How to make a concrete slab?

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I did not word myself correctly. The area that is counter sunk is around the area where the pole bolts on. The actual area where the pole bolts on is above ground, 4 inches, and probably 4 inches around the bolts. The other areas are below ground. I don't think this pole would rust out, it is over a 1/4 of an inch thick. The old pole was in the ground,with dirt around it, for over 22 some years and only had some minor surface rust around it when it was removed.

Now, another question, now that everything is done for the slab, how long to wait before I can bolt the dish down?
 
Wow I must be lucky. I am in South East TN/North Georgia and I've had 2 10' BUDs and an 8.5' Bud at different locations over the last few years in my area. At all three I've dug a hole about 6" by as deep as I could still get the post hole diggers to open. (maybe 18-24" deep) Then I plumbed the pole and added a bag of Quikrete Red to the hole and then added water. My current 8.5' has been up this way for about 7 years and still tracks Ku from 72w to 123w without issues. I just wish I had the room to move that 8.5' from it's current location to my house. I rarely get to use the 8.5 anymore. :(
 
If you are not going to bring the concrete above ground level, at lest do your self a favor and tar the top of the slab and the post that is in the concrete to above ground level. My pictures do not show the tar etc very well and the pole was backfilled, but the concrete was above the expected final ground level. Wet (not just green) concrete will cause the pole to rust and corrode - if not tarred or greased. Below ground will be wet enough for the electrolysis.
 
If you are not going to bring the concrete above ground level, at lest do your self a favor and tar the top of the slab and the post that is in the concrete to above ground level. My pictures do not show the tar etc very well and the pole was backfilled, but the concrete was above the expected final ground level. Wet (not just green) concrete will cause the pole to rust and corrode - if not tarred or greased. Below ground will be wet enough for the electrolysis.

The post does not go into the cement. This is a post from an old radioshack dish. The post bolts onto J-Bolts above the cement. The cement never touches the pole.
 
OK, I see now the pipe sticking up is for cables. Then be sure to use lots of grease or anti-seize on the J-bolt and nut threads. Keeps the rust off. the thread part which will not be rust proof once you put the nuts on -- I do not want to explain how I know. And my J-Bolts are inside the building.
 
OK, I see now the pipe sticking up is for cables. Then be sure to use lots of grease or anti-seize on the J-bolt and nut threads. Keeps the rust off. the thread part which will not be rust proof once you put the nuts on -- I do not want to explain how I know. And my J-Bolts are inside the building.

The nuts will strip some of the galvanizing off the threads when they are put on. I'll keep it lubed up.
 
I did not word myself correctly. The area that is counter sunk is around the area where the pole bolts on. The actual area where the pole bolts on is above ground, 4 inches, and probably 4 inches around the bolts. The other areas are below ground. I don't think this pole would rust out, it is over a 1/4 of an inch thick. The old pole was in the ground,with dirt around it, for over 22 some years and only had some minor surface rust around it when it was removed.

Now, another question, now that everything is done for the slab, how long to wait before I can bolt the dish down?

The pipe that is coming out of the ground is a sleeve for the pipe that you will be using...Ok, if with past experience you did not have any issues with rust although the two pieces of pipe manufacturing (22 years) will not be the same, I would still error on the safe side to protect the pipe that will be in the ground from excess moisture.

Candid
 
I did not word myself correctly. The area that is counter sunk is around the area where the pole bolts on. The actual area where the pole bolts on is above ground, 4 inches, and probably 4 inches around the bolts. The other areas are below ground. I don't think this pole would rust out, it is over a 1/4 of an inch thick. The old pole was in the ground,with dirt around it, for over 22 some years and only had some minor surface rust around it when it was removed.

OK, I can visualize that. That will be just fine.

Now, another question, now that everything is done for the slab, how long to wait before I can bolt the dish down?

Personally, I would give it three days minimum. Longer would be better and it all depends upon the concrete you used and the temperature and humidity.

RADAR
 
Temp has been in the 60s. Concrete is just a standard 60lb bag of ready mix (just add water). Dunno the humidity, but it's been raining the past 2 days.
 
Temp has been in the 60s. Concrete is just a standard 60lb bag of ready mix (just add water). Dunno the humidity, but it's been raining the past 2 days.

Coin, sounds like your weather is good for the concrete to set up well. As long as it isn't raining a deluge. I am not an expert on masonry, but I think the moderate temperature and added moisture is good for the curing process in the long run. That helps to slow the chemical process and make it set up more completely. If your rain is like what I am getting here (just drizzly and not a torrent) and it isn't freezing at night, you may have very desirable conditions. It means that it will take longer to set up or cure, but it will be a better grade of finished concrete when done. I'd give it a couple of days after the rain has moved out of your area.

RADAR
 
An EF4 tornado passed with in a mile of the 8.5 dish last week. The power is out so I can't say if the dish is still tracking correctly or not though it looks like the mount may have twisted slightly by looking at my alignment marks. I did check the pole and found it was still plumb so all I may have to loosen up the bolts and rotate the mount back in line.
 
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FTA newbie requesting some advise!

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