For any large dish, a pole mount is the only way to go.
Bury the pole with concrete at least six inches below the frost line. This does not mean that the pole hase to extend below the frost line; just the concrete.
Depending on the type of soil, you will need 20 pounds or concrete or up to 80 pounds. If the soil is very very hard sand or clay, you will need less concrete.
If you can get one, get a power auger or an auger called a Seymour Iwan Auger. These are rotary tools, which allow you to "drill" a precise deep hole to avoid using a lot of concrete. A deep hole is better and will require a lesser diameter than a shallow hole. I've installed DirecWay 2-3/8" poles with a four inch auger "drilled" into the ground 36 inches with 30 pounds of concrete. Like a long lever arm, it was very very sturdy.
Get a one inch grey PVC conduit 90 degree sweep bend. Using a narrow garden trowel, dig a 3 inch wide notch in the side of the hole at the surface to allow running the cables protected up the side of the pole.
Place a $1 tail pipe clamp over the pole so that it will be buried about one foot from the surface with the pole installed in the hole.
Mix the concrete really dry, with only enough water to get it all wet.
Place the pole into the hole with the end open. Never place the pole into wet concrete. The bottom of the pole needs to be open. Pain water in a pole that does not escape will rust it out quickly.
Plumb the pole and check it often as you place the concrete. Using the garden trowel, place the concrete into the hole, while tamping it down hard with a stick around the side of the pole. Pound it with a sledge hammer as you check it for plumb and pack the sides with concrete. If you've used a narrow small diameter hole, the post will have become very very rigid, so that the dish can be safely mounted within a hour or so.
When you reach the level of the bottom of the notch for the conduit, place the sweep ell and pack the concrete around it.
This is the best way to install a pole.
Bury the pole with concrete at least six inches below the frost line. This does not mean that the pole hase to extend below the frost line; just the concrete.
Depending on the type of soil, you will need 20 pounds or concrete or up to 80 pounds. If the soil is very very hard sand or clay, you will need less concrete.
If you can get one, get a power auger or an auger called a Seymour Iwan Auger. These are rotary tools, which allow you to "drill" a precise deep hole to avoid using a lot of concrete. A deep hole is better and will require a lesser diameter than a shallow hole. I've installed DirecWay 2-3/8" poles with a four inch auger "drilled" into the ground 36 inches with 30 pounds of concrete. Like a long lever arm, it was very very sturdy.
Get a one inch grey PVC conduit 90 degree sweep bend. Using a narrow garden trowel, dig a 3 inch wide notch in the side of the hole at the surface to allow running the cables protected up the side of the pole.
Place a $1 tail pipe clamp over the pole so that it will be buried about one foot from the surface with the pole installed in the hole.
Mix the concrete really dry, with only enough water to get it all wet.
Place the pole into the hole with the end open. Never place the pole into wet concrete. The bottom of the pole needs to be open. Pain water in a pole that does not escape will rust it out quickly.
Plumb the pole and check it often as you place the concrete. Using the garden trowel, place the concrete into the hole, while tamping it down hard with a stick around the side of the pole. Pound it with a sledge hammer as you check it for plumb and pack the sides with concrete. If you've used a narrow small diameter hole, the post will have become very very rigid, so that the dish can be safely mounted within a hour or so.
When you reach the level of the bottom of the notch for the conduit, place the sweep ell and pack the concrete around it.
This is the best way to install a pole.
