Cband Hookup - The problems mount.

[iBoston]

Here is an email i sent Titanium :

Okay, so I have WIMAX turned off so i can get this all tuned and hooked up. I had posted about some sensor issues with the motor. I hooked in the capacitor as you suggested. I got everything all nice and wired, and then ASC1 is telling me 'Sensor Error? Blockage?' etc. Long story short, i have completely reverted and got the asc outside with a short cable and I'm still getting the same darn error. Now, when i clear the error, and i hit the east/west button, it moves the dish a bit and then re-gives me the error... What the heck is going on? Something with the ASC, Something with the Actuator?

So, anyone have any thoughts? I had this motor working just find this morning with exception to the sensor ticks not keeping track. So, i got the capacitor and changed the wiring to a shielded wire for the sensor. This is when the problem started, and completely reverting back is not solving the problem!

 

[Titanium]

Check the rewire was done correctly, global reset and test the sensor as described in the message reply.

 

[iBoston]

Check the rewire was done correctly, global reset and test the sensor as described in the message reply.

Did a global reset. Wires are wired correctly.

Check the rewire was done correctly, global reset and test the sensor as described in the message reply.

I hooked up to a 12 volt PC power supply. I hooked the sensor wires to an OHM meter. Besides moving quite slowly, which i would expect, the OHM meter held at 1.0 and never fluctuated...

Did the act of adding the capacitor fry it or was this just amazing timing? I assume this means the actuator is now toast?

 

[Titanium]

If the switch is not open/closing as the actuator moves, it is stuck and likely failed. Not unheard of if it hasn't been used in awhile. This pending failure could have been a reason the counter wasn't accurate. Try tapping the reed switch with a screwdriver handle to free the reed.

Correct me if I am wrong,but didn't you add a capacitor to the motor terminals on the actuator? How would a capacitor on the motor affect or "fry" the switch operation? Two different circuits. Unless the capacitor was installed or wires connected between the wrong terminals on the actuator?

Easy to fry a sensor with motor and sensor leads reversed. Done it several times myself during service calls.

 

[iBoston]

If the switch is not open/closing as the actuator moves, it is stuck and likely failed. Not unheard of if it hasn't been used in awhile. This pending failure could have been a reason the counter wasn't accurate. Try tapping the reed switch with a screwdriver handle to free the reed.

Correct me if I am wrong,but didn't you add a capacitor to the motor terminals on the actuator? How would a capacitor on the motor affect or "fry" the switch operation? Two different circuits. Unless the capacitor was installed or wires connected between the wrong terminals on the actuator?

Easy to fry a sensor with motor and sensor leads reversed. Done it several times myself during service calls.

I didn't cross any wires. I have the motor wires on a separate cable then the sensor wires. I hooked up the capacitor to the red/black wire coming out of the motor.

MOTOR
+.......... -
|........... |
+---[]---|
|....cap..|
|............|
+ ASC1 -

Does it matter the order of the sensor wires?

I put in an order for a 24 inch actuator.

 

[iBoston]

I parked it on SES2 and ill leave it there until i get the new actuator. I was truly hoping to have it all done today.

 

[Titanium]

S1 and s2 wires may be connected to either sensor wire.

The actuator motor is working fine? Why not just replace the sensor? Less than $10 shipped on Ebay.

 

[iBoston]

S1 and s2 wires may be connected to either sensor wire.

The actuator motor is working fine? Why not just replace the sensor? Less than $10 shipped on Ebay.

Doing searches, not finding anything Keyword Actuator Sensor isn't getting me anywhere.

 

[Titanium]

Looks like it isn't relisted yet. You might try messaging.

http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=111444325289

 

[boba]

Have you tried searching for a reed switch?

 

[iBoston]

Thank you for that Titanium. I sent him a message.

 

[primestar31]

When you changed the sensor wire to a shielded one, did you use a wire for one side, and then ONLY the shield wire for the other side of the sensor?

If so, that's not correct. The sensor should have 2 actual wires going to it. The braided shield wire itself then gets attached to a bare screw inside the actuator motor, to ground it to the case. It does NOT get hooked to the wires going to the sensor itself, where it would be electrically hot.

Think of it as sorta now having a 3 wire sensor.

At the receiver end in your house, you just cut back the shield wire a little so it can't touch or short to anything, and do NOT hook it up to anything, just leave it hanging in the air (more or less).

 

[iBoston]

When you changed the sensor wire to a shielded one, did you use a wire for one side, and then ONLY the shield wire for the other side of the sensor?

If so, that's not correct. The sensor should have 2 actual wires going to it. The braided shield wire itself then gets attached to a bare screw inside the actuator motor, to ground it to the case. It does NOT get hooked to the wires going to the sensor itself, where it would be electrically hot.

Think of it as sorta now having a 3 wire sensor.

At the receiver end in your house, you just cut back the shield wire a little so it can't touch or short to anything, and do NOT hook it up to anything, just leave it hanging in the air (more or less).

Yes, that is how it was hooked up. Good explanation thou.

 

[primestar31]

Do you have a digital multimeter handy? If so, hook a short piece of wire to the sensor, and connect the meter probes to each side. Set the meter to checking for resistance (Ohms scale) Then use a magnet, and slide it across the sensor back and forth. All the sensor is, is a magnetic switch that opens and closes as it senses the magnetic field. It should have clearly defined open and close intervals as you move the magnet close to the sensor switch, and then remove it.

Sometimes the switch leaves inside fuse together (permanent short), or conversely don't make a connection (permanent open).

I know this is all very frustrating, but think of it as trial by fire. Once you have it all done, you will be much more expert and next time it won't phase you at all, lol.

 

[iBoston]

Yea, ill try and open the back. The screws are fairly well rusted. Your right, it is frustrating. Especially when I just finished jumping the hurdle of my interference issue. But hey, at least i know this is all gonna work now. Just making baby steps. I NEED to get this done before the snow starts falling here. We measure snow here in FEET.

 

[iBoston]

Okay i opened the back. Of-course, i had to drill one of the screws out. At-least my luck is consistent. It seems to be a faulty switch. It is very hit and miss on when it wants to operate. I tried a lower power magnet and a higher power magnet. Lower power magnet didn't even effect the switch. The higher power magnet was very inconsistent. One in 5 times i could get an OHM change.

You know, I'm glad I had all this stuff. Grab a 12 volt power supply, grab a magnet, grab an OHM meter. Can you imagine the hell I'd be in if i didn't have any of that stuff...

 

[iBoston]

Okay, I am up and running. I can pull in from 55.5 to 139. However I could not get 137 to lock, but i could get 139 to lock. So, i need to fine tune a bit more. Is there a strong transponder on 137 that i could use to help dial that in. I am happy to not be parked at one satellite any more.

 

[T4Runner]

3760 H
DVB-S
QPSK
25195-3/4

 

[iBoston]

3760 H
DVB-S
QPSK
25195-3/4

Okay, and that's the one i want too..

 

[iBoston]

For some reason, the ASC1 interferes with some of the channels @87 degrees. I found a work around, i plugged in my Ecoda 22khz switch, and LNB runs to one port, ASC1 is off other port. Since Diseqc signals are sent down both pipes regardless of switch setting, it works perfectly. I did some fine tuning on the dish today. By the time i get down to 55.5 degrees I seem to still have a good signal.

Latina on 55.5 degrees 4142h4999 I have a level of 90 and a quality of 75. Tomorrow ill try and lock 137.