Hopper 3 and surge/spike protection on Coax and HDMI

I just meant for the same price or less, I would take the Belden's over anything else since if you look at bluejeanscable.com, the Belden's just for one cable costs as much as 4 cables so that is a cheap price as the Compression Connectors are $0.35 or less each and the CommScope cable is not that expensive either so most of the cost probably went to labor. I have all the compression tools so I can actually make my own as long as I can buy a small amount of cable.

I found this which does 3Ghz too except not sure if the product is any good or not as the one you have is similar to the stuff from L-Com.
F-Type Lightning Surge Ender - Male to Female

The one you have can be found for cheaper than Ebay here:
Alpha Delta TRANSI-TRAP SURGE PROTECTOR TT3G50F Low Loss Coax Brand New [1489644476-4393] - $12.05 :

It might be better to just buy the entire unit since you will have spares for the actual unit itself in addition to the replaceable part.
 
I now remember looking at bluejeanscable and seeing that they have good stuff. I think I went to amazon because I wanted 6 inch instead of 1 foot. When I saw the 3ghz commscope, I figured I would be ok since comcast uses it (1.2 ghz) and I though dish used it (up to 3 ghz). Regardless, it works fine.

I also think I looked at the lightning surge ender or something like it. The reason I went with AD was that I thought I read on the pdfs that the loss was less. That being said, I'm no electrical genius and could have misunderstood.
 
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I always thought DISH really only used up to 2.1Ghz since that's what satellite splitters usually is spec at. I actually have the Belden 1694A cables here for connecting high-end SuperVHS VCRs from BlueJeans cable and actually broke one of the Canere connectors when I over tightened it about 10 years ago. I just think it is confusing if the cable is 2.3Ghz or if it's 3 Ghz since obviously it's better to have 3Ghz rather than 2.3Ghz. Probably all the cables in reality are tested at higher frequencies anyways but it's marketing that makes us believe otherwise. DOCSIS 3.1 actually requires up to 1.7Ghz, which modem are you using for the Gigabit Internet? Yes, 0.1dB and up to 0.5dB maximum loss depending on the frequency is way better than 4dB loss. With the AD, is the printing actually on a sticker or is it actually on the metal since I'm concerned it will disappear in the outer environment as the Comcast one will be after the grounding block as I only have a cable modem connected to it while for DISH, I'll have it at the Hopper 3 as my cables run direct from the splitter after the 2 DISHes (500Plus + 1000.2 or was it 1002 - I have international so the 500 handles the 118 satellite on the WA). I will probably order individual cables instead since it seems I need slightly longer ones indoors even though I have the Comcast tech provided Commscope (Comcast Residential) and Amphenol Times Fiber RG-6 1Ghz (Comcast Business Internet Contractor) cables with the same connectors that Jim is selling except they are too long and on top of my scanner so I need something shorter than the 6+ foot but longer than the 6 inches as I will have a splitter/antennuator between the incoming cable and the Arris SB8200 DOCSIS 3.1 modem to balance the upstream channels so they are within range to the modem as it has no effect back to the tap. 6 inches would put the splitter right on top of the front of my scanner so need something slightly longer.
 
Mine have a sticker on 2 sides with white on 1 side and yellow on the other.

I'm using the comcast supplied Technicolor for now. I don't like to rent, but when I got it, the others were not techinically supported for some and I didn't want to mess with (like dslreports with people who had the service, but the D3.1 modem wouldn't get the speed.). When price comes down, I will probably buy like I did when I signed up originally.

My incoming cable from comcast is 1.2 commscope. Everything I have read says DOCSIS 3.1 is up to 1.2 ghz. Even wikipedia says proposed D3.1 full spectrum (symetrical, upstream and downstream at the same time) is up to that.
 
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Hopefully those stickers are durable outdoors. Technicolor is basically what was Cisco aka Scientific Atlanta that Cisco bought out so hopefully the modem is good. I don't have Gigabit service yet since don't really have a need for it, more looking into something with static IPs with a 12Mbps upstream. Commscope doesn't actually have a 1.2Ghz cable, it's actually 1002Mhz or 1.002Ghz just like their splitters. My drop is actually CommScope RG6 1.002Ghz tri-shield from the tap to the grounding block both on the far back corner of the house which was just replaced on the 17th of this month. From the grounding block, it's the same CommScope RG6 cable which goes up the roof and then comes down the front side of the house where it goes into a 3Ghz blue core coupler that was replaced on the 29th of June and then from there, it goes in on white Amphenol/Times Fiber Communications Tri-shield RG-6 directly to the modem, this part was done last year in February 2016 by the Comcast Business Internet contractor. DOCSIS 3.1 specs is actually up to 1.7Ghz as per the Cable Labs spec which you can see if you read the July 8 posts here:
[Equip] It's dead, Jim. - Comcast XFINITY | DSLReports Forums

