Amiko D-8/1 question

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Look forward to hearing about and seeing some pics of your addition to your set-up. :)
 
KE4EST and I were PMing and he mentioned this thread and something that I also have suggested in the past. A 2x1 quality splitter.

STB>>> splitter. One leg of the splitter goes to the loop-through connected controllers, the other leg to the HH100 then to the switch and LNBs.

That will save more than a few dBs in coax loss!
Well, I went ahead and purchased a set of these on Amazon. They came and I figured I'd give one a try with my existing dishes to make sure everything works before changing/adding anything. It's a no-go. With one of these inline the motors don't move, there is no signal from either lnb and apparently it's not even passing the command to turn on the Vbox7 as I had to turn it on manually. :( Any other ideas?
PS: Tested splitter with our antenna to make sure I didn't just get some duds and they work fine for that.
 
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There must be something about the BAMF splitter that won't let it function. Rather than trying to find another one that doesn't block things, how about this?

Amazon product ASIN B000AS7DI4.
No circuitry, just a simple 1 in / 2 out split. What do you think? Also, has anyone else tried the splitter method mentioned by Titanium and KE4EST? What did you use to get it to work? Thanks! :)
 
I've been curiously watching this thread...

Trying something similar and using an RCA splitter labeled as dual port with all-port power passing, the splitter would only pass power one way.

With the RCA, if the LNBF was tied to the center port and the receiver was on either leg, it would work. If the receiver was connected to the center port and the LNBF on either leg, then it wouldn't pass power. Although described as a splitter, it actually worked more as a combiner (in my thinking).

Looking into something similar (actually external power to an HH-120 shown here), there is a bit of discussion on this matter that might be useful for you:
http://www.satelliteguys.us/xen/thr...ators-in-line-amps.198946/page-2#post-2070036
http://www.satelliteguys.us/xen/threads/naughty-mods-i-dg-380-separate-drive-power.174799/
http://www.satelliteguys.us/xen/threads/motor-and-spliter.198253/#post-2060630
 
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I've been curiously watching this thread...

Trying something similar and using an RCA splitter labeled as dual port with all-port power passing, the splitter would only pass power one way.

With the RCA, if the LNBF was tied to the center port and the receiver was on either leg, it would work. If the receiver was connected to the center port and the LNBF on either leg, then it wouldn't pass power. Although described as a splitter, it actually worked more as a combiner (in my thinking).

Looking into something similar (actually external power to an HH-120 shown here), there is a bit of discussion on this matter that might be useful for you:
http://www.satelliteguys.us/xen/thr...ators-in-line-amps.198946/page-2#post-2070036
http://www.satelliteguys.us/xen/threads/naughty-mods-i-dg-380-separate-drive-power.174799/
http://www.satelliteguys.us/xen/threads/motor-and-spliter.198253/#post-2060630
Thanks for the info - got some reading to do. Will do some more experimenting tomorrow and post back results. :)
 
Some splitters have diode steering to prevent back flow. The switch will have an arrow on the powered leg if it has a diode. If the powered leg does not have an arrow, there is no diode and voltage will flow both directions.

Splitters are available in both flavors, but the diode steered are most common.
 
APPP (All Port Power Passing) diode steered with voltages flowing as the arrows point. From two ports to the single port. This would not be the correct splitter to power two devices from one source.
 
I should have known that even though the ones I suggested don't show arrows, they would be diode steered toward the out jacks.

The plain T-splitter: The only thing that bothers me about this, is if it is just plain and no circuitry what so ever, the impedance will be off.
 
I should have known that even though the ones I suggested don't show arrows, they would be diode steered toward the out jacks.
The BAMF's didn't go to waste - I replaced the cheap splitter we were using for our antenna with one of these and it works fine (and I'll have a spare for something else.) :)
The plain T-splitter: The only thing that bothers me about this, is if it is just plain and no circuitry what so ever, the impedance will be off.

Worth a shot I guess. Gonna look around the parts bins first to see what I can come up with and try to experiment today. Will post any results. :)
 
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I tried a few things today. First, I hooked the receiver output to one of the outputs of the BAMF (instead of the input) similar to what Jason S had tried. I swapped the connectors both ways. One configuration gave me nothing, with the other I was only able to get the c band to work, ku would not. Next I tried a cheap splitter (only 5-900MHz). Again, the c band would work but nothing on ku side. Rather than ordering the splitter I mentioned in post #26 and waiting to try that, I took three pieces of quality coax, put compression connectors on one end of each and exposed the center conductor and shield (braid) on the other end. Put them together in a sort of triangle, twisted all the center conductors together, twisted all the shields together and wrapped them up nice with electric tape. Hooked one connector to the receiver, one to the Vbox7 and the other to an old diseqc switch I had with the ku motor/lnb on one port and the c band lnb on another. Plugged everything back in and I was able to switch to both ku and c band channels and move both dishes without a problem. Still need to try it down at the dishes with a D-8/1 after the ku motor but looking good so far! :)
 
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Here's a pic of the test hookup (thumbnailed). :)
100_2913_Sized.JPG
 
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It's a no-go. With one of these inline the motors don't move, there is no signal from either lnb and apparently it's not even passing the command to turn on the Vbox7 as I had to turn it on manually. :( Any other ideas?

Problem with "all ports power pass splitters", I guess, is that the power pass for the two ports is ONE WAY (the wrong way for your setup). Though the signal pass is indeed two way.

If you can open such a splitter and change the direction of the diodes, it should work. [That is, if you use unidirectional diseqc (1.x), and not bidirectional diseqc (2.x), which could create problems with the return-signalling in your setup?]

I don't know if there are splitters available which do exactly what you want. For testing, you could use a simple T-piece, though your impedance would be compromised (or how do you say in english?). But if it works, it works!;)

Greetz, A33

Edit: Ah! You've just done what I suggested! I was too late in posting....

Edit 2: Oh no, even worse: I didn't notice there was a page 2 to this thread...:facepalm. Sorry...
 
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Throwing this out here...

Doing additional research, I found this. I thought it might be a 'correct' splitter and have one on the way.
Splitter.jpg
The diagram on the splitter shows the flow in the correct direction. I have no idea if that is actually the case though.
 
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