I'm using a WSI 741 Standard with a Ecoda 22khz Switch( External ) and running a Gbox, without any issues. Except the 5 sec Delay for the Gbox to kick in.
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GEOSATpro Micro not talking DiSEqC to V-Box
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I'm using a WSI 741 Standard with a Ecoda 22khz Switch( External ) and running a Gbox, without any issues. Except the 5 sec Delay for the Gbox to kick in.
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Well ill be a monkey uncle....
Took the built in 22K switch on the WSI741 LNB out of the line and now its moving my dish PERFECTLY!
I am going to take a ECODA 22K switch outside and see if I can get KU as well... if I can I am going to be VERY happy! (Just waiting for the thunder storm to pass!)
Took the built in 22K switch on the WSI741 LNB out of the line and now its moving my dish PERFECTLY!
I am going to take a ECODA 22K switch outside and see if I can get KU as well... if I can I am going to be VERY happy! (Just waiting for the thunder storm to pass!)
I will order a few WSI 741 LNBFs and see what is different about the design. There has to be something non-compliant with the internal 22khz switch to cause upstream issues...
Scott,
Shipping the Vbox-X back to you tomorrow with a few gifts. Enjoy!!!
Scott,
Shipping the Vbox-X back to you tomorrow with a few gifts. Enjoy!!!
Well I couldn't wait... the thunder stopped but the rain continued. Grabbed the ladder again and hooked up the external ECODA 22K switch and ran the cable to the LNB.
Came inside and couldn't tune anything then realized I wired it backwards. So that the C Band was on the 22K side and the KU was on the non switched side.
So ran back outside and reversed my wires and now things are GOOD. I am switching back and forth between C/KU and the satellites with the positioner moving the dish like its supposed to!
I can't tell you how excited I am now to have this fully functioning!! Now I have FULL C/KU band from 83 over to 131! (I should be able to go a lot lower then 83 but the dish seems to flop when I go further then that so 83 is my safe point and I don't speak spanish so I am not missing too much (I hope)
and the best part of this all is I can tune / move my dish anywhere using my Slingbox.
Time to go play!
Thanks Brian!
Came inside and couldn't tune anything then realized I wired it backwards. So that the C Band was on the 22K side and the KU was on the non switched side.
So ran back outside and reversed my wires and now things are GOOD. I am switching back and forth between C/KU and the satellites with the positioner moving the dish like its supposed to!
I can't tell you how excited I am now to have this fully functioning!! Now I have FULL C/KU band from 83 over to 131! (I should be able to go a lot lower then 83 but the dish seems to flop when I go further then that so 83 is my safe point and I don't speak spanish so I am not missing too much (I hope)
and the best part of this all is I can tune / move my dish anywhere using my Slingbox. Time to go play!
Thanks Brian!
This is FUN!
Since I blew away all my motor settings from my GBOX, I am kind of cheating here to tune in the satellites...
Between the microHD and the positioner I have my AI Turbo S2 meter hooked up and then am moving the dish until I get a signal on my meter, I then fine tune things looking at the meter on the SuperBuddy and then save the position on the microHD. Doing it via this method I have found I can get down all the way to 72! (I thought 83 was the furthest I could go!)
Doing it this way is almost like shooting fish in a barrel.
I can't tell you how happy I am right now...
Perhaps if the weather is nice this weekend I may go out and play with the actuator and see if I can hit 55 degrees. I hear there is some interesting stuff from time to time there. I know I can hit it as I have hit it before, in fact I think I went down to around 30 degrees before, its just setting the actuator correctly. (At least that is my thinking.) the actuator is a 36 inch heavy duty... on a 8 foot dish...
Since I blew away all my motor settings from my GBOX, I am kind of cheating here to tune in the satellites...
Between the microHD and the positioner I have my AI Turbo S2 meter hooked up and then am moving the dish until I get a signal on my meter, I then fine tune things looking at the meter on the SuperBuddy and then save the position on the microHD. Doing it via this method I have found I can get down all the way to 72! (I thought 83 was the furthest I could go!)
Doing it this way is almost like shooting fish in a barrel.
I can't tell you how happy I am right now...
Perhaps if the weather is nice this weekend I may go out and play with the actuator and see if I can hit 55 degrees. I hear there is some interesting stuff from time to time there. I know I can hit it as I have hit it before, in fact I think I went down to around 30 degrees before, its just setting the actuator correctly. (At least that is my thinking.) the actuator is a 36 inch heavy duty... on a 8 foot dish...
Glad you guys got it all figured out, well sorta now Brian has got to figure out why. I don't use the built in 22khz switch on my 741 so that is probably why I didn't see a problem. Anyway glad you are up and running Scott.
I am one of the of the user of a DMX-741 LNBF. After all of this is said and done, what is the final wiring connections/configuration when using the microHD, the Ecoda switch, and the DMX-741 LNBF all together.
Will someone please, print a wiring layout, and and the right ports used of all the components involved for the functional setup
Thank You.
Will someone please, print a wiring layout, and and the right ports used of all the components involved for the functional setup
Thank You.
The WSI DMX741 standard version has a non compatible internal 22khz switch. To use the DMX741 C/KU LNBF, you will need to use an external switch that passes 22khz signals (such as the Ecoda or Chieta 22khz switch or a DiSEqC switch).
Example with 22khz switch:
microHD>>> Vbox-X>>> Ecoda 22KHz>>>Port 22/ON to the KU-band port>>> Port 22/OFF to the C-band port. In the microHD, Turn 22khz OFF for C-band satellites and ON for KU-band.