Actually, the CommScope cable if the one you have has F677TSVV written on it, actually tests up to 1.8Ghz as this is the spec sheet for it.
http://www.commscope.com/catalog/broadband/pdf/part/46892/7451203_F677TSVV_XP.pdf

It's the TFC-10/Amphenol cable that is sweep tested up to 1Ghz only so no one knows how it performs above 1Ghz.
 
I checked my comcast cable again and have commscope f677tsvm Xpress Prep. I did an internet search and found a page which has that number. It says XpressPrep on the page and has APD XP after the number. My cable does not have the APD XP, but I think that this is what I have. The electrical performance chart shows it up to 1.8 ghz which means I was incorrect about the 1.2. I have also kept up somewhat with that dslr thread. I see where you submit for 1.8 and someone else (DocDrew) posted a comment about the plant/modem for 1.8 and the cable labs documentation of 1.2 from May 2017 so that seems to indicate 1.2 for D3.1. That is about cable and not satellite though, but I will keep an open mind.

As for my H3 install, I looked at the cable when we were getting ready to run it through the underground conduit. I don't remember what brand it was and haven't bothered to look again, but I recall it as being 3.0 ghz RG6. BTW, it was black and so probably not underground cable, but I didn't care because it is in conduit and when I was on the old setup (WA), I had black cable that was literally about 2 inches below ground not in conduit and never had a wiring issue.

I wrote previously that I thought my Dish signal is only up to about 2150 mhz from a Dish chart that I had. It could be wrong, but it says the following:

0-50 mhz - Future
650-875 mhz - MOCA On my H3 under Menu>Settings>Internet>Advanced, Limited Frequency Scan which I have off the Help (?) button says that when on, the frequency is between 800-850 and when it is off, it is 675-850.
950-1450 mhz - Sat1
1650-2150 mhz - Sat2
2500-3000 mhz - Sat3 which I do not have

Thus, the "need" for RG6. I does say that MOCA may be rg59.
 
So it looks like Comcast does use more than one model of a brand of cable. XP just means Xpress Prep I think so it's the same cable. CommScope seems to test up to 1.8Ghz but the cable can perform higher, just that they don't test it over that. I think we both have the same cable except yours has that external messenger cable while mines doesn't, no idea what the messenger cable is for to be honest.

DOCSIS is a cable tv specification and not satellite as satellite has always been 2Ghz which is why even Monster Cables splitters are 2Ghz only and not 3Ghz since we all know they will list something that exceeds whatever specs are needed. It was telcodad on dslreports who posted about the bandwidth requirements for DOCSIS 3.1 which was up to 17xxMhz but that was before DOCSIS 3.1 modems were available for sale, it's just not the current requirement but glad to see that some cables at least handle up to 1.8Ghz. I'm thinking of getting a longer piece of cable to replace the Amphenol cable I have from Jim's cable world although it may not be necessary until the cable plants get upgraded. I just wished someone else tested the Amphenol to see what it can actually handle in reality instead of stopping at a certain frequency.

I noticed with both Directv and DISH, the cables are always white and no idea what brand it is as it doesn't say. DISH was going to use the Dual Coax I had with Directv except I still had service so they had to run a new cable in 2012 when the H2K was installed. I actually wished I got black cables since someone said any other color that is not black does not have UV protection. MOCA is actually 1002Mhz-1.2Ghz which is why DOCSIS 3.1 modems no longer has the MoCA filter built in like the DOCSIS 3.0 modems such as the Arris SB6190 did.

About the Surge Protector, someone asked me in a thread of DSLReports for the part number for the ARC Plug and I noticed that the Surge Protector comes with the 200watt ARC Plug but there is a version that is 2000Watts, you just have to add HP after the part number that is the same price which is actually $13-$15, just not sure if it works on this model of the surge protector or not so I emailed Alpha Delta to see what they say.
 
I figured that the wattage was for power going through the cable, but I do not know for sure.

I am pretty sure that the wattage has nothing to do with the amount of surge going through the line.

The 20 W one that I got works fine.
 
