Is it possible to damage your recievers ability to use a switch?

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Jasontherock

SatelliteGuys Family
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Oct 29, 2008
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Is it possible to damage your recievers ability to use a switch? I am new and just starting FTA. Love it. Right now I can pick up 89w and 123W using two separate Superdishes with the Linear bandstacked lnbf's that were used for 105W by dishnetwork. My reciever is a coolsat 5000. When I attach a legacy dishnetwork 21 switch so that I can have both satellites only the satellite that I connect first will work on the coolsat. I have tried 11 different 21 switches and 2 different 34 switches. When it comes to the coolsat when I tried the 21 switches I set 89 to the legacy21 sat one port and the 123 to the legacy 21 sat two port. When messing with the 34 I really didnt know what i was doing with the committed and uncommited thing in relation the the disc switch settings. Some help there might resolve the issue.
 
always make sure to power the receiver off with the switch on the back (I remember saying that a while back with the tip of the iceberg)

but for the DP34 its just ports 1,2,3

uncommitted is for 8x1 switches that clearly say uncommitted...otherwise just use Diseqc 1.0
 
What you are saying is that I should have unplugged my reciever to add the switch and damaged my reciever or are you saying that I need to reset my reciever before the switching will start working?
 
please read the 1st post in the link I posted above (the tip of the iceberg)...that will answer the question :)
 
another opinion:

1. I don't think there's a lot of chance you would damage an FTA receiver, but you could!
So, do what Iceberg indicated, and unplug the receiver before proceeding.

If you did damage the receiver, then it wouldn't power the LNB nor switch at all!

2. most switches used by FTAers are delicate and can be blown by connecting them hot.
Do what Iceberg indicated, and unplug the receiver before proceeding.

3. Dish Network switches (you are using a Dish SW21, right?) generally survive hot switching.
But, do what Iceberg indicated, and unplug the receiver before proceeding.

4. Generally speaking, most FTA receivers won't command SW21 switches unless loaded with hacker firmware.
I only bring this up because I saw a little bit of such support one time.
I don't know how widespread it is.
So, unless your receiver specifically calls out such support, you don't have it.

5. In the Dish Network world, you use all Legacy or you use all DishPro (their name for the bandstacked stuff) switches and LNBs.
You do NOT MIX them!
Since you have bandstacked LNBs, the DP-34's would work.

6. See the DP-34 switch thread for more info about using them in an FTA environment.
All receivers with diseqc support will run 'em without a problem.
And DP-34's are rugged beasties.
 
I managed to burn up the diseqc function on a Globesat receiver. Not sure how I did it but everything else worked on it and used it for several years for FTA as a stand alone.
 
Well, I put a coolsat 6000 on it and low and behold the switch works. I burned up the switching cabability of the 5000. I am so upset at myself right now. Now that I think of it when I ordered I got a motor with it. I wrote the motor off as doa. Maybe it was the reciever. i will try the motor again. Thanks for the help, Jason
 
It still works without a switch.
Try turning 22Khz on and see if the switching works.

Also if you have one of the newer cheap analog meters that shows H/V and 22Khz you should also be able to see the DiSEqC commands go by as flashes on the 22Khz LED. You can confirm with the working 6000 and then run the same test with the 5000.
 
I have the 22khz toggle and led. but no H/V. for this test I just need the 22khz led right?
 
I have the 22khz toggle and led. but no H/V. for this test I just need the 22khz led right?

Right. I recommend trying with 22Khz enabled just because that will prove if it is generating a 22Khz tone correctly and might unwedge something with switching.

You should see the LED lit with 22Khz on and when selecting DiSEqc ports you should see the pulses on the LED. It should pulse with 22Khz off or on, but test it out and see if something works for you.
 
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