Example with 22khz switch:
microHD>>> Vbox-X>>> Ecoda 22KHz>>>Port 22/ON to the KU-band port>>> Port 22/OFF to the C-band port. In the microHD, Turn 22khz OFF for C-band satellites and ON for KU-band.
Thanks Brian,
So ports 22 are in refference to the Vbox-X?..... I believe that you already mentioned the configuration to the Ecoda switch when using the GBOX (which I own one of them), but to make sure that I am clear underatanding the wiring/porting of the DMX-741 to the Ecoda switch, port #1 (LNB 1, 0KHZ) of the Ecoda goes to the Ku- band side and port #2 (LNB 2, 22KHZ) goes to the C- band side of the LNBF. Then on the microHD turn 22KHZ off for C-Band satellites and ON for Ku- Band.
Brian,...I am using one of your 3 foot offset dish with an Invacom for Ku viewing, and will "try" to use the $69.99 dish special with the DMX-741 (I also have a C&KU BAND LNBF, GEOSATpro CK1)....My question is, will it be best to use the microHD and the CK1 with the six foot dish, or to have one dedicated dish for KU band and another for C- band.
I had tried to use two both dishes with the Fortec Lifetime Ultra, and did not know to get them to work. I would like to use both dishes, one with the Invacom SNH-031, and the six foot dish with either the DMX-741 or the GEOSAT pro CK1....Either way, since I have put the Fortec to bed, how would I be able to wire and use the GBOX, CK1 or DMX-741 LNBF, and the Ecoda 0/22Khz switch with the microHD. I hope that I am not asking too much of your time.
Thank You.
"Port 22/ON and Port 22/OFF" are the labelled ports on the Ecoda switch. Just to clear up any confusion.
Don't think you will be very happy with a 6' dish for c-band. C/KU LNBFs have acceptable performance on larger dishes and you will have a less than optimal system trying to make a C/KU LNBF work for reliable reception on a 6'. I would suggest separate C and KU-band dishes.
Add a USALS motor to the KU dish and follow this wiring suggestion:
- microHD >>> 2x1 high performance 2ghz/3ghz splitter all ports power passing
- Splitter Port 1:Gbox >>> linear actuator for C-band dish (no connection to C-band LNBF)
- Splitter Port 2 to USALS motor for KU-band dish >>> 22khz switch
- 22khz switch Port: 22khz/ON >>> KU LNBF
- 22khz switch Port: 22khz/OFF >>> C-band LNBF
Thanks Brian,
On the same thought of using two dishes would you agree that it would best to have a single "C" band LNBF on the six foot dish, and to use a single Ku band LNBF on the three foot dish, or just not make a connection to the C band section of the dual (C/Ku) LNBF.
On another thread we talked abou the switching of the channels numbers from high to low. When I first received the microHD, did the software update as it was mentioned by Iceberg.....Went to the lone Ku satellite dish, and scanned from 89W to 123W, all the channel numbers were of the lower sequence....After that disconnected from the Ku dish, and connected the C band dish using the DMX-741 LNBF, that is where all those high to low numbers started changing....Is it possible that the Ku side of the DMX-741 was affecting/reverting things from the prevous scanned Ku channels from the three foot dish, or am I all wet on this assumption.
Anyway I will follow with your wiring suggestion, and will order the 2ghz/3ghz splitter very soon.
Thanks.
I don't get the need for the splitter. Why not just do this?: MicroHD coax out>>>> coax in [G-box] (using DiSEqC commands) coax out>>>>coax in [DiSEqC motor] (USALS commands) coax out>>>[4x1 DiSEqC switch] Port 1= C-band lnb, port 2 = KU band lnb (last 2 ports left for future expansion)
The G-box uses DiSEqC motor commands, and passes while it ignores USALS motor commands. The DiSEqC motor takes the USALS commands and just works.
The G-box uses DiSEqC motor commands, and passes while it ignores USALS motor commands. The DiSEqC motor takes the USALS commands and just works.
That way works as well....
Have found that the splitters provide less signal loss than passing through the controllers. Also have had issues with interference (RF leaks) on the controller boxes.
Started the practice of using quality splitters on the old SG2100 motors. The splitters usually provide a few crucial extra Signal Quality points that would be lost in passing through the motors.
In my experience, the C2 totally outperformed the CK1 in C-band performance. I would assume that this true with all combination C/KU LNBFs.
I do not see a connection
Interesting. Guess I'll have to also try this, as I'm about to set up my new c band dish this weekend next to my KU one. It's not easy finding time when you work 12 hour shifts. You don't really feel like doing anything too big when you get home, but I have the weekend off and my pole has been drying the cement since last Friday. Ten 80 - lb bags, and 1 bag down the pole itself. I don't believe in skimping at that part of it.
WOW, this is getting interesting, I have a three and a half years old SG2100 motor, I do not know if this qualifies as an "Old" motor. Learning something new every day.
Well, being the OP of this thread I'll say that using the Ecoda 22khz switch instead of the built-in 22khz in my DMS 741 lnbf solved the problem. The MicroHD now stores positions to the V-Box and motors fine.
So, other than Brian trying to find out why, I'd say this thread can be closed and any new issues can be reported in a proper new thread. Thank you to those who provided useful input to my original report of the problem and to Scott and Brian for going that extra mile to figuring this out. Awesome support!
So, other than Brian trying to find out why, I'd say this thread can be closed and any new issues can be reported in a proper new thread. Thank you to those who provided useful input to my original report of the problem and to Scott and Brian for going that extra mile to figuring this out. Awesome support!
Well I just ran into the same issue. DMX741 won't let the MHD talk to the VBox 7. Fortunately I got the free tone switch with a mHD I ordered the first time so I can fix it. Just hate climbing on that steep roof.