I kept thinking the wattage was how much surge protection it offers so the higher the rating, the more the ARC Plug will handle before it dies, sort of like the joules rating on surge protectors. I'll see what Alpha Delta says. Something interesting is using the link you provided earlier, in the characteristics impedance for specifications, it seems to list both models as 50Ohms unless they forgot to put 75Ohms for the other one since this would be a impedance mismatch. Although to be honest, I think the specs are for the N version since they even show the connectors as N in the specs area.

There is a thread about the sweeping frequency and requirement for cables in general and DISH just needs 2150Mhz as I thought.

Why Is 3GHz RG6 Important?
 
I never heard back from Alpha Delta but it seems like they forgot to list the specs for the 75Ohm version and treating the 75Ohm as a 50Ohm model.

I e-mailed Jim at Jim's Cable World asking him if the cables were 3Ghz or 2.3Ghz and this is his response so according to him, RF cable for what we are using it for has the signal on the shield and not the actual conductor itself as this was his response and he no longer sells 2.3Ghz cable.

"I no longer carry 3 GHz cable since I only use the number one cable brand in the world which is Commscope, and also the brand used most cable and dish companies. Even though Commscope specs are tested at 2300 MHz, you could take a cable that is listed as 1000 MHz and it still should pass the 3 GHz test since your cable serves as signal transport agent, not to mention that when your signal hits the 1000 or 2000 MHz splitter, it will not allow more than 1000 or 2000 MHz through the cable anyhow.

In conclusion the term tested to 3 GHz is similar to the Chinese selling scams of monster cables, monster speaker wires and other monster everything else that were so popular in the 90's. It didn't take long for consumers to realize that they were paying up to four times as much for a cable that had the same, and many times inferior quality. Another example of Chinese products scams are the 'Gold' series splitters and connectors. If anyone thinks they are getting an actual gold plated splitter for under five bucks, apparently they haven't checked the gold prices lately. The only nice thing about 'Gold' splitters is that you don't have to recycle them because they are usually made of cheap plastic with gold paint.

When purchasing cable what you really want to look for is the quality of the cable jacket since signal travels around the outside of the cable, not through cable so whether it is solid copper of copper clad, it doesn't matter other than copper corrodes easier, so the lifetime of copper clad cables exceeds solid copper cables. As for sheilding, cables come in a range from Single-Shield, Dual-Shield, Tri-Shield and Quad-Shield. I would not recommend Single-Shield cable since there is very little shielding and even something as simple as a garage door opener or the spark plugs in your car running outside could cause interference. Dual-Shield is ok and also the choice of some Satellite companies, but they can get away with less shielding because most of their signal is transferred on the higher frequency spectrum, and personally I recommend Tri-Shield over Quad-Shield. Why Tri-Shield over Quad-Shield? It's a well known fact in the cable and satellite industry that Tri-Shield outperforms Quad-Shield due to Tri-Shields one braid shielding system with a higher percentage of braid than Quad-Shields two layers of shielding with the same percentage braid count. So the bottom line is you get approximately the same amount of braid coverage with both the Tri-Shield and the Quad-Shield and the foil layers are exactly the same. The big difference that makes the Tri-Shield better than the Quad-Shield is that the Tri-Shield is a tighter woven ribbed, one shielded cable where the Quad-shield has a looser jacket due to its two thinner layers of braid, which in return causes the cable jacket to be more spongy, creating poor connection seals which can cause problems with signal leakage, poor picture quality and signal packet loss. Also with a looser jacket, overtime weather and bends in the cable will cause the Quad-Shield cable to become out of round and cause tiling and packet loss, since the signal can't flow consistently down the center conductor when the jacket is out of round. Tri-Shield eliminates these problems, making Tri-Shield the cable of choice with most major cable companies and dish networks."
 
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I have never seen tri-shield. Will it work with my current dual shield compression tool and fittings? Sounds like it will not.

I will be in the market for another reel of coax soon.

And "he no longer sells 2.3 GHz cable" vs "I no longer carry 3 GHz cable?"
 
The cables Comcast uses Amphenol/Times Fiber Communications TFC-10 RG-6 sweep tested to 1Ghz and CommScope sweep tested to 1.8Ghz are both Tri-Shield cables and not Quad Shield. I think any tool that works with Quad Shield should handle TriShield without problems. The Belden 1694A which Markertek sells by the foot is Dual Shield cable and supposedly better than other cables and tested to 4.5Ghz at 68 cents a foot, not sure what the standard price for RG-6 cable is.
 
I had the same problem with Alpha Delta when I was looking to buy. I emailed them again and they finally responded.
Which email address did you use?

Also, Jim from Jim's Cable World responded saying that what he meant was actually the surface of the conductor and not the surface of the cable meaning the shield that the signals transmit on, still sounds weird since once would assume the signal uses the entire conductor and not just the surface.
 
