Portable EA 1000.4 2019 issues.

If he's pointed at 77, then the 61 is 15.5 degrees off. That would be a significant sniff. You may be right though. Like you, I've been rv'ing with a 1000.4 and both lnb's for several years. Some crazy stuff has happened.
I'd agree if he was only getting 77, but the fact that he's getting 72.7 as well suggests he is aimed right. I have been in locations where I could only get 72.7 and 77, but that was due to tree cover and doesn't appear to be the case here.
 
Thanks, but my understanding of the 0.4 EA dish is once checkswitch is cleared and saved, the only LNB active is the 72.7 as long as the coax is connected to port #2?

I had actually thought about looking for 61.5 with the 72 or 77 LNBs just to confirm the 61.5 LNB is dead, never got around to it.
It doesn't matter which of the 3 ports you're connected to. They're all the same. The way to tell is to cover the lenses on the all but the last "eye" to the right if you're standing behind the dish with tin foil. That's the eye that "sees" the 61.5, and then try to point it in
 
It doesn't matter which of the 3 ports you're connected to. They're all the same. The way to tell is to cover the lenses on the all but the last "eye" to the right if you're standing behind the dish with tin foil. That's the eye that "sees" the 61.5, and then try to point it in

I didn't know they were all the same, thanks. I believe I read somewhere a long time ago that once you run check switch on the 211K with nothing connected, then connect to port 2 on the 1000.4 the only "eye" that would then be powered would be for 72.7 and would eliminate the chance of mixing them up. I thought the switch would be inoperative until running check switch after peaking. The same with my WA LNB, but those ports are crossed, Port 1 for 119. Port 2 for 110?

Anyhow I did think along those lines. After I did the last peaking in the 90 degree heat and was only getting 72 and 77 after running check switch, I took a hunk of foil and made sure the center eye was the one hitting 72.7

Here's a question, the eye on the right for 61.5 with the round white plastic cover as opposed to the oblong one for 72/77. Should I be able to twist that round white cover around and around or should it be glued on there solid?
After Dutch's post I drilled a small hole through that cover, no water, but noticed when doing so I can spin it.
 
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I didn't know they were all the same, thanks. I believe I read somewhere a long time ago that once you run check switch on the 211K with nothing connected, then connect to port 2 on the 1000.4 the only "eye" that would then be powered would be for 72.7 and would eliminate the chance of mixing them up. I thought the switch would be inoperative until running check switch after peaking. The same with my WA LNB, but those ports are crossed, Port 1 for 119. Port 2 for 110?

Anyhow I did think along those lines. After I did the last peaking in the 90 degree heat and was only getting 72 and 77 after running check switch, I took a hunk of foil and made sure the center eye was the one hitting 72.7

Here's a question, the eye on the right for 61.5 with the round white plastic cover as opposed to the oblong one for 72/77. Should I be able to twist that round white cover around and around or should it be glued on there solid?
After Dutch's post I drilled a small hole through that cover, no water, but noticed when doing so I can spin it.
It's just a cover. I have a feeling it's only protective from the elements
 
It's just a cover. I have a feeling it's only protective from the elements
Exactly... I've tested LNB's that were dropped and broke one or more of the covers. With the broken plastic cleared away some of them continued to work ok. Others had enough other damage that they failed, at least in part, but not due to the missing covers.
 
I guess I am going to find out this evening.

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And Interestingly Fedex evidently knows what a PITA this situation, or perhaps myself, has been.

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Yes Sir, EA.

The sweet smell of success, well not really a smell.


Thanks for all the comments, advice, etc.

Just replaced the LNB while clearing the receiver, ran check switch.......Hello.

On the shot above port 4 shows N/C. The bad LNB showed CONN under 61.5? I assume N/C is no connection. What is CONN?
 
That means the port is connected to a lnbf. (but it isn't receiving a signal)

Thanks,

So about half a dozen peaking sessions in the sun on 90 degree days, each time dragging 125' of extension cord, the receiver, and a 7" TV down through the woods, and $62 and change with the shipping being almost half. Life is good.

LOL..... A little bit of work fixing something that a certain whackjob on a run down RV forum will beat your ears off spewing that DN will be out of business in two years, thanks to Elon Musk and Starlink.
 
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So with AOTA aside, how does one get one of these 1000.4 LNBF's apart? The two halves of the cast metal housing seem to be press fit together? I have to dissect this thing, just got to do it. I know, I know, no user serviceable parts inside lol.

I'm curious as to what makes one of these crap out that was used maybe a total of less than a full year over 7 years? It's used about 6 or 7 times per year for a week or two at a time. No real moving parts. Bouncing around in the RV? Over and over setups, Mr Murphy?

Just chatted with Dish and had locals set back to Pittsburgh since I took an Oinker from work. Curious to know if all is back to status quo. --------- and it is, Pgh locals fine as always was the case before.
 
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