Dropping a line?

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igator99

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Are there any tricks or tips in fishing out a cable line? It seems like it is kind of like hoping to hit the lottory. I saw one installer use a small thin pvc pipe but I didn't see exactly what he did. If you put the line in the pipe how would you get the pipe back up? I'm thinking of dropping a line for my OTA antenna.
 
charper1

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I use 1/2" conduit that has a VERY slight bend at one end. I lay that down the inside of the wall while the 2nd person is in the room where I want the outlet; I have pre-cut the required hole there.

They see the conduit, hold it, and I fish the RG6 down that until they pull it from the other end. If it is a location where I might come back to run additional cable, I use a larger diameter and leave the conduit in place. Before you ever connect the other end of the RG6 you will be able to extract the pipe from the top side.

Works 99% of the time for me. This all assumes that there is no easier access or pre-wiring of some sort. I can't see PVC being much different, other than a bit less rigid over the same length and maybe less cost.
 
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Jimbo

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igator99 said:
Are there any tricks or tips in fishing out a cable line? It seems like it is kind of like hoping to hit the lottory. I saw one installer use a small thin pvc pipe but I didn't see exactly what he did. If you put the line in the pipe how would you get the pipe back up? I'm thinking of dropping a line for my OTA antenna.


I often use an old fiberglass rod to fish the walls, I got it back in the days when the kids use to have flags flying from thier bicycles......

Another thing alot of installers use, a set of rods made specifically for wall fishing, come in a set of like 3-5 , it's been awhile since I had to use them, so there may be newer stuff out now.

Jimbo
 
Jimbo

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The Tate said:
I stress this everytime this question comes up. The magnapull is the BEST thing for wall fishing.

http://www.magnepull.com/magnepull_006.htm

I think its around 130 which is what a good set of rods would cost. It has made me alot of money and saved alot of time.


How well does it work on a outside insulated wall ??

Just wondering ...
I've seen them but never used them

Jimbo
 
HCI

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If you can get it between the paper and the drywall it is no problem. Just doing that is a challenge and sometimes works no problem and sometimes takes a few trys. But in my experience I have never had a major issue.
 
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igator99

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The Tate said:
I stress this everytime this question comes up. The magnapull is the BEST thing for wall fishing.

http://www.magnepull.com/magnepull_006.htm

I think its around 130 which is what a good set of rods would cost. It has made me alot of money and saved alot of time.


Wow that looks pretty easy. I bet it doesn't work as easy as it looks.
 
charper1

charper1

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Now I do not know either, but that wall interior looks REALLY empty, clean and open (mine are stuffed with insulation and $130?!? is high dollar for a magnet on a roller. That must be one bad ass magnet. Does it scar the wall?
 
HCI

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It does not scar the wall. It has rollers on both sides of the center piece. It is very powerfull take my word I got my forearm skin pinced in between the two. Like I said it works great with insulation as long as you can get between the paper and the drywall.
 
uboatcmdr

uboatcmdr

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igator99 said:
Are there any tricks or tips in fishing out a cable line? It seems like it is kind of like hoping to hit the lottory. I saw one installer use a small thin pvc pipe but I didn't see exactly what he did. If you put the line in the pipe how would you get the pipe back up? I'm thinking of dropping a line for my OTA antenna.
Inside or outside wall? Insulated or open? Is there an electrical outlet near where you want the coax run?
 
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igator99

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uboatcmdr said:
Inside or outside wall? Insulated or open? Is there an electrical outlet near where you want the coax run?

It is an inside wall and it is not insulated. There is an electrical outlet about four inches from it. Thanks for any advice. BTW What the heck is that picture of that you use as your avatar?
 
uboatcmdr

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igator99 said:
It is an inside wall and it is not insulated. There is an electrical outlet about four inches from it. Thanks for any advice. BTW What the heck is that picture of that you use as your avatar?
Avatar is the guy from the movie "The Treasure of the Sierra Madre" who, in the movie say's, "badges, we don't need no stinking badges!"

If the ceiling height is a standard 8 foot (even if it's a tray ceiling as long as the walls are 8 foot) and there are no firebreaks in the wall this sould be a breeze. Pull the plate off the outlet your running the coax near. See which side of the outlet the stud is on and it's location relative to where you want the new outlet. If it is on the open side of the box and not the stud side you might be able to drop the new coax through the same hole in the wall's top plate as the e outlet's wiring, if the hole is large enough, if not then drill a new hole a few inches over. If the location for the new outlet is on the opposte side of the stud you'll need to meassure over about 6-8 inches from where the outlet's wring drops and drill a new hole. Meassure the height of the electrical outlet and cut a hole in the wall for the new coax using a low voltage box (a pop in backless outlet box available at most any hardware or home supply store for a $1 or so). The hole will be large enough for you to almost stick your hand in (you may actually be able to get your hand inside the wall) and will make fishing the wire pretty easy. Find something (I usually use a long drill bit that is smaller than the hole in the top plate and tape the coax to the bit (the bit is to give the end of the coax some weight, if the bit is the type with a small pin hole in the end, strip back the caox to the stinger wire and thread it through the hole in the bit, then tape around it). Drop the bit through the hole and feed in the coax until it goes slack, you should be able to raise and lower the bit a tad and hear it hit the bottom plate of the wall or the top of the electrical outlet box. Just reach in the hole (if your hand fits through) and grab the wire or use a wire coat hanger with a hooked end to catch the wire. Put and end on the coax, install the low voltage oultet box and the new outlet face plate. The whole operation should only take 10-15 minutes.
Now if your dealing with 9 foot or taller ceilings you'll need a flex bit (about $30 or more), more time and need to use more cuation so you don't damage the wall.
 
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igator99

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uboatcmdr said:
Avatar is the guy from the movie "The Treasure of the Sierra Madre" who, in the movie say's, "badges, we don't need no stinking badges!"

If the ceiling height is a standard 8 foot (even if it's a tray ceiling as long as the walls are 8 foot) and there are no firebreaks in the wall this sould be a breeze. Pull the plate off the outlet your running the coax near. See which side of the outlet the stud is on and it's location relative to where you want the new outlet. If it is on the open side of the box and not the stud side you might be able to drop the new coax through the same hole in the wall's top plate as the e outlet's wiring, if the hole is large enough, if not then drill a new hole a few inches over. If the location for the new outlet is on the opposte side of the stud you'll need to meassure over about 6-8 inches from where the outlet's wring drops and drill a new hole. Meassure the height of the electrical outlet and cut a hole in the wall for the new coax using a low voltage box (a pop in backless outlet box available at most any hardware or home supply store for a $1 or so). The hole will be large enough for you to almost stick your hand in (you may actually be able to get your hand inside the wall) and will make fishing the wire pretty easy. Find something (I usually use a long drill bit that is smaller than the hole in the top plate and tape the coax to the bit (the bit is to give the end of the coax some weight, if the bit is the type with a small pin hole in the end, strip back the caox to the stinger wire and thread it through the hole in the bit, then tape around it). Drop the bit through the hole and feed in the coax until it goes slack, you should be able to raise and lower the bit a tad and hear it hit the bottom plate of the wall or the top of the electrical outlet box. Just reach in the hole (if your hand fits through) and grab the wire or use a wire coat hanger with a hooked end to catch the wire. Put and end on the coax, install the low voltage oultet box and the new outlet face plate. The whole operation should only take 10-15 minutes.
Now if your dealing with 9 foot or taller ceilings you'll need a flex bit (about $30 or more), more time and need to use more cuation so you don't damage the wall.

Thank you for the advice. I'm going to learn so sheet rock work while the guy is fixing my ceiling. :D
 
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