The local electric company (PG&E) managed to fry my Amiko 8240 that I use to receive PBS on AMC-1. So I'm looking for recommendations for a replacement. The Amiko 8250+ seems promising. I don't need fancy features, just HDMI out. I'm looping through a Chaparral 90 for LNB power (I've had a system since 1985). Where can I purchase new equipment? I don't see any US sources.
AMIKO Need replacement for Amiko 8240
- Thread starter MarcK
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It looks like the HD.265 doesn't have the loop-through connection for powering the LNB from the Chaparral. Is the LNB power compatible with the old Norsat LNBs? How about the IF frequencies?
I have never observed a tuner loop-through used to power a LNB power with a legacy IRD.
Typically, if the LNB is to be powered by a legacy receiver, use a one port port passing splitter with the powered leg connected to the legacy IRD.
LNB IFs are between 950-2150MHz. Completely compatible for all FTA receivers.
Typically, if the LNB is to be powered by a legacy receiver, use a one port port passing splitter with the powered leg connected to the legacy IRD.
LNB IFs are between 950-2150MHz. Completely compatible for all FTA receivers.
As I said, this is an old system. It looks like I can just power the LNB by setting the polarization to H. The dish has a polarotor on it, which I'll still power from the Chaparral via twisted pair. Thanks.
to SatelliteGuys MarcK !!If you are dedicating this to PBS only, no worries, but please understand these new receivers do not have a polarotor output control.
I just got one of these from KE4EST. Love it. Nice video quality, audio is great and very easy set up.
And they are incredibly reliable. I have the HD.265 and an RE and they run 24/7 with no issues.
That's great for me because mine never shuts off unless the power's off. It was the easiest receiver to program I've every used. Got it about 1:30 PM Saturday, had it installed, programmed and watching TV in less that 45 minutes, and that's knowing absolutely nothing about it.
Yep, this is the reason I carry this one. Very reliable and stable. I also use two myself that stay on 24/7. They are not the fanciest receiver out there but they just work and work and work. 
I've ordered the HD265. If I ever decide to channel surf again I'll order a stand-alone dish mover and change all the LNBs to the type that are voltage-controlled polarity. Until then, the Chaparral Monterey 90 is putting out the polarotor voltage. PBS has been making noises that they want to discontinue the C-band feed, but it is so much better than the refried DirecTV feeds that I want to keep it going as long as possible.
Another option is an inexpensive cosmetic 2nd, Titanium Satellite ASC1 for $135 including free shipping. Keep your quality feedhorn, LNBs and servo polarity motor. The ASC1 works automatically with the satellite receiver to position the dish and select polarity as you change channels. Only have a few discounted units, but usually have 2 or 3 each year.
My local electric utility fried one of mine last year. Since then I've upgraded my outlet surge protection and added "whole home surge protection" to two main electric panels.
I have APC UPS units with dual batteries on both of my receivers. Actually had a power outage early this morning and those puppies kept everything nice and constant.
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There's a certain danger in having two panels as they can be at different potentials causing things that are wired across panels to see unexpected voltages between them.
harshness, I found in researching the what-surge-protection-to-do subject to be rather daunting. I've also talked to one long-time electrician that wasn't knowledgeable on the subject beyond installing a surge device. More to your comment, two panels are a more common setup for manufactured homes--one inside the home as a distribution point and one outside the home at the pole as a main--which is my setup.
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I was speaking of having two breaker panels as opposed to a main switch and a breaker panel. My main switch and meter are on a utility pole so that the home can be removed without having to have the power company come out and remove the meter. The service panel has its own main switch so I don't have to run to the pole to shut everything off.
Once inside the "structure" things are much more likely to be at the same potential but if things are coming from multiple directions, watch out.
harshness, that's one part of the daunting understanding of surge protection I had. What structurally makes a main box a main box? Two buidlings I had wired by an electrician have what look to me like distribution breaker boxes as a main--multiple slots for circuits, one acting as a main switch. Besides acting as a main switch in the main line, I've only added one circuit breaker to a surge device. One building I asked to have a whole-home-outdoor surge protector installed at the same time as initial power hook up and what was professionally installed looks to me like a distribution box, multiple slots for circuits, one acting as a main switch. Another way I've seen it dones by a power utility is install a surge device wired to the meter--no switch required, as a Type 1 Surge Protection Device (SPD).
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I have a UPS on the TV circuits, mostly to keep the DirecTV box from resetting. But in this case an internal fault interrupter in the UPS tripped, and I had to completely shut off the UPS to reset it. Not a common occurrance, but at least all the other bits are still running. I'm not sure what happened before the UPS tripped.
A UPS is great for protecting the equipment from power problems. Just make sure to periodically check the batteries as they only have a certain life span. The life span can be short or long depending on the number of charge/discharge cycles they go through as well as age
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