Which email address did you use?

Also, Jim from Jim's Cable World responded saying that what he meant was actually the surface of the conductor and not the surface of the cable meaning the shield that the signals transmit on, still sounds weird since once would assume the signal uses the entire conductor and not just the surface.

I used the email address that the site says is for support. In my second email, I wrote that I had already emailed the question once and had received no response. I got a response the next day or the day after.

Also, I did check out the cables that Jim's cable world sent and they are 1.8 Ghz.

It makes sense that they would probably work at 3GHZ especially since my cable is only 6 inches long.

I did go ahead and order one of those Belden cable's from bluejeans cable that you mentioned only because I want it. I'm sure it won't be a difference being 1 foot long, but I understand they are good cables and I wanted to blow the money I guess. Since I only need one for the connection to my receiver I only bought one. My alpha delta surge protectors on other devices are limited to moca and regular cable which is well under 1.8ghz.

I'm not that knowledgeable when it comes to RF and coax, but I'm pretty sure the signal travels on the wire inside. I asked for it traveling on the shield also, I do not know.
 
I used the email address that the site says is for support. In my second email, I wrote that I had already emailed the question once and had received no response. I got a response the next day or the day after.

Also, I did check out the cables that Jim's cable world sent and they are 1.8 Ghz.

It makes sense that they would probably work at 3GHZ especially since my cable is only 6 inches long.

I did go ahead and order one of those Belden cable's from bluejeans cable that you mentioned only because I want it. I'm sure it won't be a difference being 1 foot long, but I understand they are good cables and I wanted to blow the money I guess. Since I only need one for the connection to my receiver I only bought one. My alpha delta surge protectors on other devices are limited to moca and regular cable which is well under 1.8ghz.

I'm not that knowledgeable when it comes to RF and coax, but I'm pretty sure the signal travels on the wire inside. I asked for it traveling on the shield also, I do not know.

The one I used is the jfburns one as mentioned here. https://www.alphadeltacom.com/contact.html

Jim sent you 1.8Ghz cables and not even the 2.3Ghz cables? To be honest, I would just make the cable since the Belden cable is only 0.68/foot with shipping included from Markertek and the connectors are $0.35 a piece. I am still wondering who has the better connector since the Canare seems to also handle the pin like a BNC connector does but is a crimped connector compared to Compression that the cable/satellite cables use which seems to leave the conductor bare. I actually broke one of the Canare connectors with the cables I bought from BlueJeans like 10-15 years ago, even though it works but I overtightened them with a wrench so the collar split from the body but still seems to tighten fine, that was when I used it with high-end SVHS VCRs though. For your receiver, did you get the F connector or something else? It seems like that cable will work as a RF Cable for satellite/video, as a standard Audio cable and also as a digital SPDIF Audio cable. I actually also have the later too. I forgot but there was another company that uses the same cables and priced lower than BlueJeans. I mean Jim made it seem like the signal only travels on the surface of the copper but like any voltage, it'll just use up the entire metal medium.
 
I got the Commscope number off of it and on the Commscope information I read, it goes up to one point where it is talking about loss so that's how I read it. However those cables obviously work at a higher frequency than that as has been mentioned here.

I got F connectors on my cable from Belden
 
The funny thing is that in Jim's items for sale and website, it basically is talking about how his 3Ghz cables will handle everything so one would assume he is only selling the best product available and then in his e-mail, he basically made it sound like any cable regardless who makes it that is rated at 1Ghz can handle 3Ghz without issues so from a customer perspective, it would steer them away as there would be no incentive to purchase his cables when any cable at 1Ghz will work fine and probably at less cost. I'll just stick with Compression connectors for now since it seems like techs will probably blame and replace the Canare connectors if there are ever any problems while it's fine if it's between your own equipment not connected to a provider as no one will cut and replace it.
 
I've always heard here, surface of the center conductor. So unless you're passing voltage too, solid copper not really needed.
 
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I've always heard here, surface of the center conductor. So unless you're passing voltage too, solid copper not really needed.

Interesting, how does it actually pick which part of the conductor to travel on? Since one can see that it's the surface of the copper that makes contact at both ends with the center hole of the jack it's going on. Copper I think would make the cable more flexible as there can still be different grades of copper. Haven't found anyone selling just the bare cable itself by the foot for the CommScope cables so the Belden 1694A from Markertek at $0.68/foot with free shipping seems like a good deal as there is no minimum purchase requirement for the free shipping.