brick wall under the soffit be a good location (assuming good LOS there)? Are installers reluctant to go into brick walls?
Best place to mount
- Thread starter danderson101
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I have a wall mount under the eaves and it has worked marvelously well for probably around 10 years. My eaves are almost 36". LOS is key, as you know, but also keep in mind that the LOS may not be exactly where you think because of the way this is getting reflected off the dish to the LNB. I may not have phrased that quite correctly, but .... I had to make sure I kept my dish down from the eaves a sufficient distance to allow true LOS. If I tucked it up too high under the eaves, even though it LOOKED like the dish could see the bird, I would actually be partially obscuring clear LOS. Having it under the eaves may be protecting it from some of the weather and sun. *shrug*
Mounting on brick... there are LOTS of wall mounted dishes around here on brick homes. I know the installers around here don't have issues with brick, but to be fair to the installer, you should be able to assess the condition of your brick facade. If the mortar joints are solid and the type of brick used is presenting the installer with a flat surface to mount to, then I can't see why it would be an issue.
If it has to go on the roof, having it on the eaves would be preferable to having it anywhere else on the roof where it would be over living space. Why? Because in the (unlikely if properly done) event of a leak, an eave mount won't typically leak into walls and ceilings of habitable space.
My 110/119 is on the wall and my 61.5 is on the eave above it.
Mounting on brick... there are LOTS of wall mounted dishes around here on brick homes. I know the installers around here don't have issues with brick, but to be fair to the installer, you should be able to assess the condition of your brick facade. If the mortar joints are solid and the type of brick used is presenting the installer with a flat surface to mount to, then I can't see why it would be an issue.
If it has to go on the roof, having it on the eaves would be preferable to having it anywhere else on the roof where it would be over living space. Why? Because in the (unlikely if properly done) event of a leak, an eave mount won't typically leak into walls and ceilings of habitable space.
My 110/119 is on the wall and my 61.5 is on the eave above it.
I have done numerous brick/wall mounts with the Plus dishes, IMO that's the best type of mount for that big SOB, here's the problem though... of the installers I worked with, none of them had a electric hammer drill, thus I was about the only one in my shop capable of doing brick/wall mounts. I had one because I use my personal, only 14.4v drills are issued, I wouldn't attempt drilling a 1/2" hole into brick on a 14.4v battery - though that can differ between each installer.
What I'm getting at is if you have LOS great, but don't count on the tech having a hammer capable of doing that.
Brick, not mortor.
What I'm getting at is if you have LOS great, but don't count on the tech having a hammer capable of doing that.
Brick, not mortor.
rcdallas,
I've drilled a lot of brick. Most of it is soft enough that a hammer drill isn't needed. Just a really good masonry bit. I've seen guys get a bit overzealous with hammer drills and break the brick or pop chunks off the surface. Brick is ceramic. That's why good bricks have a ringing sound when you lightly clank them together.
It will go FASTER with a hammer drill to be sure. And if you haven't broken bricks yourself then you obviously know how to do it. Just saying that for most brick I wouldn't call it a "must have".
I have just recently drilled several 3/8" holes into concrete with a 9.6v Makita. They weren't half inch holes I know, but it was concrete which can be a lot tougher than brick. I think it's the bit.
Man.... sometimes I can feel my foot trying to slide into my mouth.... I'm not arguing your technique. What you're doing works. I think the crux of the issue is that a lot of the installers are poorly equipped. I've had installers here use my step ladder, wrenches, and other stuff. I'm certainly not equipped as an installer but I had more stuff than some of THEM had. They send out these kids who generally know HOW to do the work, but have a significantly less than complete set of tools with which to do it. It's also a little disconcerting when you have to explain basic building construction to them so they understand why you want them to drill that hole about 6 inches lower and NOT go through into the baseboard heating system on the other side of that wall.
I've drilled a lot of brick. Most of it is soft enough that a hammer drill isn't needed. Just a really good masonry bit. I've seen guys get a bit overzealous with hammer drills and break the brick or pop chunks off the surface. Brick is ceramic. That's why good bricks have a ringing sound when you lightly clank them together.
It will go FASTER with a hammer drill to be sure. And if you haven't broken bricks yourself then you obviously know how to do it. Just saying that for most brick I wouldn't call it a "must have".
I have just recently drilled several 3/8" holes into concrete with a 9.6v Makita. They weren't half inch holes I know, but it was concrete which can be a lot tougher than brick. I think it's the bit.
Man.... sometimes I can feel my foot trying to slide into my mouth.... I'm not arguing your technique. What you're doing works. I think the crux of the issue is that a lot of the installers are poorly equipped. I've had installers here use my step ladder, wrenches, and other stuff. I'm certainly not equipped as an installer but I had more stuff than some of THEM had. They send out these kids who generally know HOW to do the work, but have a significantly less than complete set of tools with which to do it. It's also a little disconcerting when you have to explain basic building construction to them so they understand why you want them to drill that hole about 6 inches lower and NOT go through into the baseboard heating system on the other side of that wall.
