new install.. wireless Joey signal strength at 12... need to go wired?

There ya go, current price is $30. Like I had mentioned though, it was $99 at release. I haven't had to deal with selling one or even waiving one since 2012 early 2013.
 
So I gave him a call, and he then called up his chain for ideas, and the initial idea that came back down was to try swapping the Hopper + WAP with the nearer WJ from the 2nd floor... ie. that will place the Hopper + WAP in the middle. I'm willing to give that a go myself (easy enough to move the gear around) ... will see how that improves signal strengths. Only potential issue will be if the Hopper is loud at night.

Hopper really should be placed on the most used TV if possible to have PIP/Swap functionality, Bluetooth, and the best possible performance. I wouldn't compromise on placement over the wireless issue unless there is no other option.
 
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Just so everyone knows for future reference, the signal strength for the Wireless Joey must be at 45 or higher in order to have good service. Anything below 45 would not be satisfactory and should not be installed. Also know that there can be a 10 point fluctuation in signal strength depending on certain factors. You can try increasing the strength by moving the WAP and Wireless Joey closer together or by trying what others have suggested here.
 
Hopper really should be placed on the most used TV if possible to have PIP/Swap functionality, Bluetooth, and the best possible performance. I wouldn't compromise on placement over the wireless issue unless there is no other option.

hmmm... killjoy :)

so I did the re-arrangement.. I end up with a ~50 on both WJ's now, with the Hopper located at the middle location (MBR)... took maybe 7 minutes.. and that was b/c I had to go back for a wrench to loosen the coax.

I haven't investigated the various bells and whistles... ie. is PiP only on the Hopper (not the WJ) ? what is anyone doing with Bluetooth (other than maybe streaming music?)

thanks,
Mike
 
I have used I maybe 5 times. Ever. And it's usually when I am watching wrestling(I have no life or standards. Lol). It truly is almost useless to be a selling feature but some people will want it for their sports, so it should be atleast mentioned as a side note if the conversation directs itself that way.
 
For me, it's not so much about PIP, which I rarely if ever use, but swap functionality. I wouldn't live without the ability to pause/swap/pause.

For the OP, Bluetooth is used to connect to a Bluetooth enabled soundbar, headphones, or similar. Again, a rather limited feature, but if you want/need it then place the equipment accordingly.

The "middle" room may be the best place for the Hopper, if so great, leave it be. If not, since you already have coax at the "middle" location, then dropping in a HIC for the WAP should be simple.

My opinion is if the original location is the most used and best for the Hopper, don't compromise - keep the Hopper at the original location and get a HIC while in the time window to get it free. You will be paying Dish thousands of dollars over the years, get things set up best for the long haul.
 
for almost all hopper installs I do the customer doesnt care about pip.
and I think that is a reason why you dont see it as a feature anymore on tvs.
It is a feature on TV's today, for OTA and input. It seems PIP for two or more HDMI's is still expensive compared to the legacy CATV and NTSC. However, the TV makers can NOT have the TV tune to Cable Labs Spec for Cable Cos. and FiOS, IPTV for AT&T Uverse, and DirecTV's mult-platform (DSS and Digicypher) for both SD and HD (DVB MPEG), and Dish for its single platform (DVB), and do this economically. And now Dish is changing to all 8PSK, so that would make even a fantasy HDTV that could decode Dish signals useless for such a PIP.

While many seem not to be aware or use it, I've come across more people than I thought who use the PIP, especially sports fans.
 
It is a feature on TV's today, for OTA and input. It seems PIP for two or more HDMI's is still expensive compared to the legacy CATV and NTSC. However, the TV makers can NOT have the TV tune to Cable Labs Spec for Cable Cos. and FiOS, IPTV for AT&T Uverse, and DirecTV's mult-platform (DSS and Digicypher) for both SD and HD (DVB MPEG), and Dish for its single platform (DVB), and do this economically. And now Dish is changing to all 8PSK, so that would make even a fantasy HDTV that could decode Dish signals useless for such a PIP.

While many seem not to be aware or use it, I've come across more people than I thought who use the PIP, especially sports fans.
did not know that but I am going to say that a majority of paid video users are not ota users..
 
did not know that but I am going to say that a majority of paid video users are not ota users..
I understand your point. I just wanted to highlight that TV makers today just can't and won't spend the HUGE amount of money to have their TV with a PIP feature OTHER than OTA and INPUT because they would essentially have to build a TV that has a built-in DirecTV box and a Dish box (DircTV and Dish have incompatible platforms or same platforms but for different uses) and a IPTV box for Uverse and for cable going all digital, the TV's would have to be able to decrypt the stream, and why would a consumer pay extra up-front and per month for an additional Cable Card that TV makers have NOT provided any support for in YEARS just to have his TV do PIP when the cable and sat boxes do it with the channels they watch. The ONLY economical way HDTV's today provide PIP (and a good many mid to high end ones do) is PIP with OTA and one of the inputs. As the cost of PIP for TWO HDMI's come down, we may see that, but while at least SOME use their MVPD boxes for PIP, hardly anyone uses their HDTV's PIP feature. And I for one have used PIP on a few of my HDTV's but only because I am using those connections.