No matter if it is wrong or right we are getting told the same thing in this area no ground rods we have to ground to the homes electrical ground preferrably at the meter base.
Grounding a New Install?
- Thread starter kirkdj
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The #1 ground point is the HOUSE ground at the METER box. A secondary EXISTING ground or a home-owner installed ground on the opposite side of the structure is also acceptable. As a last resort, a grounded surge protector of at least 2000+ joules is also acceptable SO LONG AS ALL WIRES ENTERING THE HOUSE ARE GROUNDED!. The most important part is that all wires entering must be properly grounded.
SimpleSimon said:
Yeah, you should at least make an attempt to ground the thing, and some people just don't even bother.
I learned a long time ago that you're usually better off doing the EXACT OPPOSITE of whatever DNSC says. It's been proven to me countless times over the years - all the way back to "there's no way you can use a DP-Twin with a DP34".DishPro66 said:
Idiots.As for static - what you say is correct for as far as it goes, but also remember that static drain helps keep lightning away.
I see static problems with D* receiver more than E*. Also, if you remember back a few years ago, the RCA DRD420 had a screw on the back of it to attach the leader wire to in order to ground the dish and it had a 3 prong plug. That didn't last too long to say the least.
That's the idea. I lightning rod is designed to put negative ions into the air. These ions are the same charge as the lightning. This is to help encourage the lightning to strike away from the structure. For a direct strike, it will ground out the lightning. High school physics.
That's not the point. The actual odds of a direct strike is like the odds of getting hit by lightning yourself. However, residual bleed over is more of the problem. A close strik can send a good sized voltage charge down the dish from a good distance away. Better SAFE than SORRY.
