dream wires
- Thread starter volkodav
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you sir are incorrect .. you need to read the dpp receiver info.. it clearly states that you DO NOT need a power inserter for a dpp receiver.. ill get it and post it here..may take a bit .. my scanner is on the fritz
No, he's not incorrect. Power inserter should be in port one, period. Otherwise something will fail. THATS why I would never ever let anyone touch a line in MY house, YMMV.
VodkaDave (this sounds better and is easier to say than VolkoDav),
I am interested knowing more about the "vaulted sealing". Do you use a special caulking gun to for that? (I couldn't resist piling on)
Seriously, you did a superb job and obviously planned things out very well. I would put this setup in my own house. Things are very tidy, etc, etc. blah blah. For some reason, I love to nick-pick at trivial things that nobody else cares about. And since you asked for feedback with lots of nice pics to review…well, let’s just say my office job was a little more enjoyable today. But like trying to find the hidden paper clip in those “I Spy” picture books, it was hard to find anything (trivial or otherwise) to point out. But here it goes.
1. I agree with other poster that house trim/wood looks a little shaky for all that hardware.
2. You may want to double-check how tight/snug some your the plastic ties are. Some look pretty tight. I am also a plastic tie freak. But I have learned many times over that zip ties that are too tight can, and will, damage the wires inside, even if it doesn’t “cut through” the wire sleeve or even look too tight. This may sound obvious, but I have found that missing the “snug-ness sweet spot” can be deceptively easy to do.
3. In the same vein, you may want to ease up on some of the 90 degree turns on some of the wiring, particularly the coax cables. This can damage the wires, obviously, if too sharp of a corner/fold is done. It looks like a couple of them may be close to the limit. I realize you are going for a clean look, but you can still have both.
4. Have you considered (kind of late now after all that work) getting a home distribution box to run everything through? This is what I have, but I have a new home. I am also aware, you have your own switches, etc. and some may not fit in box. But, perhaps you can fashion a false wall on a hinge or something to hide the panel/wires, basically building making your own box/door around your pegboard with wood or drywall, yet still be able to get to them.
5. Oh, and for something really trivial, I see a few plastic ties that need to be trimmed (in pic # 4, 5, 7), and the labels are not perfectly lined up on the pegboard nor are they the same length.
I am interested knowing more about the "vaulted sealing". Do you use a special caulking gun to for that? (I couldn't resist piling on)
Seriously, you did a superb job and obviously planned things out very well. I would put this setup in my own house. Things are very tidy, etc, etc. blah blah. For some reason, I love to nick-pick at trivial things that nobody else cares about. And since you asked for feedback with lots of nice pics to review…well, let’s just say my office job was a little more enjoyable today. But like trying to find the hidden paper clip in those “I Spy” picture books, it was hard to find anything (trivial or otherwise) to point out. But here it goes.
1. I agree with other poster that house trim/wood looks a little shaky for all that hardware.
2. You may want to double-check how tight/snug some your the plastic ties are. Some look pretty tight. I am also a plastic tie freak. But I have learned many times over that zip ties that are too tight can, and will, damage the wires inside, even if it doesn’t “cut through” the wire sleeve or even look too tight. This may sound obvious, but I have found that missing the “snug-ness sweet spot” can be deceptively easy to do.
3. In the same vein, you may want to ease up on some of the 90 degree turns on some of the wiring, particularly the coax cables. This can damage the wires, obviously, if too sharp of a corner/fold is done. It looks like a couple of them may be close to the limit. I realize you are going for a clean look, but you can still have both.
4. Have you considered (kind of late now after all that work) getting a home distribution box to run everything through? This is what I have, but I have a new home. I am also aware, you have your own switches, etc. and some may not fit in box. But, perhaps you can fashion a false wall on a hinge or something to hide the panel/wires, basically building making your own box/door around your pegboard with wood or drywall, yet still be able to get to them.
5. Oh, and for something really trivial, I see a few plastic ties that need to be trimmed (in pic # 4, 5, 7), and the labels are not perfectly lined up on the pegboard nor are they the same length.
THE SYSTEM WILL NOT FAIL... I'VE HAD A 44PLUS SW AND A DPPLUS 625 FOR TWO YEARS NO INSERTER ON PORT ONE.. IT STILL WORKS.
i have installed well over 100 44 plus sw with dpplus 625's and 322's and no call backs. we are tight nit at the shop and will talk about or tc's.. all the other techs at our shop dont use inserters anymore.. so whats the deal. so we have magic powers .. no, do we have the super duper 44plus sw ...no, ... hmmm
i have installed well over 100 44 plus sw with dpplus 625's and 322's and no call backs. we are tight nit at the shop and will talk about or tc's.. all the other techs at our shop dont use inserters anymore.. so whats the deal. so we have magic powers .. no, do we have the super duper 44plus sw ...no, ... hmmm
It's definitely not reccomended. You're drawing more power than the receivers are supposed to outpot so there's the chance of damaging the receivers.
I'd think with 3 or 4 receivers it'd be more likely to work than with 1 or 2.
I'd think with 3 or 4 receivers it'd be more likely to work than with 1 or 2.
Yep. Very true. You have 1 receiver on a 44 it's more likely to fail than with multiple. Which is a tad odd, since IIRC, power is only passed through port 1.
thats only one i found I'm looking for upgraded one on line. my naibor give that one last week
i didn't notes that board ended there even when i pre drilled it it still split but all 3 mounts mounted to a stud on that board. i sealed the crack for now next year i will replace it and paint it to match
volkodav is in Russian mens Wolf crusher (killer)
i try to keep those zip ties loose but after twisting and turning cables they get a little banged up
behind the board there is 8 inches of space it seams like the cable are tight there is at least 1 ft of slack on every cable and it all loped
i hat a leventon box 18"x24"x6" only thing that fit in there was phone box and modem, so i took it out and re did it i was going to build a little wall around it to hide all that stuff as well, probably over winter
i didn't have the time to cut all of them before i took pictures i needed to do some stuff that day so i took them on the fly
Hi,
For behind the TV I highly recommend you use wall jacks that angle downward.
I have been plagued with enough 90-degree bent coaxial cables that I won't let it happen again. All of my keystone jacks are downward-angle. Not only does it look nice but it protects the cables when people shove furniture closer to a wall.
For bigger bundles of wires this neat wall plate just came out. It just routes the bundle neatly without keystone jacks or even barrel connectors:
http://www.appliedtelcomm.com/Site/Shop/ProductView.aspx?prdID=3700&asctgID=21
For behind the TV I highly recommend you use wall jacks that angle downward.
I have been plagued with enough 90-degree bent coaxial cables that I won't let it happen again. All of my keystone jacks are downward-angle. Not only does it look nice but it protects the cables when people shove furniture closer to a wall.
For bigger bundles of wires this neat wall plate just came out. It just routes the bundle neatly without keystone jacks or even barrel connectors:
http://www.appliedtelcomm.com/Site/Shop/ProductView.aspx?prdID=3700&asctgID=21
