GEOSATpro Is my MicroHD broken for good

markbone100

SatelliteGuys Pro
Original poster
Jan 15, 2011
319
8
IL
My microHD has decided to no longer properly work. When testing it this is what I have found

22K is stuck on, will not switch off. Verified with a new 22k switch and also with one of those satellite meters that have LEDs for 22K on/off and for 13/18 volts. Voltage is correct and works properly at the LNB. Also verified the switch works by testing it on another receiver (openbox s10). Diseqc 1.2 and USALS no longer works, seems to be no longer sending out any commands. Diseqc 1.0 is the same way testing on a known working switch.

It does scan and will receive a satellite, as long as it is stationary and no 22K tone is needed. So for a stationary dish it works fine

I have done a factory reset, reflashed the firmware to the latest factory version, checked for correct latitude and longitude, but it all points to a box that has just about stopped working.

Is there anything internal I can test/check/replace that may have gone out that controls the diseqc tone bursts to get the receiver back working like it used to?
 
the standard 10750 lnb which is not faulty, everything tests and works fine on another receiver. But I have no problems receiving with it stuck on, I just cant turn 22k off and no diseqc commands outputted from the microhd box no matter what lnb I use or configuration used, even bypassing everything with new coax and testing straight out of the microhd into a motor or tester
 
Have you tried shutting the 22khz off with nothing attached to the receiver?

This is a long shot, but is the F connector on the back of the receiver loose? I'd noticed my MicroHd acting flaky with my V box and switch, initially thought it was the V box, but it ended up the F connector on the Micro was loose.
 
Tried that, it still makes no difference. F connector on the back of the box is tight, no broken joints.

Opening it up I found three capacitors that are bulged out on the top pretty good, I ordered some and will replace those and see if that fixes anything. While checking again this time the 22K light was off, but as the receiver warmed up the 22k indicator light slowly lit up to solid on. Since the tester is confirmed 100% working and operational, I will replace the capacitors and try again. If that dont fix it, then I have no option but to retire it out of service
 
After replacing the three badcapacitors this is what I have found out

On vertical transponders - 22K stuck on, no motor movement (same as before starting)
On horizontal transponders - 22K works, motor moves correctly (both were not functional before starting)

But in the process I have somehow killed it in where signal quality and intensity are at 0/0, going back to the openbox I can receive, which means the microhd has a new fault. As cheap as some of the other receivers are in the reviews section, its due time to get a new one and not worry about this one anymore
 
That's too bad, when I read your post of the bulged caps and the description of the startup behavior, I figured that would be it. :(

I'm sure you did, but I'll ask anyway, did you replace the bad caps with ones of the same uf/voltage (voltage rating can be higher) rating and pay attention to polarity?

If there's other electrolytic caps in the area of the bad ones you changed, check them too, they could be on thier way out too.
 
The originals were 10V 470uf, replaced with 16V 470uf. When trying to resolder them since it had some play one of the metal "hole" inserts came out of the pcb. Soon as I seen that I knew it was over
 
Those caps values are fine. The barrel problem may be fixable, it would depend on how many connection layers there is in the circuit board of the MicroHd.

If there's only a connection on each side of the board, you can scrape off the insulation on the trace on each side of the board and solder to it, with small jumper wires, if needed. I usually use a single strand of copper wire for doing that.

If it's a three layer or more board with connections in the middle of the board, then you're probably sunk, unless the torn out barrel happened to be on the negative terminal of one of the caps. If that's the case, then most likely you could connect that leg to ground.
 
Thanks for the help you have supplied, but I have tossed it and bought a new one. Everything works great now so im a happy camper now
 
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