Same here. I wound up giving myself a blister wrenching all the fittings on. I figure the worst that happens now is the maybe I didn't get a good termination and the installer has to re-terminate the run from my patch panel to the Hopper.
RG6 Cabling Requirements for Hopper vs DPP
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Same here. I wound up giving myself a blister wrenching all the fittings on. I figure the worst that happens now is the maybe I didn't get a good termination and the installer has to re-terminate the run from my patch panel to the Hopper.
I'm confused now, my wiring was ran almost 6 years ago & currently runs my 622. I have a hopper & 2 joey installation scheduled for 11:30 am tomorrow. So ya'll are telling me the installer will have to replace all the wiring in my house?
Not all the wiring, possibly some of it. The most critical run of cable is between the node and the hopper. Installers will be required to verify it is Rg6 rated @ 3Ghz or higher. If not they are supposed to replace it. All other cable runs need to be rated at 1Ghz or higher.
I hope the installer knows what they're doing because I'm their 1st install. I will check this out tonight.
So, I've checked my cables. Two cables go from the Dish to a Grounding bar to a wall plate to my 922 receiver. The only part of that cable run that is labelled is between the grounding bar and the wall plate and that is marked as RG6 2.25 Ghz. If the most important part is between the Node and the Hopper, can I have the node put in between the wall plate and the Hopper? I'm getting just a single Hopper and no Joeys.
I think the requirement is pretty strict, so Dish will probably replace the whole cable run when the Hopper is installed.
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Due to vaulted ceilings in the entire house except for over the kitchen, bathrooms and garage, I've got mostly just a 3-foot crawl space. Add to that my claustrophobia, and there is NO WAY I'd be doing any cable runs myself. I don't know how you guys do it. 
10 years ago I used my teenage son who was half my size. Now, I'm half his size. I rely on lots of cool gadgets that allow me to get cable pulled pretty much everywhere I need to get it pulled.
You've got to be willing to make cuts in Sheetrock and repair it. And drill. And sweat in attics.
I've read a few posts that say 3Ghz rated RG6 cable is only required between the nodes and the Hoppers. I was watching a training video from 3/13 on the Dish Portal website this morning. The trainer stated that "All" RG6 between the Dish and the Hopper must be rated at 3Ghz or higher. I haven't seen this requirement in print anywhere, but was told this at our Hopper/Joey training classes last week.
It is Dish policy that all RG6 needs to be high-quality, 3 GHZ-rated. However, from a technical view, the 3 GHZ signal is generated by stacking within the Nodes. So the only 3 GHZ signal needing to be passed via coax is between the Node and Hopper(s).
if anyone has a tech that's ok with using some older unmarked RG6, please post back on the results of the install. I'm still guessing short runs of unmarked RG6 in good condition will be ok, but am curious what most techs are doing in general (in the field). Realistically it doesn't cost much more time to try it as worst case you just run one or two more wires in the end.
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I will be doing a self-install and let you know how it works for me. Will be probably a week or so before the hardware arrives.
I have a E83032 f6ssvv 18AWG Quad Shield RG6 Commscope from Comcast installed in my entire house, thinking of getting my 722K VIP and 211K replaced in May when my contract expires. Not sure if it's rated 3 GHZ as it is about 8 years old, but I hope it works as there is no way I'll will allow any cable runs outside my house. If someone was able to test it with non 3 GHZ RG6 cable please post the results. Thanks.
As I have stated earlier in this thread, the only portion of the coax that will ever need to pass 3GHZ is between the Node and the Hopper. The shorter that length of coax is, the better the chances that even old RG6 will work. Only way to shorten that length of coax is to mount the Node inside the house, as close as you can get to your Hopper(s).
Well i had 2 Hoppers/2 Joeys installed today. They seemed pretty insistent that we at least get the hoppers on properly rated cable. I wasn't going to argue and we kind of came up with a plan to only use the home distribution for the joeys.
A combination of my knowledge sourced from this forum and the tech's experience, my install was taken care of with new Channelmaster 3ghz rated RG6 hopper runs.
We basically swapped some room locations between the two hoppers and two joeys that i wanted. Basically the hoppers moved to rooms that were closer to the dish and allowed them to minimize running too much wire on the siding.
There were already three existing satellite lines that went inside to the home distribution where the old DPP44 switch was located so that took care of all the joeys. We basically placed the node where these three lines penetrated the house as it was a pretty concealed location behind the air conditioning. Then ran two new lines outside to the closest rooms to that node so that as little visible wire was run as possible to the hopper locations.
For right now i'm not messing with my setup by doing any experimenting, so that puts off any of my initial worries about reusing 20+ year old RG6 for now. However when OTA is ready, i may move a hopper to a room that has an antenna run to the attic. Basically what i can do is use that extra line that's going to the home distribution for a hopper and connect it up.
For me, this was the better play although i supervised the heck out of the wall penetrations and they measured a few times to make sure it was done perfect. In the long run, i'll now have extra runs of that old RG6 from the home distribution to those same hopper locations. That should work out nicely for mirroring purposes (in the event i need to cut costs).
A combination of my knowledge sourced from this forum and the tech's experience, my install was taken care of with new Channelmaster 3ghz rated RG6 hopper runs.
We basically swapped some room locations between the two hoppers and two joeys that i wanted. Basically the hoppers moved to rooms that were closer to the dish and allowed them to minimize running too much wire on the siding.
There were already three existing satellite lines that went inside to the home distribution where the old DPP44 switch was located so that took care of all the joeys. We basically placed the node where these three lines penetrated the house as it was a pretty concealed location behind the air conditioning. Then ran two new lines outside to the closest rooms to that node so that as little visible wire was run as possible to the hopper locations.
For right now i'm not messing with my setup by doing any experimenting, so that puts off any of my initial worries about reusing 20+ year old RG6 for now. However when OTA is ready, i may move a hopper to a room that has an antenna run to the attic. Basically what i can do is use that extra line that's going to the home distribution for a hopper and connect it up.
For me, this was the better play although i supervised the heck out of the wall penetrations and they measured a few times to make sure it was done perfect. In the long run, i'll now have extra runs of that old RG6 from the home distribution to those same hopper locations. That should work out nicely for mirroring purposes (in the event i need to cut costs).
